Between Diaspora and the 'Land of Israel': Jewish Dress, Migration and Belonging, 1880s-1948

在侨民和“以色列土地”之间：犹太服饰、移民和归属感，1880 年代至 1948 年

• 批准号: AH/X002950/1
• 负责人: Svenja Bethke
• 金额: $ 25.79万
• 依托单位: University of Leicester
• 依托单位国家: 英国
• 项目类别: Fellowship
• 财政年份: 2023
• 资助国家: 英国
• 起止时间: 2023 至 无数据
• 项目状态: 未结题
• 来源: https://gtr.ukri.org/projects?ref=AH%2FX002950%2F1
• 关键词: Between; Diaspora; Land; Israel; Jewish

In every society, dress expresses intimate feelings of belonging and identity. A focus on dress is especially rewarding when looking at migrant societies. In these, people from diverse countries and background often have very different ideas of how one should dress and why. This project looks at the role of ordinary immigrants in defining dress ideals. It investigates how a consensual mode of dress emerges in a migrant society where different ideas of what 'one should wear' and why, exist, and compete. It also examines how and when certain ways of dressing become 'fashionable' in a society.I will work closely with a postdoctoral Research Associate and Israeli and British project partners in the museums and heritage sector, to investigate three strands which are united in their themes of dress as an expression of belonging in times of migration. First, a monograph will look at dress in the historical migrant society in the 'Land of Israel'. It considers the period between the 1880s, when large scale Jewish migration to the region began, until 1948 when the Israeli state was founded. The project will investigate how Eastern European and German immigrants to the region expressed their identity through dress and how they were able to enforce ideal ways of dressing. It analyses visual, written, and oral sources to show how these migrant groups defined and perpetuated certain ways of dressing as 'appropriate', 'ideal' and 'national' in the new homeland. It also examines the influence of the dress habits of the local Arab population and the changing occupying Ottoman and British authorities on these dress ideals. The project looks at five different historical settings in which dress ideals and practices of different Jewish (migrant) groups conflicted: Europe in the 19th century, Ottoman Palestine (1882-1918), the urban sphere and textile industry of the British Mandate (1918-1948), the rural sphere of the British Mandate (1918-1948), and 'in transit' between Nazi-occupied Europe and the British Mandate (1934 - 1948). By looking at dress, this project will make the role of immigrants in nation building visible. This will help to understand processes of inclusion and exclusion in a migrant society with individuals from vastly different backgrounds.Second, the project will use this as starting point to build an innovative global collaborative research agenda and research team. I will run an international online conference and edit a book that will compare histories of dress and migration across the world. We will investigate how migrant groups expressed their feelings of belonging through dress and how migrant groups influenced dress ideals and 'fashion' globally. The third strand is an ambitious programme of engagement work with partner organisations from the heritage and museums sector in Israel and the UK. I will hold two workshops with these project partners, one in Jerusalem with the Yad Ben Zvi Institute, and one in Leicester with Leicester Museums and Galleries, which target migrant groups from the diverse populations in the two cities. In the workshops, participants will be invited to bring an item of dress or photographs of dress items. Through the lens of dress, we will explore their personal or their family's history of migration and heritage. A final fashion show will showcase selected participants and their stories of dress and migration. A professional photographer and videographer will document these activities and photographs and selected professionally produced videoclips will disseminate these activities through a website, a YouTube channel and Twitter account.

在每个社会中，服装都表达了一种亲密的归属感和身份感。在研究移民社会时，对着装的关注尤其有益。在这种情况下，来自不同国家和背景的人对应该如何穿着和为什么穿着有着非常不同的看法。这个项目着眼于普通移民在定义着装理想方面的作用。它调查了在一个移民社会中，人们对“一个人应该穿什么”以及为什么存在、竞争的不同想法是如何形成共识的着装模式的。它还研究了在一个社会中，某些穿衣方式如何以及何时变得“时尚”。我将与一名博士后研究助理以及博物馆和遗产部门的以色列和英国项目合作伙伴密切合作，研究在移民时代作为归属感表达的服装主题中结合在一起的三个方面。首先，一本专著将着眼于“以色列之地”历史移民社会的服装。它考虑了从19世纪80年代大规模犹太人移民到该地区开始到1948年以色列建国之间的这段时间。该项目将调查东欧和德国移民如何通过着装表达他们的身份，以及他们如何能够强制执行理想的着装方式。它分析了视觉、书面和口头资料，展示了这些移民群体如何在新的家园中定义和延续某些“合适”、“理想”和“民族”的着装方式。它还考察了当地阿拉伯人的着装习惯以及不断变化的占领奥斯曼帝国和英国当局对这些着装理想的影响。该项目着眼于五个不同的历史背景，其中不同的犹太（移民）群体的着装理念和实践发生了冲突：19世纪的欧洲，奥斯曼帝国的巴勒斯坦（1882-1918），英国托管的城市领域和纺织业（1918-1948），英国托管的农村领域（1918-1948），以及纳粹占领的欧洲和英国托管之间的“过境”（1934 -1948）。通过对服饰的观察，这个项目将让人们看到移民在国家建设中的作用。这将有助于了解移民社会中来自不同背景的个人的包容和排斥过程。第二，项目将以此为起点，构建创新的全球协同研究议程和研究团队。我将举办一个国际在线会议，并编辑一本书，比较世界各地的服装和移民历史。我们将调查移民群体如何通过服装表达他们的归属感，以及移民群体如何影响全球的服装理想和“时尚”。第三部分是与以色列和英国遗产和博物馆部门的合作伙伴组织合作的雄心勃勃的项目。我将与这些项目合作伙伴举办两次研讨会，一次在耶路撒冷与亚德·本·兹维研究所合作，另一次在莱斯特与莱斯特博物馆和画廊合作，针对来自这两个城市不同人口的移民群体。在工作坊中，参加者将被邀请携带一件礼服或礼服的照片。通过服装的镜头，我们将探索他们个人或家庭的移民和遗产的历史。最后的时装秀将展示选出的参与者以及他们的着装和移民故事。一名专业摄影师和摄像师将记录这些活动和照片，并精选专业制作的视频片段将通过网站、YouTube频道和推特帐户传播这些活动。