DEVELOPMENT OF NUMERICAL ANALYSIS METHOD AND INTERNAL MECHANISM OF BREAKING WAVE ON ARBITRARY BOUNDARY SHAPE CONDITION

本研究旨在弄清波浪破碎的内在机理，建立波浪破碎过程中涡旋和湍流引起的能量耗散的数值模型，并开发出任意边界条件下波浪变形和破碎波的数值分析系统。试验研究我们做了多种类型的破碎波试验，包括斜坡上的行波和潜堤作用下的破碎波，直立墙前的驻波和管道的破碎波浪力。根据实验数据计算了涡量、湍流、雷诺应力应变等的变化，并研究了它们在时间和空间上的分布。从这些实验结果可以清楚地看出，破碎波过程中的能量耗散受Prandtl型雷诺应力和加速项随时间变化的雷诺应变的影响。由于这一破碎波现象是粘性流体的一个严重的非线性非定常问题，理论研究采用了S-M-A-C方法来更精确地计算破碎波过程。作为一种快速的计算条件，为了考察破碎波内部的物理量，在改进的S M-A-C方法的基础上，利用作者开发的F-E-M方法对波浪破碎过程进行了模拟分析。建立了由水障冲刷和破水湍动引起的破碎波能量耗散的数值模型。该模型很好地模拟了波浪的破碎过程。

THIS RESEARCH HAS TAKEN TO CLEAR THE INTERNAL MECHANISM OF BREAKING WAVE, AND TO PRESENT THE NUMERICAL MODEL OF ENERGY DISSIPATION CAUSED BY VOLTEX AND TURBULENCE IN WAVE BREAKING PROCESS, AND TO DEVELOP THE NUMERICAL ANALYSIS SYSTEM OF WAVE DEFORMATION AND BREAKING WAVE ON ARBITRARY BOUNDARY CONDITION.1. EXPERIMENTAL RESEARCHWE DID MANY TYPE EXPERIMENT OF BREAKING WAVE SUBJECTED TO A PROGRESSIVE WAVE ON SLOPE AND A SUBMERGED BREAKWATER, A STANDING WAVE IN FRONT OF VERTICAL WALL AND BREAKING WAVE FORCE OF A PIPE. VARIATION OF VOLTEX, TURBULENCE, REYNOLDS STRESS-STRAIN AND OTHERS WERE CALCULATED FROM EXPERIMENTAL DATAS AND THERE'S DISTRIBUTION IN TIME AND SPACE WERE INVESTIGATED. FROM THESE EXPERIMENTAL RESULTS, IT BECAME CLEAR THAT THE ENERGY DISSIPATION IN BREAKING WAVE PROCESS IS SUBJECTED TO REYNOLDS STRESS OF PRANDTL TYPE AND TIME-DEPENDENT REYNOLDS STRAIN AS TO ACCELERATION TERM.2. THEORITICAL RESEARCHWE APPLIED S M A C METHOD FOR MORE EXACT CALCULATION OF BREAKING WAVE PROCESS, BECAUSE THIS BREAKING WAVE PHENOMENON IS A HEAVY NONLINEAR AND UNSTEADY PROBLEM OF VISCOUS FLUID. AS A FAST CONDITION OF CALCULATION, USING F E M DEVELOPED BY AUTHOR, SIMULATION ANALYSIS OF THE BREAKING PROCESS OF WAVES WAS PERFORMED ON THE BASIS OF THE MODIFIED S M A C METHOD IN ORDER TO EXAMINE THE PHYSICAL QUANTITIES INSIDE THE BREAKING WAVES. AN NUMERICAL MODEL OF ENERGY DISSIPATION OF THE BREAKING WAVE WAS SET UP, WHICH WAS CAUSED BY RUSH OF WATER BLOCK AND TURBULENCE IN BREAKING WATER. THIS MODEL SIMULATES THE BREAKING PROCESS OF WAVES IN GOOD AGREEMENT.