CMG COLLABORATIVE RESEARCH: Wave Breaking Dissipation Modeling and Parametrization in Wave/Current Interactions

我们近岸的海滩侵蚀和污染、海啸和其他巨浪及其对海洋活动和低地洪水泛滥、洋流和海洋热力交换的影响：所有这些都是海洋动态过程的例子，就其对我们的环境和人类活动的影响而言，具有明显的实际意义。 科学已经能够利用尺度差异，孤立地了解上述每一个问题的某些关键特征。 我们的总体目标是开发理解这些尺度之间相互作用的方法，因为很明显，上面提到的例子中没有一个是不相互影响的。一个基本的多尺度相互作用是波浪和水流。 我们的研究特别旨在开发这些复杂相互作用的模型，并利用这些模型同时了解多个尺度的海洋动力学。我们建立在我们过去的成功基础上，对这个问题进行新的研究：一个具体的理论推力是找到波浪破碎和耗散如何影响波浪和水流，以及如何建模。 另一个理论上的推动力是设计出一种方法，使现场数据能够补充模型，特别是由漂移器和基于路径的测量设备捕获的数据。 在实践方面，我们正在重新审视经典问题，例如离岸流和长海岸流的出现，以研究我们对波浪和海流的新理解如何修改我们对这些海洋过程如何发生的知识。 在业务方面，我们还将在这些关键问题中获得的知识应用于现有的海洋环流模式，这些模式正在为改进区域海洋预报而开发。

Beach erosion and pollution in our near shores, tsunamis and other rogue waves and their impact on maritime activities and on flooding of low lands, oceanic currents and oceanic thermodynamic exchanges: all of these are examples of dynamic oceanic processes of clear practical interest, with regard to their impact on our environment and on human activities. They have been listed above in order of increasing spatio-temporal scales.Science has been able to develop an understanding of certain key features of each of the above problems, in isolation, exploiting scale differences. Our general thrust is to develop ways to understand the interaction of these scales, as it is clear that none of the examples mentioned above happen without having a bearing on each other.A fundamental multi-scale interaction is that of waves and currents. Our research specifically aims to develop models of these complex interactions, and with these models, an understanding of oceanic dynamics at many scales simultaneously.We build upon our past successes to make new inroads into the problem: a specific theoretical thrust is to find how wave breaking and dissipation affects waves and currents and how these are to be modeled. Another theoretical thrust is to devise ways in which field data can complement models, particularly data that is captured by drifters and path-based measuring devices. On the practical side, we are revisiting classical problems, such as the occurrence of rip currents and long shore currents to examine how our new understanding of waves and currents modifies our knowledge of how these oceanic processes take place. On the operational side, we are also implementing the knowledge gained in these key problems into existing oceanic general circulation models (ROMS), which are being developed for improved regional oceanic forecasting.