Carousel of Consumption: design and meaning of retail spaces as platforms for value co-creation in circular fashion systems

时尚业已经接受了循环经济(CE)，将其作为解决浪费、污染和资源稀缺等相互关联的问题的解决方案。这项研究通过调查这些假设在时尚零售服务场景中的实践情况，开始识别和询问CE商业模型中隐含的各种假设。CE文献主要关注生产问题，描述了新材料、产品、回收技术和商业模式的设计。到目前为止，提出的大多数方法都严重依赖于客户行为的改变(LofTower&Prendeille，2018；Kuzmina等人，2018；Hobson，2016)，没有考虑到他们作为消费系统中参与主体的复杂角色。对消费者行为的调查往往把重点放在与产品的互动上，而忽略了对身份表达、象征意义、获得和决策产生深刻影响的主导社会文化背景。从工业设计和管理文献发展而来的CE概念化是基于新古典经济和战略管理理论的推论。不幸的是，这些基础往往是隐含的，因此仍然不清楚。缺乏一个明确的理论模型来描述消费者和生产者之间的相互作用以及在企业中创造或维持价值。本研究通过对循环商业模式(CBMS)文献的批判性话语分析，提出了初步的研究结果。该分析考察了CE文献的修辞学，以发展“对主导话语(间接)影响这种社会共享的知识、态度和意识形态的方式的详细描述、解释和批评，即通过它们在制造具体模型中的作用”(Van Dijk，1993)。此外，它的目的是确定和阐明建立信任措施概念化所固有的假设，特别是与客户参与共同创造价值有关的假设。在这样做的过程中，作者的目的是明确CE概念中未阐明的理论假设，这是确定其连贯性、有效性和可行性的关键第一步。作者采用服务主导逻辑的视角，对企业价值创造理论进行了批判性的讨论。S-D逻辑提供了一种对市场价值的理解，它超越了效用和交换，包括现象学的主观意义(Vargo&Lusch，2015)。这一视角承认品牌塑造和文化影响对消费者行为的作用，这在时尚界尤为重要。强调主观意义的产生有助于进一步理解“制造废物”的文化过程，也就是客户自愿进行的价值破坏(Crocker，2016)。将与硕士设计专业的学生一起进行一项试点活动，通过外推CBM的隐含假设来构建CE零售时尚客户体验的假设情景。通过从理论到实践，我们开始评估它们是否适合在整个客户之旅中实现价值共同创造。初步的定性数据将从所提议的场景如何为客户参与创造障碍或机会的角度进行讨论。场景被进一步发展，并成为一个精心策划的圆形概念展览的一部分，供公众展示。公众将被邀请参与投机的客户之旅，并表达他们的想法和反应。这将形成主要的定性数据收集。这项研究的目的是证伪或验证已确定的假设或推论，这些假设或推论是关于模型的市场可行性、客户接受度和价值创造，这些都是CE话语和建立信任措施概念化所固有的。

The fashion industry has embraced the circular economy (CE) as a solution to interconnected problems of waste, pollution and resource scarcity. This research starts to identify and interrogate varied assumptions implicit in CE business models by investigating how these may play out in practice in fashion retail service scenarios. CE literature is largely focused on issues of production, describing design for new materials, products, recycling technologies and business models. Most approaches proposed so far heavily rely on customer behaviour change (Lofthouse & Prendeville, 2018; Kuzmina et al, 2018; Hobson, 2016), failing to consider their complex role as participating agents in consumption systems. Investigations into customer behaviour are often tightly focused on interactions with products, ignoring the dominant socio-cultural contexts which exert deep influence on expressions of identity, symbolic meaning, acquisition and decision-making. Developed from the industrial design and management literature, the CE conceptualisation is grounded in inferences from neoclassical economic and strategic management theory. Unfortunately, these foundations are often implied and therefore remain unarticulated. An explicit theoretical model which describes consumer-producer interactions and value creation or maintenance in the CE is lacking. This research presents initial findings from a critical discourse analysis of the literature on circular business models (CBMs). The analysis examines the rhetoric of CE literature to develop "a detailed description, explanation and critique of the ways dominant discourses (indirectly) influence such socially shared knowledge, attitudes and ideologies, namely through their role in the manufacture of concrete models" (Van Dijk, 1993). Further, it aims to identify and articulate assumptions inherent in the conceptualisation of CBMs, particularly in relation to customer participation in value co-creation. In doing so, the author aims to make explicit the unarticulated theoretical assumptions of the CE concept, a crucial first step in determining their coherence, validity and viability. The author adopts the lens of service-dominant logic to develop critical discussion of value creation theory in relation to the CE. S-D logic offers an understanding of market value which goes beyond utility and exchange to include phenomenological, subjective meaning (Vargo & Lusch, 2015). This lens acknowledges the role of branding and cultural influences on customer behaviour, which are of particular importance in fashion. Emphasising subjective meaning-making enables further understanding of the cultural process of "waste-making", or voluntary value destruction performed by the customer (Crocker, 2016). A pilot exercise will be conducted with Masters design students, in which implicit assumptions of CBMs are extrapolated to construct hypothetical scenarios for CE retail fashion customer experience. By going from theory to practice, we begin to evaluate their suitability to enable value co-creation throughout the customer journey. Initial qualitative data is discussed in terms of how the proposed scenarios create barriers or opportunities for customer participation. Scenarios are further developed and form part of a curated exhibition of circular concepts for public display. Members of the public will be invited to participate in the speculative customer journeys and express their thoughts and reactions. This will form the main qualitative data collection. The research aims to falsify or validate the identified assumptions or inferences about the market viability of the models, customer acceptance and value creation inherent in the CE discourse and conceptualisation of CBMs.