CMG COLLABORATIVE RESEARCH: Wave Breaking Dissipation Modeling and Parametrization in Wave/Current Interactions

我们近岸的海滩侵蚀和污染、海啸和其他巨浪及其对海洋活动和低地洪水的影响、洋流和海洋热力交换：所有这些都是动态海洋过程的例子，就它们对我们的环境和人类活动的影响而言，具有明显的实际意义。以上已按时空尺度的递增顺序列出。科学已经能够单独地、利用尺度差异，对上述每个问题的某些关键特征有所了解。我们的总体目标是找到理解这些尺度之间相互作用的方法，因为很明显，上面提到的例子都是相互关联的。一个基本的多尺度相互作用是波和流的相互作用。我们的研究特别旨在开发这些复杂相互作用的模型，并通过这些模型同时了解许多尺度的海洋动力学。我们以过去的成功为基础，在这个问题上取得了新的进展：一个具体的理论推力是发现波浪破碎和耗散如何影响波浪和洋流，以及如何对它们进行建模。另一个理论要点是设计出一种方法，使现场数据能够补充模型，特别是由漂流器和基于路径的测量设备捕获的数据。在实践方面，我们正在重新审视经典问题，如离岸流和长岸流的发生，以检验我们对波浪和洋流的新理解如何改变我们对这些海洋过程如何发生的认识。在业务方面，我们还将在这些关键问题中获得的知识应用到现有的海洋环流模式中，这些模式是为改进区域海洋预报而开发的。

Beach erosion and pollution in our near shores, tsunamis and other rogue waves and their impact on maritime activities and on flooding of low lands, oceanic currents and oceanic thermodynamic exchanges: all of these are examples of dynamic oceanic processes of clear practical interest, with regard to their impact on our environment and on human activities. They have been listed above in order of increasing spatio-temporal scales.Science has been able to develop an understanding of certain key features of each of the above problems, in isolation, exploiting scale differences. Our general thrust is to develop ways to understand the interaction of these scales, as it is clear that none of the examples mentioned above happen without having a bearing on each other.A fundamental multi-scale interaction is that of waves and currents. Our research specifically aims to develop models of these complex interactions, and with these models, an understanding of oceanic dynamics at many scales simultaneously.We build upon our past successes to make new inroads into the problem: a specific theoretical thrust is to find how wave breaking and dissipation affects waves and currents and how these are to be modeled. Another theoretical thrust is to devise ways in which field data can complement models, particularly data that is captured by drifters and path-based measuring devices. On the practical side, we are revisiting classical problems, such as the occurrence of rip currents and long shore currents to examine how our new understanding of waves and currents modifies our knowledge of how these oceanic processes take place. On the operational side, we are also implementing the knowledge gained in these key problems into existing oceanic general circulation models (ROMS), which are being developed for improved regional oceanic forecasting.