Development of New Textile Finishing Process for the Protein Fibers Aiming High Level of Recycled Use

我们尝试用从丝或毛纤维中提取的整理剂对丝或毛织物进行整理。该方案的主要特点是所有成品仅由蛋白质制成。这意味着织物和试剂的相容性非常高，并且这些纤维的回收利用将变得容易，因为它不需要分离成组分材料的过程。根据这个方案，我们得到了以下结果。研究了蚕丝蛋白的结构和性质与蚕饲料的关系，发现蚕丝丝素蛋白的结构和性质几乎不受饲料的影响，而蚕丝丝胶蛋白的结构和性质则受饲料的影响。羊毛纤维经琥珀酰化处理后，其水分传输性能得到改善。研究了羊毛和蚕丝在整理过程中纤维结构的变化。建立了反相液相色谱法分析溶胀状态下聚合物的新方法。采用针刺法开发了绢丝花边非织造布，研究了针刺法制备绢丝花边非织造布的工艺条件对多孔结构的影响。真丝织物经纯丝胶处理后，手感和力学性能均有较大变化。

We attempted to finish the fabrics made of silk or wool by using the finishing agents extracted from silk or wool fibers. The main feature of this scheme is that all finished products are made of proteins only. This means that the compatibility of fabric and agents are very high, and recycled use of these fibers will become easy since it does not need the process for separating into component materials. According to this scheme, we obtained following results. Structure and properties of silk proteins were investigated in relation to the silkworm diet, and found that structure and properties of silk fibroin are almost independent on the diet, but those of silk sericin are dependent on the diet. Wool fibers were succinylated and their water transport behavior was found to be improved. Structural changes of wool and silk fibers during the finishing process were investigated. New methodology was developed to analyze those in particularly under swelling state, by using inverse liquid chromatography. Spun laced silk nonwoven fabrics were developed by needle punching method, and their porous structure was investigated in relation to the manufacturing process. Silk fabrics were treated only with sericin, and their handle and mechanical properties were found to be changed considerably.