Carousel of Consumption: design and meaning of retail spaces as platforms for value co-creation in circular fashion systems

消费旋转木马：零售空间作为循环时尚系统价值共创平台的设计和意义

基本信息

批准号：
2436017
负责人：
金额：
--
依托单位：
Loughborough University
依托单位国家：
英国
项目类别：
Studentship
财政年份：
2020
资助国家：
英国
起止时间：
2020 至无数据
项目状态：
已结题

来源：
https://gtr.ukri.org/projects?ref=studentship-2436017
关键词：
Carousel Consumption design meaning retail

项目摘要

The fashion industry has embraced the circular economy (CE) as a solution to interconnected problems of waste, pollution and resource scarcity. This research starts to identify and interrogate varied assumptions implicit in CE business models by investigating how these may play out in practice in fashion retail service scenarios. CE literature is largely focused on issues of production, describing design for new materials, products, recycling technologies and business models. Most approaches proposed so far heavily rely on customer behaviour change (Lofthouse & Prendeville, 2018; Kuzmina et al, 2018; Hobson, 2016), failing to consider their complex role as participating agents in consumption systems. Investigations into customer behaviour are often tightly focused on interactions with products, ignoring the dominant socio-cultural contexts which exert deep influence on expressions of identity, symbolic meaning, acquisition and decision-making. Developed from the industrial design and management literature, the CE conceptualisation is grounded in inferences from neoclassical economic and strategic management theory. Unfortunately, these foundations are often implied and therefore remain unarticulated. An explicit theoretical model which describes consumer-producer interactions and value creation or maintenance in the CE is lacking. This research presents initial findings from a critical discourse analysis of the literature on circular business models (CBMs). The analysis examines the rhetoric of CE literature to develop "a detailed description, explanation and critique of the ways dominant discourses (indirectly) influence such socially shared knowledge, attitudes and ideologies, namely through their role in the manufacture of concrete models" (Van Dijk, 1993). Further, it aims to identify and articulate assumptions inherent in the conceptualisation of CBMs, particularly in relation to customer participation in value co-creation. In doing so, the author aims to make explicit the unarticulated theoretical assumptions of the CE concept, a crucial first step in determining their coherence, validity and viability. The author adopts the lens of service-dominant logic to develop critical discussion of value creation theory in relation to the CE. S-D logic offers an understanding of market value which goes beyond utility and exchange to include phenomenological, subjective meaning (Vargo & Lusch, 2015). This lens acknowledges the role of branding and cultural influences on customer behaviour, which are of particular importance in fashion. Emphasising subjective meaning-making enables further understanding of the cultural process of "waste-making", or voluntary value destruction performed by the customer (Crocker, 2016). A pilot exercise will be conducted with Masters design students, in which implicit assumptions of CBMs are extrapolated to construct hypothetical scenarios for CE retail fashion customer experience. By going from theory to practice, we begin to evaluate their suitability to enable value co-creation throughout the customer journey. Initial qualitative data is discussed in terms of how the proposed scenarios create barriers or opportunities for customer participation. Scenarios are further developed and form part of a curated exhibition of circular concepts for public display. Members of the public will be invited to participate in the speculative customer journeys and express their thoughts and reactions. This will form the main qualitative data collection. The research aims to falsify or validate the identified assumptions or inferences about the market viability of the models, customer acceptance and value creation inherent in the CE discourse and conceptualisation of CBMs.

时装界已将循环经济（CE）作为解决废物，污染和资源稀缺问题的解决方案。这项研究开始通过调查在时尚零售服务方案中如何在实践中介绍这些假设，从而识别和询问CE业务模型中隐含的各种假设。 CE文献主要集中在生产问题上，描述了新材料，产品，回收技术和商业模式的设计。到目前为止，大多数提出的方法都在很大程度上依赖于客户行为变化（Lofthouse＆Prendeville，2018； Kuzmina等人，2018年； Hobson，2016），未能将其作为消费系统的参与代理人的复杂作用。对客户行为的调查通常紧密地集中在与产品的互动上，而忽略了对身份，象征意义，获取和决策的表达产生深远影响的主要社会文化背景。 CE概念化是根据工业设计和管理文献开发的，基于新古典经济和战略管理理论的推论。不幸的是，这些基础通常是暗示的，因此仍然没有明确的含义。缺乏描述CE中消费者相互作用和价值创造或维护的明确理论模型。这项研究提出了对循环商业模型文献（CBM）的批判性话语分析的初步发现。该分析研究了CE文献的言论，以开发“对主导论述（间接）影响这种社会共同的知识，态度和意识形态的详细描述，解释和批评，即通过它们在混凝土模型的制造中的作用”（Van Dijk，1993）。此外，它旨在确定和阐明CBM概念化固有的假设，尤其是与客户参与价值共同创造有关的假设。为此，作者旨在使CE概念的未明确理论假设明确，这是确定其连贯性，有效性和可行性的关键第一步。作者采用了服务主导逻辑的镜头，以与CE相关的价值创造理论进行批判性讨论。 S-D Logic提供了对市场价值的理解，该价值超出了实用性和交换，包括现象学，主观含义（Vargo＆Lusch，2015年）。该镜头承认品牌和文化影响对客户行为的作用，这在时尚中尤其重要。强调主观的意义创造可以进一步了解“废物制造”或客户进行的自愿价值破坏的文化过程（Crocker，2016）。将与硕士设计专业的学生一起进行试点练习，在该学生中，CBM的隐性假设被推断为为CE零售时尚客户体验构建假设场景。通过从理论到实践，我们开始评估他们的适用性，以在整个客户的旅程中实现价值共同创造。根据建议的方案如何为客户参与创造障碍或机会，讨论了最初的定性数据。场景得到了进一步的开发，并构成了用于公开展示的圆形概念展览的一部分。将邀请公众参加投机性客户旅程并表达他们的思想和反应。这将构成主要的定性数据收集。该研究旨在伪造或验证有关模型市场可行性的确定的假设或推论，客户接受和价值创造在CE话语和CBM的概念化中固有的。