Between Diaspora and the 'Land of Israel': Jewish Dress, Migration and Belonging, 1880s-1948

在每个社会中，着装都表达着一种亲密的归属感和认同感。在考察移民社会时，对着装的关注尤其有益。在这些活动中，来自不同国家和背景的人对于一个人应该穿什么以及为什么穿着往往有非常不同的想法。这个项目着眼于普通移民在定义理想着装方面的作用。它调查了在一个移民社会中如何出现一种共识的着装模式，在这个社会中，人们对应该穿什么以及为什么穿、存在和竞争有不同的想法。它还研究了某些着装方式如何以及何时在社会中变得“时尚”。我将与一名博士后研究助理以及以色列和英国博物馆和遗产部门的项目合作伙伴密切合作，调查在移民时代作为一种归属感表达的着装主题的三个方面。首先，一本专著将着眼于以色列土地上历史上的移民社会中的着装。它考虑了从19世纪80年代开始向该地区大规模犹太人移民到1948年以色列建国之间的时期。该项目将调查东欧和德国移民如何通过着装表达他们的身份，以及他们如何能够强制执行理想的着装方式。它分析了视觉、书面和口头来源，展示了这些移民群体如何在新的故乡定义并延续某些穿着方式，如“合适的”、“理想的”和“民族的”。它还考察了当地阿拉伯人口的着装习惯以及不断变化的占领奥斯曼帝国和英国当局对这些着装理想的影响。该项目着眼于五个不同的历史背景，不同犹太(移民)群体的服装理想和实践在其中发生了冲突：19世纪的欧洲，奥斯曼帝国巴勒斯坦(1882-1918)，英国统治时期的城市圈和纺织业(1918-1948)，英国统治时期的农村圈(1918-1948)，以及纳粹占领的欧洲和英国统治时期(1934-1948)之间的“过渡”。通过观察服装，这个项目将使移民在国家建设中的作用变得明显。这将有助于理解移民社会中的包容和排斥过程，这些人来自截然不同的背景。第二，该项目将以此为起点，建立一个创新的全球协作研究议程和研究团队。我将举办一个国际在线会议，并编辑一本书，比较世界各地的着装和迁徙历史。我们将调查移民群体如何通过服装表达他们的归属感，以及移民群体如何在全球范围内影响服装理想和时尚。第三部分是与以色列和英国的遗产和博物馆部门的伙伴组织进行的一项雄心勃勃的接触工作计划。我将与这些项目伙伴举办两次讲习班，一次在耶路撒冷与Yad Ben Zvi研究所举办，另一次在莱斯特与莱斯特博物馆和美术馆举办，以这两个城市不同人口中的移民群体为目标。在工作坊中，参加者将被邀请携带一件衣服或衣服物品的照片。通过服装的镜头，我们将探索他们个人或他们的家庭的迁徙和遗产的历史。最后一场时装秀将展示选定的参与者以及他们关于着装和移民的故事。一名专业摄影师和录像师将记录这些活动和照片，选定的专业制作的视频片段将通过网站、YouTube频道和推特账户传播这些活动。

In every society, dress expresses intimate feelings of belonging and identity. A focus on dress is especially rewarding when looking at migrant societies. In these, people from diverse countries and background often have very different ideas of how one should dress and why. This project looks at the role of ordinary immigrants in defining dress ideals. It investigates how a consensual mode of dress emerges in a migrant society where different ideas of what 'one should wear' and why, exist, and compete. It also examines how and when certain ways of dressing become 'fashionable' in a society.I will work closely with a postdoctoral Research Associate and Israeli and British project partners in the museums and heritage sector, to investigate three strands which are united in their themes of dress as an expression of belonging in times of migration. First, a monograph will look at dress in the historical migrant society in the 'Land of Israel'. It considers the period between the 1880s, when large scale Jewish migration to the region began, until 1948 when the Israeli state was founded. The project will investigate how Eastern European and German immigrants to the region expressed their identity through dress and how they were able to enforce ideal ways of dressing. It analyses visual, written, and oral sources to show how these migrant groups defined and perpetuated certain ways of dressing as 'appropriate', 'ideal' and 'national' in the new homeland. It also examines the influence of the dress habits of the local Arab population and the changing occupying Ottoman and British authorities on these dress ideals. The project looks at five different historical settings in which dress ideals and practices of different Jewish (migrant) groups conflicted: Europe in the 19th century, Ottoman Palestine (1882-1918), the urban sphere and textile industry of the British Mandate (1918-1948), the rural sphere of the British Mandate (1918-1948), and 'in transit' between Nazi-occupied Europe and the British Mandate (1934 - 1948). By looking at dress, this project will make the role of immigrants in nation building visible. This will help to understand processes of inclusion and exclusion in a migrant society with individuals from vastly different backgrounds.Second, the project will use this as starting point to build an innovative global collaborative research agenda and research team. I will run an international online conference and edit a book that will compare histories of dress and migration across the world. We will investigate how migrant groups expressed their feelings of belonging through dress and how migrant groups influenced dress ideals and 'fashion' globally. The third strand is an ambitious programme of engagement work with partner organisations from the heritage and museums sector in Israel and the UK. I will hold two workshops with these project partners, one in Jerusalem with the Yad Ben Zvi Institute, and one in Leicester with Leicester Museums and Galleries, which target migrant groups from the diverse populations in the two cities. In the workshops, participants will be invited to bring an item of dress or photographs of dress items. Through the lens of dress, we will explore their personal or their family's history of migration and heritage. A final fashion show will showcase selected participants and their stories of dress and migration. A professional photographer and videographer will document these activities and photographs and selected professionally produced videoclips will disseminate these activities through a website, a YouTube channel and Twitter account.