Development of New Textile Finishing Process for the Protein Fibers Aiming High Level of Recycled Use

我们尝试用从真丝或羊毛纤维中提取的整理剂对真丝或羊毛织物进行整理。这个方案的主要特点是所有的成品都是由蛋白质组成的。这意味着织物和助剂的相容性非常高，这些纤维的回收利用将变得容易，因为它不需要分离成成分材料的过程。根据该方案，我们得到了以下结果。研究了蚕丝蛋白的结构和性能与日粮的关系，发现丝素蛋白的结构和性能几乎与日粮无关，而丝胶蛋白的结构和性能则与日粮有关。经琥珀酰化处理后，羊毛纤维的输水性能得到改善。研究了毛、丝纤维在整理过程中的结构变化。建立了用反相液相色谱法分析溶胀状态的新方法。采用针冲法制备了织带真丝非织造布，并对织带真丝非织造布的多孔结构进行了研究。用丝胶处理真丝织物后，织物的手感和力学性能发生了较大的变化。

We attempted to finish the fabrics made of silk or wool by using the finishing agents extracted from silk or wool fibers. The main feature of this scheme is that all finished products are made of proteins only. This means that the compatibility of fabric and agents are very high, and recycled use of these fibers will become easy since it does not need the process for separating into component materials. According to this scheme, we obtained following results. Structure and properties of silk proteins were investigated in relation to the silkworm diet, and found that structure and properties of silk fibroin are almost independent on the diet, but those of silk sericin are dependent on the diet. Wool fibers were succinylated and their water transport behavior was found to be improved. Structural changes of wool and silk fibers during the finishing process were investigated. New methodology was developed to analyze those in particularly under swelling state, by using inverse liquid chromatography. Spun laced silk nonwoven fabrics were developed by needle punching method, and their porous structure was investigated in relation to the manufacturing process. Silk fabrics were treated only with sericin, and their handle and mechanical properties were found to be changed considerably.