Collaborative Research: Surfzone Eddy Dynamics

这个项目将研究波浪破碎的近岸区域，即冲浪区的再循环流动。这些水流将冲浪带和该区域(内陆架)的海域连接起来。这项研究将使用数学模型和已有的测量方法来探索三个假设：a)可以从海岸记录的图像中识别再循环；b)再循环流动可以与波浪特性(例如其方向的变化)联系在一起；以及c)这些再循环代表转移到内陆架的能量中不可忽略的一部分。测量包括二维图像、流速和水压变化。人工智能将有助于识别冲浪区的再循环。使用二维和三维数学模型将有助于阐明再循环的三维重要性。作为更广泛的影响，这项研究将改进对激流和冲浪区与内陆架之间性质交换的预测。本科生将访问现场，了解近岸过程，观察数据收集方法，并与沿海科学家互动。然后，学生将根据他们在现场学到的知识，参与数学建模研究。该项目将支持世界卫生组织的两名硕士学生和一名女博士生，以及为当地青少年教育暑期项目(MarineQuest)开发冲浪区科学和安全模块。该项目将研究与冲浪区短波峰破碎波产生的涡流相关的流体动力学和湍流动能。这项研究将使用数值和分析模型以及手头的观测来探索三个假设：a)可以从遥感图像确定海浪带涡旋；b)这些涡流的速度和涡度可以与旋转强迫的方向扩散和梯度联系起来；c)涡流抛射主导着海浪带涡动动能的消散。可用的观测值来自远程相机(2D表面图像)、海流计和压力传感器。机器学习将被用来识别冲浪区涡流区域。2D(Funwave-TVD)和3D(Swash)模型的比较将确定与内陆架涡流抛射相关的3D效果。作为更广泛的影响，这项研究将改进对激流的预测以及冲浪区和内陆架之间的性质交换。本科生将访问现场，以第一手了解近岸过程，观察现代数据收集方法，并与沿海科学家互动。然后，学生将根据他们在现场所学到的知识，参与数值建模研究。该项目将支持世界卫生组织的两名硕士研究生，一名世界卫生组织的女博士生，以及为当地青年教育暑期项目(MarineQuest)开发冲浪区科学和安全模块。该奖项反映了NSF的法定使命，并通过使用基金会的智力优势和更广泛的影响审查标准进行评估，被认为值得支持。

This project will study recirculating flows at the nearshore zone where waves break, the surf zone. These flows connect the surf zone and the area seaward of this region (the inner shelf). The study will use mathematical models and already-available measurements to explore three hypotheses: a) that the recirculations can be identified from images recorded at the shore; b) that the recirculating flows can be linked to wave properties (such as the variation in their directions); and c) that these recirculations represent a non-negligible portion of the energy transferred to the inner shelf. Measurements consist of two-dimensional images, flow velocity, and water pressure variations. Artificial intelligence will help to identify the recirculations in the surf zone. The use of two-dimensional and three-dimensional mathematical models will help elucidate the importance of the three-dimensionality of the recirculations. As Broader Impacts, the study shall improve predictions of rip currents and of the exchange of properties between the surf zone and the inner shelf. Undergraduate students will visit a field site to learn about nearshore processes, to observe data collection methods, and to interact with coastal scientists. Students will then participate in mathematical modeling studies based on what they learn on the field. This project will support two MS students at UNCW, one female PhD student at WHOI, and the development of a surfzone science and safety module for a local youth educational summer program (MarineQuest).This project will study the hydrodynamics and turbulent kinetic energy associated with the generation of eddies by short-crested breaking waves at the surf zone. The study will use models, numerical and analytical, and in-hand observations to explore three hypotheses: a) that the surfzone eddies can be determined from remotely sensed images; b) that the velocity and vorticity of these eddies can be linked to the directional spread and the gradients of a rotational forcing; and c) that eddy ejections dominate the dissipation of surfzone eddy-kinetic energy. Available observations are derived from remote cameras (2D surface imagery), current meters, and pressure sensors. Machine learning will be used to identify the surfzone eddy fields. Comparison of 2D (Funwave-TVD) vs 3D (SWASH) models will determine the 3D effects associated with the eddy ejections to the inner shelf. As Broader Impacts, the study shall Improve predictions of rip currents and the exchange of properties between the surf zone and the inner shelf. Undergraduate students will visit a field site to learn about nearshore processes first hand, to observe modern data collection approaches, and to interact with coastal scientists. Students will then participate in numerical modeling studies based on what they have learned on the field. This project will support two MS students at UNCW, one female PhD student at WHOI, and the development of a surfzone science and safety module for a local youth educational summer program (MarineQuest).This award reflects NSF's statutory mission and has been deemed worthy of support through evaluation using the Foundation's intellectual merit and broader impacts review criteria.