Effects of sea level on wave-driven inundation for reef-fringed shorelines

海平面对礁石海岸线波浪驱动淹没的影响

• 批准号: 0927407
• 负责人: Mark Merrifield
• 金额: $ 158.44万
• 依托单位: University of Hawaii
• 依托单位国家: 美国
• 项目类别: Standard Grant
• 财政年份: 2009
• 资助国家: 美国
• 起止时间: 2009-09-15 至 2013-09-30
• 项目状态: 已结题
• 来源: https://www.nsf.gov/awardsearch/showAward?AWD_ID=0927407&HistoricalAwards=false
• 关键词: Effects; sea; level; wave; driven

This award is funded under the American Recovery and Reinvestment Act of 2009 (Public Law 111-5).A field experiment is proposed to examine wave-driven coastal inundation along vulnerable atoll shorelines in the Republic of the Marshall Islands (RMI). A goal of the proposed research is to estimate coastal inundation (regional sea level + tidal height + wind-driven surge + wave setup + wave run-up) driven by wave transformations across fringing reef topography. Based on previous studies at Ipan reef, Guam, it is anticipated that water level over the reef will strongly control the inundation amplitude. To assess the conditions favorable for inundation, ocean wave and water level conditions will be measured in the deep ocean with a directional wave-rider buoy and across the reef with current meters, pressure sensors. Video imagery will be used to assess the penetration of turbulent wave bores over the reef flat, and to obtain time series of the shoreline position in conjunction with high resolution T-LiDAR surveys. Estimates of reef roughness will be obtained to assess swell dissipation due to bottom friction. Meteorological sensors will be used to monitor local wind and atmospheric pressure forcing. The dynamics of wave transformation over the reef will be assessed and incorporated into a single parametric model based on observable properties that define the incident wave conditions and reef dimensions, and the community model XBeach will be evaluated with the observations. The proposed observations will guide the development of an inundation model that will provide a tool to assess coastal inundation risk for future sea level rise scenarios at RMI and other island nations. Elements of the observing system and the parametric and/or numerical inundation model will be transferred to agencies within the RMI for ongoing coastal management and assessment purposes. Intellectual merit: Coral reefs typically act as natural breakwaters for island shorelines. Elevated water levels due to storm wave set up, however, have been shown to alter the dynamics of wave transformation on fringing reefs. A better understanding of sea level effects on wave-reef interactions is necessary to obtain quantitative estimates of coastal inundation and run up for reef fringed shorelines. This project aims to acquire and analyze in situ measurements across a fringing reef with a large tidal range during large wave events to (1) assess the effect of sea level rise on the dynamics of wave transformation and wave driven inundation and (2) develop quantitative prediction tools for coastal inundation for atolls and reef-fringed shorelines.Broader impact: This project will deliver a predictive model to assess coastal inundation for future sea level rise scenarios at RMI and other island nations. Dissemination of relevant information to the public will be developed as part the Pacific Islands Ocean Observing System (PacIOOS). Elements of the observing system and the numerical inundation model will be transferred to agencies within the RMI for ongoing coastal management and assessment purposes. Results will be communicated to the oceanographic community by presentations at international meetings and by publications in peer-reviewed journals. This collaborative project will provide training for one postdoctoral researcher and RMI students and technicians through scientific exchanges with SOEST researchers and Sea Grant outreach specialists.

该奖项是根据2009年美国复苏和再投资法案（公法111 - 5）资助的。一个实地实验，建议检查波驱动的沿海淹没沿着脆弱的环礁海岸线在马歇尔群岛共和国（马绍尔群岛）。拟议研究的一个目标是估计海岸淹没（区域海平面+潮高+风力驱动的浪涌+波建立+波爬高）驱动的波浪转换跨边缘礁地形。根据先前在关岛伊潘礁的研究，预计礁上的水位将强烈控制淹没幅度。为了评估有利于淹没的条件，将使用定向乘波浮标在深海中测量海浪和水位条件，并使用流速计和压力传感器在礁石上测量。视频图像将用于评估湍流波孔在礁滩上的穿透力，并结合高分辨率T-LiDAR调查获得海岸线位置的时间序列。将获得礁石粗糙度的估计值，以评估底摩擦引起的涌浪消散。气象传感器将用于监测当地的风力和大气压力。将根据定义入射波条件和珊瑚礁尺寸的可观察属性，评估珊瑚礁上波浪变换的动力学，并将其纳入单个参数模型，并将根据观察结果对社区模型XBeach进行评估。拟议的观测结果将指导洪水模型的开发，该模型将提供一种工具，用于评估马绍尔群岛和其他岛屿国家未来海平面上升情况下的沿海洪水风险。观测系统的要素以及参数和/或数字洪水模型将转移到马绍尔群岛共和国内的机构，用于持续的沿海管理和评估目的。知识专长：珊瑚礁通常是岛屿海岸线的天然防波堤。然而，由于风暴波的建立，水位升高，已被证明会改变边缘礁上波浪转化的动力学。更好地了解海平面对波浪-珊瑚礁相互作用的影响，是获得海岸淹没的定量估计和珊瑚礁边缘海岸线的运行所必需的。该项目旨在获取和分析在大浪事件期间具有大潮差的边缘珊瑚礁的现场测量结果，以（1）评估海平面上升对波浪变形和波浪驱动的洪水的动力学的影响，（2）开发环礁和珊瑚礁边缘海岸线沿海洪水的定量预测工具。该项目将提供一个预测模型，以评估马绍尔群岛和其他岛屿国家未来海平面上升情况下的沿海洪水。向公众传播相关信息的工作将作为太平洋岛屿海洋观测系统的一部分加以发展。观测系统的组成部分和淹没数字模型将移交马绍尔群岛共和国的机构，用于进行海岸管理和评估。研究结果将通过在国际会议上的介绍和在同行评审的期刊上发表的方式传达给海洋学界。这一合作项目将通过与索斯特研究人员和海洋赠款外联专家的科学交流，为一名博士后研究人员和马绍尔群岛的学生和技术人员提供培训。