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Carousel of Consumption: design and meaning of retail spaces as platforms for value co-creation in circular fashion systems

消费旋转木马：零售空间作为循环时尚系统价值共创平台的设计和意义

基本信息

批准号：
2436017
负责人：
金额：
--
依托单位：
Loughborough University
依托单位国家：
英国
项目类别：
Studentship
财政年份：
2020
资助国家：
英国
起止时间：
2020 至无数据
项目状态：
已结题

来源：
https://gtr.ukri.org/projects?ref=studentship-2436017
关键词：
Carousel Consumption design meaning retail

项目摘要

The fashion industry has embraced the circular economy (CE) as a solution to interconnected problems of waste, pollution and resource scarcity. This research starts to identify and interrogate varied assumptions implicit in CE business models by investigating how these may play out in practice in fashion retail service scenarios. CE literature is largely focused on issues of production, describing design for new materials, products, recycling technologies and business models. Most approaches proposed so far heavily rely on customer behaviour change (Lofthouse & Prendeville, 2018; Kuzmina et al, 2018; Hobson, 2016), failing to consider their complex role as participating agents in consumption systems. Investigations into customer behaviour are often tightly focused on interactions with products, ignoring the dominant socio-cultural contexts which exert deep influence on expressions of identity, symbolic meaning, acquisition and decision-making. Developed from the industrial design and management literature, the CE conceptualisation is grounded in inferences from neoclassical economic and strategic management theory. Unfortunately, these foundations are often implied and therefore remain unarticulated. An explicit theoretical model which describes consumer-producer interactions and value creation or maintenance in the CE is lacking. This research presents initial findings from a critical discourse analysis of the literature on circular business models (CBMs). The analysis examines the rhetoric of CE literature to develop "a detailed description, explanation and critique of the ways dominant discourses (indirectly) influence such socially shared knowledge, attitudes and ideologies, namely through their role in the manufacture of concrete models" (Van Dijk, 1993). Further, it aims to identify and articulate assumptions inherent in the conceptualisation of CBMs, particularly in relation to customer participation in value co-creation. In doing so, the author aims to make explicit the unarticulated theoretical assumptions of the CE concept, a crucial first step in determining their coherence, validity and viability. The author adopts the lens of service-dominant logic to develop critical discussion of value creation theory in relation to the CE. S-D logic offers an understanding of market value which goes beyond utility and exchange to include phenomenological, subjective meaning (Vargo & Lusch, 2015). This lens acknowledges the role of branding and cultural influences on customer behaviour, which are of particular importance in fashion. Emphasising subjective meaning-making enables further understanding of the cultural process of "waste-making", or voluntary value destruction performed by the customer (Crocker, 2016). A pilot exercise will be conducted with Masters design students, in which implicit assumptions of CBMs are extrapolated to construct hypothetical scenarios for CE retail fashion customer experience. By going from theory to practice, we begin to evaluate their suitability to enable value co-creation throughout the customer journey. Initial qualitative data is discussed in terms of how the proposed scenarios create barriers or opportunities for customer participation. Scenarios are further developed and form part of a curated exhibition of circular concepts for public display. Members of the public will be invited to participate in the speculative customer journeys and express their thoughts and reactions. This will form the main qualitative data collection. The research aims to falsify or validate the identified assumptions or inferences about the market viability of the models, customer acceptance and value creation inherent in the CE discourse and conceptualisation of CBMs.

时尚界已将循环经济 (CE) 视为解决浪费、污染和资源稀缺等相互关联问题的解决方案。本研究通过调查消费电子商业模式在时尚零售服务场景的实践中如何发挥作用，开始识别和质疑隐含在消费电子商业模式中的各种假设。 CE 文献主要关注生产问题，描述新材料、产品、回收技术和商业模式的设计。迄今为止提出的大多数方法严重依赖于客户行为变化（Lofthouse & Prendeville，2018；Kuzmina 等人，2018；Hobson，2016），未能考虑他们作为消费系统中参与代理的复杂角色。对顾客行为的调查往往紧紧关注与产品的互动，忽视了对身份表达、象征意义、购买和决策产生深刻影响的主导社会文化背景。 CE 概念化源自工业设计和管理文献，以新古典经济和战略管理理论的推论为基础。不幸的是，这些基础常常是隐含的，因此仍然没有明确阐明。缺乏一个明确的理论模型来描述消费电子中的消费者-生产者互动以及价值创造或维护。本研究提出了对循环商业模式 (CBM) 文献进行批判性话语分析的初步结果。该分析考察了CE文献的修辞，以发展“对主导话语（间接）影响此类社会共享知识、态度和意识形态的方式的详细描述、解释和批评，即通过它们在具体模型制造中的作用”（Van Dijk，1993）。此外，它的目的是识别和阐明 CBM 概念化中固有的假设，特别是与客户参与价值共同创造有关的假设。在此过程中，作者的目的是明确 CE 概念中未明确表达的理论假设，这是确定其连贯性、有效性和可行性的关键的第一步。作者采用服务主导逻辑的视角，对与 CE 相关的价值创造理论进行了批判性讨论。 S-D 逻辑提供了对市场价值的理解，它超越了效用和交换，包括现象学的、主观的意义（Vargo & Lusch，2015）。这个视角承认品牌和文化对顾客行为的影响，这在时尚界尤为重要。强调主观意义创造可以进一步理解“浪费”的文化过程，或者客户自愿破坏价值的过程（Crocker，2016）。将与设计硕士学生进行试点练习，其中推断 CBM 的隐含假设，以构建 CE 零售时尚客户体验的假设场景。通过从理论到实践，我们开始评估它们是否适合在整个客户旅程中实现价值共同创造。初始定性数据根据所提出的场景如何为客户参与创造障碍或机会进行讨论。场景得到进一步发展，并成为公共展示的循环概念策划展览的一部分。将邀请公众参与推测性客户旅程并表达他们的想法和反应。这将形成主要的定性数据收集。该研究旨在证伪或验证关于模型市场可行性、客户接受度以及 CE 话语和 CBM 概念化中固有的价值创造的已确定假设或推论。