Collaborative Research: Surfzone Eddy Dynamics

本计画将研究波浪破碎之近岸区，即碎波区之再循环流。这些流动连接碎波带和该区域的向海区域（内大陆架）。这项研究将利用数学模型和现有的测量数据来探讨三个假设：（a）可以从海岸记录的图像中确定再循环;（B）再循环流可以与波浪特性（例如其方向的变化）联系起来;（c）这些再循环是转移到内陆架的能量中不可忽略的一部分。测量包括二维图像、流速和水压变化。人工智能将有助于识别冲浪区的再循环。二维和三维数学模型的使用将有助于阐明三维再循环的重要性。作为更广泛的影响，这项研究将改进对裂流和碎波带与内大陆架之间的性质交换的预测。本科生将参观现场，了解近岸过程，观察数据收集方法，并与沿海科学家互动。然后，学生将根据他们在现场学到的知识参加数学建模研究。该项目将支持UNCW的两名硕士生和WHOI的一名女博士生，并为当地青年暑期教育计划（MarineQuest）开发冲浪区科学和安全模块，该项目将研究与冲浪区短峰破碎波产生漩涡有关的流体动力学和湍流动能。这项研究将使用数值和分析模型以及现有观测资料来探讨三种假设：a）可以从遥感图像中确定冲浪带涡流; B）这些涡流的速度和涡度可以与旋转力的方向扩展和梯度相联系; c）涡流喷射在冲浪带涡流动能的耗散中占主导地位。可用的观测数据来自远程摄像机（2D表面图像）、流速计和压力传感器。机器学习将用于识别冲浪带涡流场。2D（Funwave-TVD）与3D（SWASH）模式的比较将确定与涡旋喷射到内大陆架相关的3D效应。作为更广泛的影响，这项研究将改进对裂流的预测以及碎波带和内大陆架之间的性质交换。本科生将参观现场，了解近岸过程的第一手资料，观察现代数据收集方法，并与沿海科学家互动。然后，学生将根据他们在现场学到的知识参加数值建模研究。该项目将支持UNCW的两名MS学生，WHOI的一名女博士生，以及为当地青年教育暑期计划（MarineQuest）开发冲浪区科学和安全模块。该奖项反映了NSF的法定使命，并通过使用基金会的智力价值和更广泛的影响审查标准进行评估，被认为值得支持。

This project will study recirculating flows at the nearshore zone where waves break, the surf zone. These flows connect the surf zone and the area seaward of this region (the inner shelf). The study will use mathematical models and already-available measurements to explore three hypotheses: a) that the recirculations can be identified from images recorded at the shore; b) that the recirculating flows can be linked to wave properties (such as the variation in their directions); and c) that these recirculations represent a non-negligible portion of the energy transferred to the inner shelf. Measurements consist of two-dimensional images, flow velocity, and water pressure variations. Artificial intelligence will help to identify the recirculations in the surf zone. The use of two-dimensional and three-dimensional mathematical models will help elucidate the importance of the three-dimensionality of the recirculations. As Broader Impacts, the study shall improve predictions of rip currents and of the exchange of properties between the surf zone and the inner shelf. Undergraduate students will visit a field site to learn about nearshore processes, to observe data collection methods, and to interact with coastal scientists. Students will then participate in mathematical modeling studies based on what they learn on the field. This project will support two MS students at UNCW, one female PhD student at WHOI, and the development of a surfzone science and safety module for a local youth educational summer program (MarineQuest).This project will study the hydrodynamics and turbulent kinetic energy associated with the generation of eddies by short-crested breaking waves at the surf zone. The study will use models, numerical and analytical, and in-hand observations to explore three hypotheses: a) that the surfzone eddies can be determined from remotely sensed images; b) that the velocity and vorticity of these eddies can be linked to the directional spread and the gradients of a rotational forcing; and c) that eddy ejections dominate the dissipation of surfzone eddy-kinetic energy. Available observations are derived from remote cameras (2D surface imagery), current meters, and pressure sensors. Machine learning will be used to identify the surfzone eddy fields. Comparison of 2D (Funwave-TVD) vs 3D (SWASH) models will determine the 3D effects associated with the eddy ejections to the inner shelf. As Broader Impacts, the study shall Improve predictions of rip currents and the exchange of properties between the surf zone and the inner shelf. Undergraduate students will visit a field site to learn about nearshore processes first hand, to observe modern data collection approaches, and to interact with coastal scientists. Students will then participate in numerical modeling studies based on what they have learned on the field. This project will support two MS students at UNCW, one female PhD student at WHOI, and the development of a surfzone science and safety module for a local youth educational summer program (MarineQuest).This award reflects NSF's statutory mission and has been deemed worthy of support through evaluation using the Foundation's intellectual merit and broader impacts review criteria.