Collaborative Research: Shoreward Sediment Transport: Combining Highly Resolved Field Observations and Modeling to Examine Fundamental Processes Controlling Shoreline Adjustment

在波浪主导的海岸上，岸线的形成和维护是由岸线的泥沙搬运造成的。由于它们的振荡运动，波浪来回移动沉积物，在许多波浪和条件下平均的净输送是造成海滩增生或侵蚀的原因。海岸沉积物运输对于了解海滩如何在海平面上升、风暴和工程海岸结构建设的影响下重建至关重要。本研究的重点是提高对海岸运输的理解，这将使更好的模型参数化能够预测这种反应，并预测风暴后海岸线的潜在恢复。在近岸海洋学中，波浪驱动的沿岸运输的基本过程是最不为人所知和最难以捉摸的过程之一。许多相互竞争的理论机制可能有所贡献，但严重缺乏验证数据来确定它们的相对重要性。提议的工作是一个跨学科的合作，汇集了海洋学，流体动力学和工程学，以解决具有重大社会影响的问题的科学基础。湍流和沉积物的实地测量将在一个天然海滩上进行。实验数据将与先进的数值模拟技术相结合，以确定天然海滩上最重要的波浪驱动的海岸机制。除了研究的科学和工程价值外，该项目还将有助于培养博士研究生，并使本科生接触实地研究。将通过制作记录片风格的短片进行公众宣传。岸向输运的建模需要表现跨广泛尺度的多种输运过程，从小规模湍流、泥沙动员、流体-泥沙反馈到波长尺度的非线性波动过程。在过去，这些过程的直接调查只能在实验室研究中进行，由于尺度效应和简化的动力学，这些过程对真实近岸环境的适用性不确定。另一方面，全尺寸实验代表了真实的动力学，但往往牺牲了分辨率，例如，只测量了许多波周期的平均输运，留下了哪些过程对输运有贡献的不确定性。本研究的关键组成部分是利用专用的宽带脉冲相干声学多普勒分析器（MFDop）和详细的过程模型，它们共同解决了假设在天然海滩上发生的全套传输机制。MFDop系统是一种剖面仪，能够在高频（50 Hz）下测量沉积物浓度和速度波动，垂直分辨率为4毫米，能够分辨海床上方延伸几厘米的波浪边界层。MFDop系统和配套仪器将部署在俄勒冈州的一个天然海滩上，以测量边界层速度和沉积物悬浮的垂直结构作为自由流速度和压力梯度的函数。收集到的数据将指导在波长和厘米尺度（雷诺兹平均一维垂直模拟）和亚厘米到亚毫米尺度上模拟流动和沉积物变化的建模实验，这些实验能够解决边界层涡流和沉积物颗粒（大涡流模拟（LES）模型）。将开发一种嵌套方法，旨在将波长效应添加到LES建模中，同时避免计算限制。该奖项反映了美国国家科学基金会的法定使命，并通过使用基金会的知识价值和更广泛的影响审查标准进行评估，被认为值得支持。

Shoreward sediment transport is responsible for building and maintaining shorelines on wave-dominated coasts. Due to their oscillatory motion waves move sediments back and forth and the net transport, averaging over many waves and conditions, is responsible for accretion or erosion of beaches. Shoreward sediment transport is critical to understanding how beaches rebuild in response to rising sea levels, storms, and the construction of engineered coastal structures. Improved understanding of shoreward transport, the focus of this study, will enable better model parameterizations to predict this response and forecast the potential recovery of the coastline following a storm. The fundamental processes underlying wave-driven shoreward transport are among the least understood and most elusive processes in nearshore oceanography. Numerous competing theoretical mechanisms are likely to contribute, but there is a critical lack of validation data to determine their relative importance. The proposed work is an interdisciplinary collaboration that brings together oceanography, fluid dynamics, and engineering to address the scientific fundamentals of a problem with significant societal implications. Field measurements of turbulence and sediment will be carried out on a natural beach. The experimental data will be combined with advance numerical modelling techniques that will allow identification of the most important wave-driven shoreward mechanisms on a natural beach. Apart for the scientific and engineering values of the study, the project will provide contribute to the training PhD students and it will expose undergraduate students into field research. Public outreach will be conducted through the development of short documentary-style video.Modeling shoreward transport requires representation of multiple transport processes that act across a broad range of scales, from small-scale turbulence, sediment mobilization, and fluid-sediment feedbacks, to wavelength-scale nonlinear wave processes. In the past, direct investigation of such processes has only been possible in laboratory studies, which have uncertain applicability to real nearshore environments due to scaling effects and simplified dynamics. Full-scale experiments, on the other hand, represent realistic dynamics but often sacrifice resolution, e.g. by only measuring average transport over many wave periods, leaving uncertainty as to what processes are contributing to transport. The key components of this study are the utilization of a purpose-built, broadband pulse-coherent acoustic Doppler profiler (MFDop), and detailed process models, which together resolve the full suite of transport mechanisms that have been hypothesized to occur on natural beaches. The MFDop system is a profiler, capable of measuring sediment concentration and velocity fluctuations at high frequency (50 Hz) and with a vertical resolution of 4 mm capable of resolving the wave boundary layer that extends a few cm above the seabed. The MFDop system and supporting instrumentation will be deployed on a natural beach in Oregon to measure the vertical structure of boundary layer velocities and sediment suspension as a function of the free-stream velocity and pressure gradient. The data collected will guide modeling experiments simulating flow and sediment variability at wavelength and cm-scales (Reynolds-averaged 1-D vertical simulations) and at sub-cm to sub-mm scales capable to resolve boundary layer eddies and sediment particles (Large eddy simulation (LES) modelling). A nested approach will be developed aiming at adding wavelength-effects into LES modelling while avoiding computational limitation.This award reflects NSF's statutory mission and has been deemed worthy of support through evaluation using the Foundation's intellectual merit and broader impacts review criteria.