Socialist Dress Reform in Britain, 1880-1914

这项跨学科的研究探讨了1880-1914年间英国社会主义运动中对时尚、服装和纺织品的态度。在二十世纪之交，社会主义者对经济和道德实践进行了一场意识形态上的讨论，讨论涉及时尚和服装改革。尽管社会和政治历史学家对这一运动进行了广泛的研究，服装历史学家对服装改革运动也有长期的兴趣，但对这两场运动如何交叉的深入研究在很大程度上被忽视了。我的研究旨在纠正这一问题，并将利用服装、社会和政治历史来分析——并首次综合——各种各样的来源，如现存的服装、政治小册子、社会主义报纸、摄影、肖像、日记、自传和蜉蝣。这项研究将揭示一些具有政治动机的服装实践，服装改革与劳工和工会运动之间未被探索的联系，一系列社会主义裁缝、记者和时尚插画家，以及社会主义男女如何利用服装来构建社会主义身份。然而，最终，它将强调在历史和今天的政治抵抗和定位中理解服装，风格和物质文化的必要性。

This interdisciplinary research explores attitudes to fashion, dress and textiles in the British socialist movement, between 1880-1914. At the turn of the twentieth century, there was an ideologically inflected discussion of economic and ethical practice among socialists that was concerned with fashion and dress reform. Despite the extensive work by social and political historians on the movement, as well as the longstanding interest in the dress reform movement among dress historians, an in-depth examination of how these two movements intersected, has been largely overlooked. My research aims to redress this and will draw on dress, social and political history to analyse - and synthesise for the first time - a wide variety of sources such as extant garments, political pamphlets, socialist newspapers, photography, portraiture, diaries, autobiographies and ephemera. The research will shed light on several politically motivated dress practices, unexplored connections between dress reform and the labour and trades union movements, a range of socialist dressmakers, journalists and fashion illustrators, and how socialist men and women used dress to construct socialist identities. Ultimately, however, it will highlight the necessity of understanding dress, style and material culture in political resistance and positioning, both historically and today.