Breaking Waves: Their Kinematic Properties and Their Interaction with the Bottom

研究将涉及周期性破碎波的运动学性质及其与底部的相互作用。波浪槽内的一系列实验将对波浪周期、振幅和底坡进行控制。利用前向散射双光束激光风速仪获取速度数据。研究结果与海岸破碎浪的力、侵蚀和破坏的评估有关。

The research will deal with the kinematic properties of periodic breaking waves and their interaction with the bottom. Wave period amplitude, and bottom slope will be controlled in a series of experiments in a wave tank. A forward scattering dual beam laser anemometer will be utilized to obtain velocity data. The research results are relevant to evaluation of forces, erosion, and damage due to breaking waves along the shore line.