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Fashion and Styles in African Cities. Case Studies from Douala and Lagos

非洲城市的时尚和风格。

基本信息

批准号：
322578602
负责人：
Professorin Dr. Kerstin Pinther
金额：
--
依托单位：
Staatliche Museen zu Berlin - Preußischer Kulturbesitz
依托单位国家：
德国
项目类别：
Research Grants
财政年份：
2016
资助国家：
德国
起止时间：
2015-12-31 至 2019-12-31
项目状态：
已结题

来源：
https://gepris.dfg.de/gepris/projekt/322578602?language=en
关键词：
Fashion Styles African Cities.Case

项目摘要

The aim of this interdisciplinary project, which is situated at the intersection of art history, anthropology of art and fashion and textile studies, is to uncover the multifaceted interrelationships between fashion and urbanity using the examples of Douala and Lagos. The importance of urbanity has long been recognized and, in part, researched, in terms of the development of fashion in the Euro-American context. However, no scholarship has, as yet, empirically and theoretically demonstrated the entangled interwoven relationships between fashion worlds and urban cultures in Africa. We employ a methodology that y to identify the historical connections and regional differences encompasses art historical, ethnographic and cultural studies approaches. Thus, fashion will not be critiqued, as is so often the case, as superficial and vain. Rather, in keeping with Nuttal's (2008) innovative work, fashion is understood as an interface between significant spheres of contemporary culture. In this spirit the project has four related case studies. Each will examine different aspects of metropolitan fashion practices and designs within site-specific systems of production, identity construction. This starting point generates questions regarding the aesthetic and symbolic aspects of fashion and its contextualization as well as medial presentations. How is the city - its visual culture, its specific history - inscribed into fashion? How do limited resources and the lack of state support manifest within the fashion sector in production, as well as in a genuine urban aesthetic? In keeping with a "spatial turn", a strategy that has been adopted in fashion studies as well, we inquire into the specific places of fashion, its aesthetic and its site-specific forms of presentation. Further research questions speak to specific fashion worlds and its actors: What role does fashion play in the construction of identity and self-representation of the urban middle class, the elite and youth culture? Furthermore, we consider the transnational relationships of fashion designers and producers, processes of globalization along with the growing importance of new media and online social networks. This cooperative project is composed of four individual studies. A. Schemmel addresses the history, aesthetics and practice of fashion in Douala. Correspondingly, in case study two, B. Ndjio (University of Douala) examines fashion as a means of social distinction for urban youths. Additionally, M. Oberhofer will contribute a historical perspective, analyzing fashionable photography in Douala. The third case study (H. Mezger) is dedicated to the biographies, aesthetics and the urban references of fashion producers in Lagos, in both local and transnational contexts. In the fourth, joint case study F. Ugiomoh (University of Port Harcourt) and K. Pinther research the medial representation of fashion in magazines, photographs and fashion blogs since the 1960s.

这个跨学科项目位于艺术史、艺术人类学、时尚和纺织品研究的交叉点，旨在以杜阿拉和拉各斯为例，揭示时尚与都市之间的多方面相互关系。从欧美时尚发展的角度来看，都市化的重要性早已被认识到，并在一定程度上得到了研究。然而，到目前为止，还没有学者从经验和理论上证明非洲时尚世界和城市文化之间纠缠在一起的相互关系。我们采用一种方法来识别历史联系和地区差异，包括艺术史、民族志和文化研究方法。因此，时尚不会像经常发生的那样被批评为肤浅和虚荣。相反，与Nuttal（2008）的创新工作保持一致，时尚被理解为当代文化重要领域之间的界面。本着这种精神，该项目有四个相关的案例研究。每个人都将在特定的生产、身份建设系统中研究都市时尚实践和设计的不同方面。这个出发点产生了关于时尚的美学和象征方面的问题，以及它的语境化和媒体呈现。这座城市——它的视觉文化，它的特殊历史——是如何被刻在时尚之中的？有限的资源和缺乏国家支持如何体现在时尚行业的生产中，以及在真正的城市审美中？为了与“空间转向”保持一致，这一策略在时尚研究中也被采用，我们探讨了时尚的特定场所、审美和特定场所的呈现形式。进一步的研究问题涉及特定的时尚界及其参与者：时尚在城市中产阶级、精英和青年文化的身份和自我表现的建构中扮演什么角色？此外，我们考虑时装设计师和生产商的跨国关系，全球化进程以及新媒体和在线社交网络日益增长的重要性。这个合作项目由四个单独的研究组成。A. Schemmel讲述了杜阿拉的历史、美学和时尚实践。相应地，在案例研究二中，杜阿拉大学（University of Douala）的B. Ndjio将时尚作为城市青年社会区分的一种手段进行了研究。此外，Oberhofer先生将从历史的角度分析杜阿拉的时尚摄影。第三个案例研究（H. Mezger）致力于在当地和跨国背景下拉各斯时尚制作人的传记，美学和城市参考。第四，联合案例研究F. Ugiomoh（港哈科特大学）和K. Pinther研究了自20世纪60年代以来时尚在杂志、照片和时尚博客中的媒体表现。