A New Testing Method for Sewing Threads and the Sewability

缝纫线及可缝纫性的新测试方法

• 批准号: 02680074
• 负责人: SHIMAZAKI Kozo
• 金额: $ 0.83万
• 依托单位: Japan Women's University
• 依托单位国家: 日本
• 项目类别: Grant-in-Aid for General Scientific Research (C)
• 财政年份: 1990
• 资助国家: 日本
• 起止时间: 1990 至 1991
• 项目状态: 已结题
• 来源: https://kaken.nii.ac.jp/grant/KAKENHI-PROJECT-02680074/
• 关键词: Sewing; Sewing Thread; Thread Test; Sewability; Seam Puckering; Sewing Machine

A new testing system was constructed to evaluate the sewability of threads during machine sewing. A high-speed and constant-load cyclic test for sewing threads is desired from a point of view of sewing. The testing equipment utilizes the motion of needle bar and cyclic loading is given to a specimen. Between two clamps of the test machine, there is a thread absorber which compensates the unrecovered (permanent) strain to operate constant-load cyclic test. The thread absorber has a servomotor which is controlled by personal computer. This method enables constant-load cyclic test under high-speed conditions although it is necessary to determine the control data by trial and error. In actual experiment, the testing equipment worked successfully.Ufirecovered strain and work of samples (sewing threads) in every cycle were obtained from the test data using computer. The unrecovered strain was increased with cyclic loading and was saturated soori. On tlie other hand, the work taken from thread stretching process became a little smaller with(, Yclic loading but the work in the recovering process maintained some constant level. There was a linear relationship between the work in the recovering process and the maximum tension held constant in cyclic loading.The contraction of seams sewed by a lockstitch machine was measured. The contraction (i. e. seam ptickeritig) is related with the work in the recovering process obtained from the thread test described above. Next, the motion of check spring was observed photographically. It was shown that the motion of spring was roughly explainable using the elongational data of sewing threads obtained from the test. There was little relation between the elongational properties of threads and loop configurations of needle threads.

构建了一个新的测试系统来评估机器缝纫过程中线的可缝纫性。从缝纫的角度来看，需要对缝纫线进行高速恒负载循环测试。测试设备利用针杆的运动并对样本施加循环载荷。试验机的两个夹具之间有一个螺纹吸收器，可补偿未恢复的（永久）应变以进行恒负载循环试验。吸线装置配备有由个人计算机控制的伺服电机。尽管需要通过反复试验来确定控制数据，但该方法可以在高速条件下进行恒负载循环测试。在实际实验中，该测试设备运行良好。通过计算机测试数据，得出样品（缝纫线）在每个周期的覆盖应变和功。未恢复的应变随着循环载荷的增加而增加，并达到饱和状态。另一方面，随着循环加载，线拉伸过程中获得的功变得稍小，但恢复过程中的功保持了一定的恒定水平。恢复过程中的功与循环加载中保持恒定的最大张力之间存在线性关系。测量了平缝机缝制的接缝的收缩。收缩（即接缝张力）与恢复过程中的功有关，由下式获得： 上面描述的线程测试。接下来，用照片观察止动弹簧的运动。结果表明，使用从测试中获得的缝纫线的伸长数据可以大致解释弹簧的运动。线的伸长性能和针线的环结构之间几乎没有关系。