Morphological signature of the March 2008 swell event on Caribbean beaches

2008 年 3 月加勒比海滩海浪事件的形态特征

• 批准号: NE/G001545/1
• 负责人: James Cooper
• 金额: $ 3.06万
• 依托单位: University of Ulster
• 依托单位国家: 英国
• 项目类别: Research Grant
• 财政年份: 2008
• 资助国家: 英国
• 起止时间: 2008 至 无数据
• 项目状态: 已结题
• 来源: https://gtr.ukri.org/projects?ref=NE%2FG001545%2F1
• 关键词: Morphological; signature; March; 2008; swell

Extreme waves often produce the most dramatic impacts on depositional shorelines because they exceed normal sedimentary thresholds, reaching areas that are often above the influence of waves and transporting material that is otherwise stable. Extreme waves occur infrequently but often have the dominant influenec on coastal behaviour over several decades or even centuries. They can be generated by different processes. Waves and surges associated with hurricanes and tsunami are well known for their dramatic impact on coastlines of the Caribbean and Gulf of Mexico. Several hurricanes occur in the region annually and every year some islands are affected. However, their impact at any location depends on their path relative to a particular coast. While they can be devastating, their impacts are often quite localised. Thus on any given island they are a relatively infrequent occurrence. Caribbean tsunami too, have a quite localised influence; they do not have the large scale influence of those in the indian Ocean or Pacific. Large swell waves, in contrast, are generated by distant storms and spread over a large area as they radiate from their point of origin. They are consequently a more frequent occurrence on many Caribbean island shorelines than hurricanes and tsunamis and anecdotal evidence suggests them to have an important influence on beach erosion and accretion. The impact of a large swell event in March 2008 was noted by observers throughout the western Caribbean from Guyana to Puerto Rico. In the British Virgin Islands coral was ripped from reefs and thrown inland or deposited on beaches; on exposed coasts beaches retreated by over 30m while on sheltered coasts the waves appeared to push sand onshore. This research project aims to investigate and record the impacts of this event around the British Virgin Islands and to thereby assess directly, the morphological effect of a swell wave event on Caribbean islands.

极端海浪往往对沉积海岸线产生最大的影响，因为它们超过了正常的沉积门槛，到达了通常高于海浪影响的区域，并输送了原本稳定的物质。极端海浪很少发生，但往往在几十年甚至几个世纪内对沿海行为产生主要影响。它们可以由不同的过程产生。与飓风和海啸有关的海浪和巨浪以其对加勒比和墨西哥湾海岸线的巨大影响而广为人知。该地区每年都会发生几次飓风，每年都会有一些岛屿受到影响。然而，它们对任何地点的影响取决于它们相对于特定海岸的路径。尽管它们可能是毁灭性的，但它们的影响往往是相当局部的。因此，在任何给定的岛屿上，它们都是相对较少发生的。加勒比海海啸也具有相当局部的影响；它们没有印度洋或太平洋海啸那样的大范围影响。相比之下，巨大的巨浪是由远处的风暴产生的，并在它们从起源点辐射时传播到大片区域。因此，在许多加勒比岛屿海岸线上，飓风和海啸比飓风和海啸更频繁发生，坊间证据表明，飓风和海啸对海滩侵蚀和淤积有重要影响。从圭亚那到波多黎各，整个西加勒比地区的观察员都注意到了2008年3月发生的一次大型海浪事件的影响。在英属维尔京群岛，珊瑚被从礁石上剥离，扔到内陆或存放在海滩上；在裸露的海岸，海滩后退了30多米，而在有遮挡的海岸，海浪似乎把沙子推到了岸上。这一研究项目旨在调查和记录这一事件对英属维尔京群岛周围的影响，从而直接评估巨浪事件对加勒比岛屿的形态影响。

项目成果

A groundswell event on the coast of the British Virgin Islands: spatial variability in morphological impact

英属维尔京群岛海岸的海浪事件：形态影响的空间变异

• DOI: 10.2112/si65-118.1
• 发表时间: 2013
• 期刊: Journal of Coastal Research
• 作者: Cooper J

Morphological impact of a high energy swell event on Caribbean island beaches

高能量涌浪事件对加勒比岛屿海滩的形态影响

• 发表时间: 2012
• 作者: Cooper, J.A.G.