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Research and development of wave-forecasting models of the next generation

下一代波浪预报模型的研究与开发

基本信息

批准号：
09559013
负责人：
MASUDA Akira
金额：
$ 8.51万
依托单位：
KYUSHU UNIVERSITY
依托单位国家：
日本
项目类别：
Grant-in-Aid for Scientific Research (B)
财政年份：
1997
资助国家：
日本
起止时间：
1997 至 1999
项目状态：
已结题

来源：
https://kaken.nii.ac.jp/grant/KAKENHI-PROJECT-09559013/
关键词：
Advanced models of wave forecasting Nonlinear energy transfer RIAM models and WAM models Equilibrium spectra of wind waves Observation and laboratory experiment Wave forecast at finite depths Wave breaking -5 3 power spectra of significant

项目摘要

The purpose of this research therefore was not only to develop technique for improving the wave-forecasting model, but also to study wide aspects of wind-wave phenomena associated with the wave model. Hence the principal results are classified into the two categories :(A) Technical achievements in the wave forecasting model :1. Intercomparison of the RIAM model and the well-known WAM model or others2. Development of the method for calculating nonlinear energy transfer at finite depths3. Development and test of algorithms for the radiation term of the spectral evolution(B) Wave-dynamical findings and problems :1. Statistics of wind and waves observed at the Tsuyazaki Station and in the Japan Sea2. Experimental study of wave braking especially on its role in redelivering energy3. Nonlinear dispersion relation and equilibrium spectra of wind-wave spectraResults of particular interest to be highlighted are as follows.1) A method was developed for calculating the nonlinear energy transfer among component waves at "finite depth". The method much improves the previous methods of Masuda (1980) or Komatsu and Masuda (1996, the RIAM method).the method developed here is probably is one of the most reliable with a widest applicability both in deep water and in shallow water.2) Wave breaking has so far been considered simply as an energy sink. The experiment made in this research, however, clearly indicated that braking redistributes energy among component waves just as nonlinear energy transfer does.3) The long-term data analysis revealed that the steepness of significant waves in the Japan Sea has an upper bound independent of the season of the wind speed. Also it was found that significant wave heights and significant wave periods have -5/3 power frequency spectra for periods from a few dayst to several hours. These findings suggest the presence of some deeper laws about the variability of "significant waves", which should be a consequence of some unknown dynamics.

因此，这项研究的目的不仅是开发改进波浪预报模型的技术，而且是广泛研究与波浪模型相关的风浪现象。因此主要成果分为两类：（一）波浪预报模型的技术成果： 1． RIAM模型与著名的WAM模型或其他模型的对比2。有限深度非线性能量传递计算方法的发展3。光谱演化辐射项算法的开发和测试(B) 波动力学发现和问题： 1．津崎站和日本海观测到的风浪统计2。波浪制动的实验研究，特别是其在重新传递能量中的作用3。非线性色散关系和风波谱的平衡谱特别值得关注的结果如下：1）开发了一种计算“有限深度”分量波之间的非线性能量传递的方法。该方法大大改进了 Masuda (1980) 或 Komatsu 和 Masuda (1996，RIAM 方法) 的先前方法。这里开发的方法可能是最可靠的方法之一，在深水和浅水中都有最广泛的适用性。2) 迄今为止，波浪破碎一直被简单地视为能量汇。然而，本研究所做的实验清楚地表明，制动就像非线性能量传递一样，在各分量波之间重新分配能量。 3)长期数据分析表明，日本海重要波浪的陡度存在一个与风速季节无关的上限。还发现有效波高和有效波周期在从几天到几个小时的周期内具有-5/3功率频谱。这些发现表明存在一些关于“重要波”变化的更深层次的规律，这应该是一些未知动力学的结果。