Doctoral Dissertation Research: Managing Global Guilt and Local Norms: Regulation in the Sri Lankan Clothing Industry

博士论文研究：管理全球罪恶感和当地规范：斯里兰卡服装行业的监管

• 批准号: 1002624
• 负责人: John Pickles
• 金额: $ 1.2万
• 依托单位: University of North Carolina at Chapel Hill
• 依托单位国家: 美国
• 项目类别: Standard Grant
• 财政年份: 2010
• 资助国家: 美国
• 起止时间: 2010-06-01 至 2011-11-30
• 项目状态: 已结题
• 来源: https://www.nsf.gov/awardsearch/showAward?AWD_ID=1002624&HistoricalAwards=false
• 关键词: Doctoral; Dissertation; Research; Managing; Global

NATIONAL SCIENCE FOUNDATIONGEOGRAPHY AND SPATIAL SCIENCES PROGRAMABSTRACT1002624John PicklesAnnelies M. GogerUniversity of North Carolina at Chapel HillDDRI: Managing Global Guilt and Local Norms: Regulation in the Sri Lankan Clothing IndustrySince the 1980s, trade liberalization and the subsequent globalization of production networks have generated widespread concerns about a lack of regulation in the clothing industry, specifically about practices such as unsafe working conditions, child labor, low wages, and unstable employment. The universal compliance codes and monitoring systems devised to address these problems -- herein called ethical initiatives -- have not met the central objective of standardization, addressed root causes, or accounted for cultural specificities in the meaning of ethical. This doctoral dissertation project will investigate the politics of ethical governance in global clothing supply chains with a focus on how global power dynamics, local norms, and gender relations shape notions of ethical in Sri Lanka. In addition to interrogating how the meaning of ethical is contested at multiple scales, the project will compare ethical initiatives in export processing zones and villages in Sri Lanka because they have very different geographies of labor. Drawing from theoretical foundations in global value chains, apparel industry ethnographies, and feminist geography, the study asks: (1) How have key global and national stakeholders (buyers, consumer groups, unions, the state) responded to recent changes in the global economy to formulate new priorities for ethical initiatives (2) How do different contextual dynamics in EPZs and villages shape the forms and practices of ethical initiatives (3) How do Sri Lankan debates over gender roles influence labor relations in the garment industry and how are they incorporated into the forms and practices that ethical initiatives take on. Due to its emphasis on multiple scales of governance, this study requires multi-sited fieldwork with key ethical initiative actors in Europe and the United States and extended fieldwork in Sri Lanka. Multiple methods are used including semi-structured interviews, factory site visits and surveys, factory manager life histories, worker focus groups, discourse analysis, archival research, and participant observation of multi-stakeholder forums. The findings will demonstrate the significance of local norms and labor geographies in shaping how ethical initiatives are implemented, the political inner-workings of ethical initiatives in global supply chains, and the ways in which debates about gender manifest in ethical initiatives in Sri Lanka. Beyond Sri Lanka, this study engages with broader debates about global governance and ethical trade, which is why the multi-sited component with global actors is necessary. Theoretically and methodologically, it will engage sub-fields that are rarely brought into conversation: global value chains and apparel industry ethnographies. Moreover, it will draw from the understudied case of Sri Lanka's best practice ethical initiatives to inform debates about how to address the lack of engagement of workers, suppliers, and local organizations in the design and evaluation of ethical initiatives. The study also investigates the potential dangers of locally embedded approaches such as a continued lack of engagement with workers in program design. This project is important at a national level because ethical initiatives are now a core aspect of Sri Lanka's global competitiveness strategy. In these ways, the research can make important contributions to global policy initiatives on ethical trade with the goal of generating more reflexive and context-specific approaches.

美国国家自然科学基金地理与空间科学项目[j]；自20世纪80年代以来，贸易自由化和随后的生产网络全球化引起了人们对服装行业缺乏监管的广泛关注，特别是关于不安全工作条件、童工、低工资和不稳定就业等做法。为解决这些问题而设计的通用合规规范和监控系统——这里称为道德倡议——没有达到标准化的中心目标，没有解决根本原因，也没有解释道德意义上的文化特殊性。本博士论文项目将研究全球服装供应链中的道德治理政治，重点关注全球权力动态、地方规范和性别关系如何塑造斯里兰卡的道德观念。除了探究道德的含义如何在多个尺度上受到争议外，该项目还将比较斯里兰卡出口加工区和村庄的道德倡议，因为它们的劳动力地理位置非常不同。根据全球价值链、服装行业民族志和女权主义地理学的理论基础，该研究提出了以下问题：(1)全球和国家的主要利益相关者(买家、消费者团体、工会、国家)应对全球经济的最新变化，制定道德倡议的新优先事项(2)epz和村庄的不同背景动态如何塑造道德倡议的形式和实践(3)斯里兰卡关于性别角色的辩论如何影响服装行业的劳资关系，以及它们如何被纳入道德倡议的形式和实践。由于强调治理的多重尺度，本研究需要与欧洲和美国的主要道德倡议参与者进行多地点实地考察，并在斯里兰卡进行扩展的实地考察。本文采用了半结构化访谈、工厂实地考察和调查、工厂经理生活史、工人焦点小组、话语分析、档案研究和多方利益相关者论坛的参与者观察等多种方法。研究结果将展示当地规范和劳动力地域在塑造道德倡议如何实施方面的重要性，全球供应链中道德倡议的政治内部运作，以及斯里兰卡道德倡议中关于性别的辩论的方式。除了斯里兰卡之外，本研究还涉及了关于全球治理和道德贸易的更广泛的辩论，这就是为什么有必要与全球行动者进行多站点组成部分。从理论和方法上讲，它将涉及很少被纳入对话的子领域：全球价值链和服装行业民族志。此外，它将借鉴斯里兰卡最佳实践道德倡议的未充分研究的案例，为如何解决工人，供应商和当地组织在道德倡议的设计和评估中缺乏参与的问题提供辩论。该研究还调查了本地嵌入方法的潜在危险，例如在项目设计中持续缺乏与工人的接触。这个项目在国家层面上很重要，因为道德倡议现在是斯里兰卡全球竞争力战略的一个核心方面。在这些方面，研究可以为道德贸易的全球政策倡议做出重要贡献，目标是产生更多反思性和具体情况的方法。