Exploring mycelium/mushroom derived leather dyeing applications, using food-waste derived dyes, for the development of sustainable fashion products

该项目是SAGES、Osmose Studio和克兰菲尔德大学的合作项目。该项目将测试和改进SAGES食品废物衍生染料应用于Osmose菌丝体皮革的三种不同方法。**对生物基皮革的需求 **_** 传统皮革 **_皮革对环境和人类健康有着灾难性的影响。为了满足时尚行业的需求，每年有超过5000万只动物被饲养和宰杀以制作皮革[Stella McCartney，2021];这导致了农田森林的破坏和甲烷的释放。随着对皮革的需求预计将从2022年到2030年翻一番，显然需要更清洁和更可再生的皮革来源[Globenewswire，2022]。皮革需要鞣制，常用的化学品是铬（III），如果氧化就会变成铬（VI），这是一种已知的毒素和致癌物质。皮革鞣制也会产生有害的废水、固体废物、空气污染物，并使工人暴露于有害的化学物质中。瑞典和意大利的皮革制革工人发现，患癌症的风险比预期高出20%到50%。目前，备受赞誉的“纯素皮革”主要是聚合物基的，不能生物降解。Osmose开发了一种生产Mykko的专有工艺：一种菌丝基皮革。为了将其推向市场并确保生物降解性，Mykko需要使用生物基染料创造一系列颜色。合成染料 **_尽管人类自古以来就知道染料，但直到世纪后期才开始制造合成形式的染料，这导致了一系列人类健康问题，包括膀胱癌的高发病率[Christie，2007\]，皮炎和中枢神经系统疾病等疾病[Khan & Malik，2018\]。合成染料现在主导着染色行业。染色过程中使用有毒化学品和重金属，使废水难以有效净化。这在中国、孟加拉国、泰国和印度尼西亚等仍然主导染色行业的国家是一个主要问题。SAGES是一家纺织行业的初创企业，从食物垃圾中生产天然染料。这些染料是一种基于生物的解决方案，可以解决工业上目前使用的有害合成染料。本项目已选择6种染料颜色进行进一步开发：粉红色、黄色、蓝色、绿色、珊瑚色、紫色。**我们的解决方案 **SAGES将与Osmose合作，测试一系列染色应用，以生产全生物基皮革。克兰菲尔德大学在材料创新方面拥有丰富的知识，并将为该项目提供专业知识

This project is a collaboration between SAGES, Osmose Studio and Cranfield University. The project will test and refining three different methods for the application of SAGES food-waste derived dyes to Osmose's mycelium-leather.**THE NEED FOR A BIO-BASED LEATHER**_**Traditional Leathers**_Leather has a disastrous impact on the environment and human health. To meet the demands of the fashion industry, over 50 million animals are reared and killed per year to make leather \[Stella McCartney,2021\]; contributing to destruction of forestry for farmland and the release of methane into the environment. With the demand for leather expected to double from 2022-2030, there is a clear need for cleaner and more renewable leather sources \[Globenewswire,2022\].Leather requires tanning and a common chemical used is chromium (III), which if oxidised becomes chromium (VI), a known toxin and carcinogen. Leather tanning also produces hazardous wastewater effluent, solid waste, air pollutants, and exposes workers to harmful chemicals \[EPA\]. Leather-tannery workers in Sweden and Italy, found cancer risks between 20% and 50% above those expected \[PETA\].Currently, praised 'vegan-leathers' are predominantly polymer-based which do not biodegrade.Osmose has developed a proprietary process for the creation of Mykko: a mycelium-based leather. In order to bring this to market and ensure biodegradeability, it is desirable for Mykko to come in a range of colours created using a bio-based dye._**Synthetic Dyes**_Although dyes have been known to mankind since ancient times, it was not until the late nineteenth century that synthetic forms began to be manufactured, causing a range of human health issues including high incidence of bladder cancer \[Christie,2007\], diseases such as dermatitis and disorders of the central nervous system \[Khan & Malik,2018\].Synthetics now dominate the dyeing industry. Toxic chemicals and heavy-metals are used during the dyeing process and make it difficult for waste-effluent to be effectively cleaned. This is a major problem in countries which still dominate the dyeing industry like China, Bangladesh, Thailand and Indonesia.SAGES is a textiles industry start up making natural dyes from food-waste. These dyes are a bio-based solution to the harmful synthetic dyes the industry currently uses. 6 dye colours have been selected for further development in this project Pink, Yellow, Blue, Green, Coral, Purple.**OUR SOLUTION**SAGES will work with Osmose to test a range of dyeing applications to create a fully bio-based leather. Cranfield University has extensive knowledge in material innovation and will provide expertise on this project