Carousel of Consumption: design and meaning of retail spaces as platforms for value co-creation in circular fashion systems

时尚行业已经接受了循环经济（CE）作为解决废物，污染和资源稀缺等相互关联的问题的解决方案。本研究通过调查CE商业模式中隐含的各种假设在时尚零售服务场景中如何发挥作用，开始识别和询问这些假设。CE文献主要集中在生产问题上，描述了新材料，产品，回收技术和商业模式的设计。到目前为止，提出的大多数方法都严重依赖于客户行为的改变（Lofthouse & Prendeville，2018; Kuzmina et al，2018;霍布森，2016），没有考虑他们作为消费系统中参与代理人的复杂角色。对消费者行为的调查往往紧紧集中在与产品的互动上，忽视了对身份表达、象征意义、购买和决策产生深刻影响的主导社会文化背景。从工业设计和管理文献中发展而来，CE概念化基于新古典经济和战略管理理论的推论。不幸的是，这些基础往往是隐含的，因此仍然没有得到阐明。缺乏一个明确的理论模型来描述消费者-生产者的互动和价值创造或维护的CE。本研究提出了初步的研究结果，从批评话语分析的文献循环商业模式（CBM）。该分析考察了CE文学的修辞，以发展“一个详细的描述，解释和批评的方式占主导地位的话语（间接）影响这种社会共享的知识，态度和意识形态，即通过他们的作用，在具体的模型制造”（货车Dijk，1993年）。此外，它旨在确定和阐明建立信任措施概念化中固有的假设，特别是与客户参与价值共同创造有关的假设。在这样做的时候，作者的目的是明确的CE概念，在确定其连贯性，有效性和可行性的关键的第一步未阐明的理论假设。本文从服务主导逻辑的透镜出发，展开了对价值创造理论的批判性讨论。S-D逻辑提供了对市场价值的理解，超越了效用和交换，包括现象学，主观意义（Vargo & Lusch，2015）。这个透镜承认品牌和文化对顾客行为的影响，这在时尚界尤为重要。强调主观意义的创造可以进一步理解“浪费”的文化过程，或客户自愿进行的价值破坏（克罗克，2016）。将与硕士设计专业的学生进行试点练习，其中隐含的假设的CBM外推构建假设的情景，CE零售时尚客户体验。通过从理论到实践，我们开始评估它们的适用性，以便在整个客户旅程中实现价值共同创造。初步定性数据的讨论方面如何提出的方案创造障碍或机会，客户参与。场景被进一步开发，并形成一个公共展示的循环概念策划展览的一部分。公众将被邀请参加投机客户之旅，并表达他们的想法和反应。这将构成主要的定性数据收集。 该研究的目的是伪造或验证识别的假设或推断的市场可行性的模型，客户接受度和价值创造固有的CE话语和概念化的CBM。

The fashion industry has embraced the circular economy (CE) as a solution to interconnected problems of waste, pollution and resource scarcity. This research starts to identify and interrogate varied assumptions implicit in CE business models by investigating how these may play out in practice in fashion retail service scenarios. CE literature is largely focused on issues of production, describing design for new materials, products, recycling technologies and business models. Most approaches proposed so far heavily rely on customer behaviour change (Lofthouse & Prendeville, 2018; Kuzmina et al, 2018; Hobson, 2016), failing to consider their complex role as participating agents in consumption systems. Investigations into customer behaviour are often tightly focused on interactions with products, ignoring the dominant socio-cultural contexts which exert deep influence on expressions of identity, symbolic meaning, acquisition and decision-making. Developed from the industrial design and management literature, the CE conceptualisation is grounded in inferences from neoclassical economic and strategic management theory. Unfortunately, these foundations are often implied and therefore remain unarticulated. An explicit theoretical model which describes consumer-producer interactions and value creation or maintenance in the CE is lacking. This research presents initial findings from a critical discourse analysis of the literature on circular business models (CBMs). The analysis examines the rhetoric of CE literature to develop "a detailed description, explanation and critique of the ways dominant discourses (indirectly) influence such socially shared knowledge, attitudes and ideologies, namely through their role in the manufacture of concrete models" (Van Dijk, 1993). Further, it aims to identify and articulate assumptions inherent in the conceptualisation of CBMs, particularly in relation to customer participation in value co-creation. In doing so, the author aims to make explicit the unarticulated theoretical assumptions of the CE concept, a crucial first step in determining their coherence, validity and viability. The author adopts the lens of service-dominant logic to develop critical discussion of value creation theory in relation to the CE. S-D logic offers an understanding of market value which goes beyond utility and exchange to include phenomenological, subjective meaning (Vargo & Lusch, 2015). This lens acknowledges the role of branding and cultural influences on customer behaviour, which are of particular importance in fashion. Emphasising subjective meaning-making enables further understanding of the cultural process of "waste-making", or voluntary value destruction performed by the customer (Crocker, 2016). A pilot exercise will be conducted with Masters design students, in which implicit assumptions of CBMs are extrapolated to construct hypothetical scenarios for CE retail fashion customer experience. By going from theory to practice, we begin to evaluate their suitability to enable value co-creation throughout the customer journey. Initial qualitative data is discussed in terms of how the proposed scenarios create barriers or opportunities for customer participation. Scenarios are further developed and form part of a curated exhibition of circular concepts for public display. Members of the public will be invited to participate in the speculative customer journeys and express their thoughts and reactions. This will form the main qualitative data collection. The research aims to falsify or validate the identified assumptions or inferences about the market viability of the models, customer acceptance and value creation inherent in the CE discourse and conceptualisation of CBMs.