Breaking Waves: Their Kinematic Properties and Their Interaction with the Bottom

研究将涉及周期性的运动学性质， 破碎波及其与海底的相互作用。 波浪周期 振幅和底部坡度将被控制在一系列 在波浪水槽里做实验 前向散射双光束激光器 风速计将用于获取速度数据。 研究 结果与评估的力量，侵蚀，和损害， 沿着海岸线沿着破碎波浪。

The research will deal with the kinematic properties of periodic breaking waves and their interaction with the bottom. Wave period amplitude, and bottom slope will be controlled in a series of experiments in a wave tank. A forward scattering dual beam laser anemometer will be utilized to obtain velocity data. The research results are relevant to evaluation of forces, erosion, and damage due to breaking waves along the shore line.