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Subaltern Histories of Global Textiles: Connecting Collections, Expanding Engagement

全球纺织品的底层历史：连接系列，扩大参与度

基本信息

批准号：
AH/W005662/1
负责人：
Meha Priyadarshini
金额：
$ 6万
依托单位：
University of Edinburgh
依托单位国家：
英国
项目类别：
Research Grant
财政年份：
2022
资助国家：
英国
起止时间：
2022 至无数据
项目状态：
已结题

来源：
https://gtr.ukri.org/projects?ref=AH%2FW005662%2F1
关键词：
Subaltern Histories Global Textiles Connecting

项目摘要

This project aims to re-centre the global history of Indian and Indian-imitation textiles in the eighteenth and nineteenth centuries from White Euro-American markets to African-diasporic American markets. The significance of this re-centring is far-reaching: White Euro-American consumption patterns have been the focus for much of dress and textile research, with the result that White Euro-American tastes have been credited for major shifts in global textile production, circulation, and use. By contrast, the influence and impacts of other consumer markets on global trade has been under-investigated. As a result, a majority of fashion and textile design histories as presented in museums and other educational contexts reflect only a limited range of stories that then subsequently connect with only a limited range of visitors. To address this imbalance, we propose a born-digital project focusing on Indian and Indian-imitation textile use by the African diaspora in the Americas, exploring their wider connections to, and impact on, global production and consumption networks. By re-centring the history of these textiles on Black consumers in the Americas, this project aligns with wider decolonisation work in the humanities and engages communities whose contributions to global cultures of textiles and fashion have historically been ignored.This project will be the first of its kind to bring together leading design history institutions in the UK and US to investigate understudied objects and connected histories in their collections. Our research is grounded in, and knits together, three collections: the Victoria and Albert Museum in London (V&A), the University of Glasgow Archives & Special Collections (ASC), and the Cooper Hewitt Smithsonian Design Museum in New York. By aggregating relevant metadata from three different collections, this project will produce a rich research resource in the form of a public-facing website offering interactive, image-annotated narrative maps linking related visual, textual, and archival materials via standardised vocabulary and cataloguing formats. The visualizations and other supplementary materials will also be made available via a robust social media engagement plan to reach the public where they are in the digital sphere. Importantly, as an open-access, born-digital project, scholars working around the world will be able to easily conduct cross-collection research from the project's metadata, as well as use our model for translations between distinct institutional schemas in future research projects connecting similar collections. Our aim is to contribute to both the decolonisation of the humanities by highlighting the impacts of under-represented consumers to global cultures of fashion, and to wider reassessments of the responsibilities of heritage institutions in the twenty-first century and the potential of digital scholarship to contribute to the work of decolonisation.

该项目旨在重新定位18世纪和19世纪印度和仿印度纺织品的全球历史，从白人欧美市场到非洲移民美国市场。这种重新集中的意义是深远的：欧美白人的消费模式一直是许多服装和纺织品研究的焦点，其结果是，欧美白人的品味被认为是全球纺织品生产、流通和使用的主要转变的原因。相比之下，其他消费市场对全球贸易的影响和影响尚未得到充分调查。因此，在博物馆和其他教育背景下展示的大多数时装和纺织品设计历史只反映了有限范围的故事，随后也只与有限范围的游客联系起来。为了解决这种不平衡，我们提出了一个天生的数字项目，重点关注美洲非洲侨民对印度和仿印度纺织品的使用，探索他们与全球生产和消费网络的更广泛联系和影响。通过将这些纺织品的历史重新集中在美洲的黑人消费者身上，该项目与人文学科中更广泛的去殖民化工作保持一致，并吸引了那些对全球纺织品和时尚文化的贡献在历史上被忽视的社区。这个项目将是第一个将英国和美国领先的设计历史机构聚集在一起，调查未被研究的对象和他们收藏的相关历史。我们的研究基于并结合了三个收藏：伦敦维多利亚和阿尔伯特博物馆（V&A），格拉斯哥大学档案和特别收藏（ASC）以及纽约库珀休伊特史密森设计博物馆。通过聚合来自三个不同馆藏的相关元数据，该项目将以面向公众的网站的形式产生丰富的研究资源，该网站提供交互式、图像注释的叙事地图，通过标准化词汇和编目格式链接相关的视觉、文本和档案材料。可视化和其他补充材料也将通过一个强大的社会媒体参与计划提供，以便在数字领域接触到公众。重要的是，作为一个开放获取的数字项目，世界各地的学者将能够轻松地从项目的元数据中进行跨馆藏研究，并在未来连接类似馆藏的研究项目中使用我们的模型在不同的机构模式之间进行翻译。我们的目标是通过强调未被充分代表的消费者对全球时尚文化的影响，为人文学科的非殖民化做出贡献，并对21世纪遗产机构的责任进行更广泛的重新评估，以及数字学术为非殖民化工作做出贡献的潜力。