Role of wave breaking on the growth and decay of wind-waves and the sea surface flux of momentum, heat and gasses such as CO2.

1.[涌浪与风浪](1)众所周知，随风传播的涌浪会抑制风浪的增长。根据Chen和Belcher最近提出的假设计算的抑制率与实验室实验结果很好地吻合，但需要仔细验证。(2)在运行的MRI波模型中引入了一个新的肿胀耗散项。这一项大大提高了太平洋夏威夷附近海浪预报的精确度，到目前为止，大多数海浪模型都未能预报涌浪。2.[波浪破碎和水湍流](1)在强风和强波浪破碎条件下，地表流动是在大约两倍于有效波高的薄层中观测到的。在此基础上提出了一种新的地表径流垂向分布模型。(2)在波浪能量耗散方面，在直接数值模拟irr…的数值模式中加入了一个简单的波浪破碎模型。更多的电波。该模型给出的能量耗散估计值与实验室实验和波浪预报模型相比是有利的。3.[白浪]波浪破碎是由可见的“白浪”现象探测到的。在不同风海条件下的观测结果表明，白浪覆盖率随风速三次方的增大而迅速增大。白云覆盖率较高的原因是(1)不稳定的密度层结，(2)衰减的波浪，(3)不受涌浪影响的风浪。4.[CO2浓度和通量](1)在对马海峡东部的对马和柴野岛观测到了大气CO2浓度的日变化和区域特征。(2)指出了用涡旋相关法测量夏季CO2通量时，由于水汽和温度的影响，需要进行校正。(3)在风槽中，准确地测量了跨水面的CO2通量。发现气体交换速度不仅与风速有关，还与风速有关，并提出了一个新的经验公式来表示气体交换速度与风速的关系。5.[动量通量：波浪对海面阻力系数和粗糙度长度的影响](1)在高精度的实验室实验基础上，提出了一个考虑表面张力和粘性的无因次水面波粗糙度公式。(2)为了保证测量的可靠性，在海站同时应用涡旋相关法、惯性耗散法和剖面法测量了海面上的动量通量。然后提出了一个新的综合公式来解释以前的各种粗糙度长度公式，这些公式似乎彼此矛盾，特别是在与风浪的相关性方面。较少

1.[swell and wind-waves](1)Swell propagating with wind is known to suppress the growth of wind-waves. The suppression rate calculated based on the recently proposed hypothesis of Chen and Belcher was found to agree well with the result of the laboratory experiment, though careful verification is necessary. (2)A new term of swell dissipation was introduced to the operating MRI wave model. This term proved to much improve the accuracy of wave prediction off Hawaii in the Pacific, where most wave models have failed to predict the swell well so far.2.[wave breaking and water turbulence](1)The surface flow was observed in a thin layer that is about twice as thick as the significant wave height under strong wind and intense wave breaking. A new model of the vertical distribution of surface flow was proposed based on that measurement. (2)As regards the dissipation of wave energy, a simple model of wave breaking was incorporated into a numerical model for the direct numerical simulation of irr … More otational waves. That model yielded an estimate of energy dissipation that is compared favorably with laboratory experiments and wave prediction models.3.[whitecap]Wave breaking is detected by a visible phenomenon of "whitecap". Based on the observation under various wind-sea conditions, whitecap coverage was confirmed to increase rapidly with the third power of wind velocity. Also whitecap coverage was found relatively high for (1)unstable density stratification, (2)decaying waves, and (3)wind-waves unaffected by swell.4.[CO2 concentration and flux ](1)Daily variation and regional characteristics of atmospheric CO2 concentration was observed at Tsushima and Shikanoshima in the Eastern Tsushima Strait. (2)It was pointed out that correction due to the effect of vapor and temperature is necessary when eddy-correlation method is used to measure the CO2 flux in summer. (3)In a wind flume, CO2 flux across the water surface was measured accurately. Gas exchange velocity was found to depend not only on the wind velocity, but also on the fetch and a new empirical formula was proposed to express the fetch-dependence of the gas exchange velocity.5.[momentum flux : wave effect on the drag coefficient and roughness length of sea surface](1) A non-dimensional formula of the roughness of water surface waves that takes into account surface tension and viscosity was proposed based on laboratory experiments of high accuracy. (2)Momentum flux above the sea surface was measured at a sea station by simultaneous application of eddy-correlation, inertial dissipation and, profile methods in order to guarantee the reliability. Then a new comprehensive formula was proposed to explain the various previous formulas of roughness length that have seemed even contradictory with one another, in particular as regards the dependence on wind-waves. Less