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A New Approach to Garments for the Aged and Physically Handicapped People and its Evaluation.

老年人和残疾人服装的新方法及其评价。

基本信息

批准号：
15300247
负责人：
SHIMAZAKI Kozo
金额：
$ 4.8万
依托单位：
Japan Women's University
依托单位国家：
日本
项目类别：
Grant-in-Aid for Scientific Research (B)
财政年份：
2003
资助国家：
日本
起止时间：
2003 至 2005
项目状态：
已结题

项目摘要

It was shown that the changes in the specific items such as buttock girth and waist girth were observed in the measurement for young and aged women between standing and sitting postures. The buttock girth of aged women was higher than the one of young women in increasing ratio between standing and sitting postures. It was possible to classify into some groups such as young and aged ones, and their body forms using Principal Component Analysis. There were obvious differences in body form between aged women in good health and women in asylum for the aged.In this study, one of the important thing is to apply stretch materials in the design of pants considering the sitting posture. Although the stretchability of seam is closely related with the occurrence of seam grinning, it was possible to apply to sewing process by considering the characteristics of sewing machines (stitch type) and adjusting sewing tension, thread balance, stitch density and etc.As for the construction of pants, it was necessary to cut and open the original pattern at back crotch and buttock parts respectively. The appropriate "cut and opened effect" was useful for the good appearance of pants. A good relation was obtained irrespective of body form between the ratio of "the total length (LE') from crotch to back center of the cut and opened pattern considering the stretchability of fabric parts to corresponding length (LP) of the original pattern" and the ratio of "the length (L) slipped down at the back waist in the sitting posture to LP". The relation between (L/LP) and (LE'/LP) will present useful information how to cut and open the original pattern.

结果表明，青年妇女和老年妇女在站姿和坐姿测量中，胸围和腰围等具体项目都有变化。站姿和坐姿的比例增加，老年女性的臀围高于年轻女性。用主成分分析法可以把它们分成几组，如年轻的和老年的，以及它们的体型。健康老年妇女与老年妇女在体型上存在明显差异，在本研究中，考虑坐姿的特点，在裤装设计中应用弹性材料是一个重要的研究内容。虽然接缝的拉伸性与接缝露齿的发生密切相关，但通过考虑缝纫机的特性（线迹类型）并调整缝纫张力、线平衡、线迹密度等，可以将其应用于缝纫工艺。至于裤子的构造，需要在后裆和后裆部分分别切割和打开原始图案。适当的“裁开效果”有利于裤子的美观。无论体型如何，在“考虑到织物部分的拉伸性的从裁剪和打开的图案的裆部到背部中心的总长度（LE '）与原始图案的相应长度（LP）的比率”和“在坐姿下在后腰处滑下的长度（L）与LP的比率”之间获得了良好的关系。（L/LP）和（LE '/LP）之间的关系将提供如何切割和打开原始图案的有用信息。