Tools, Skill and Identity: The Work of British Manufacturing Jewellers, 1945-1965

研究的重点是1945年至1965年间英国制造珠宝商的工作，因为他们从生产武装部队装备转向了更新的珠宝制造。主要的研究问题是，物理（机械、工具、材料和珠宝）和社会（男性和女性；熟练工人、半熟练工人和学徒工人）战后车间如何促进新的制作方法，并在珠宝商中确定工匠身份？我将对车间对机器的重新利用提出问题，以了解制造者对角色和工具的分配，以及它们与技能概念的联系。我将询问物质限制、购置税和公众消费方式如何影响制造者、物质和社会网络。研究将询问工人如何回应男性气概、阶级和教育的概念，以了解他们帮助制定的变化。1965年，V&A和金匠公司（Goldsmiths’Company）举办了重要的国际现代珠宝展（International Exhibition of Modern Jewellery），标志着珠宝生产的转变。对这些变化的关注将为战后劳工和英国工艺的历史编纂贡献新的知识。现有的学术研究很少关注珠宝商，而以贸易为主导的研究则强调设计；这个项目通过关注创客将两者结合起来。研究建立在“国民生活故事的工艺生活”的基础上，其中包括三位战后工作的设计师兼珠宝商的口述历史。在这项研究中，来自大型车间的珠宝商的口述历史对于理解这一时期生产大多数珠宝的大规模生产至关重要。这项研究将为目前关于采用新技术及其对劳动力分配、车间社会等级和职业教育的影响的生产辩论提供见解。研究建立在我的硕士论文英国珠宝商的技能适应战争工作，1939年至1945年和我的专业研究珠宝贸易。我在理论和实践社区的地位塑造了我的方法论：我将追求基于对象的工具、机器、材料和珠宝的分析，这些工具、机器、材料和珠宝在战后时期对珠宝商很重要，同时还有档案研究和口述历史。行业协会和企业档案和物资供应的经济数据揭示了制造商、行业委员会和政府之间的关系。我将使用设计史、人类学和社会学的理论来解释资料来源，包括行动者网络理论和“去技能化”辩论。这些方法共同反映了影响战后制造者的许多因素。位于V&A/RCA设计历史博士学位，艺术与人文学院（SoAH），以及珠宝与金属（J&M）的第二导师，使我处于先进的历史和应用艺术实践研究小组中。

Research focuses on the work of British manufacturing jewellers between 1945 and 1965 as they moved from production of Armed Forces equipment to renewed jewellery manufacture. The main research question asks how did the physical (machinery, tools, materials and jewels) and social (male and female; skilled, semi-skilled and apprentice workers) post-war workshop contribute to new methods of making and identifying as a craftsperson amongst jewellers? I will problematise workshops' repurposing of machinery to understand makers' distributions of roles and tools and their link to concepts of skill. I will ask how material restrictions, Purchase Tax and public approaches to consumption influenced makers and material and social networks. Research will question how workers responded to concepts of masculinity, class and education to understand the changes they helped enact. The research period closes in 1965 following the V&A and Goldsmiths' Company's pivotal International Exhibition of Modern Jewellery, which marked a shift in production.Attention to these changes will contribute new knowledge to historiographies of post-war labour and British craft. Existing academic research focuses little on jewellers, whilst trade-led research emphasises design; this project unites both strands by focusing on makers. Research builds on the National Life Stories' Craft Lives, which includes oral histories of three designer-jewellers working post-war. New oral histories of jewellers from larger workshops conducted in this research are vital in understanding larger-scale production that generated most jewels in this period. The research will provide insight for current production debates about the adoption of new technology and its impact on labour distribution, workshop social hierarchy and vocational education.Research builds on my MA dissertation on British jewellers' adaptation of skills to war work, 1939-1945 and my professional research in the jewellery trade. My position in theory and practice communities shapes my methodologies: I will pursue object-based analysis of tools, machines, materials and jewels important to jewellers in the post-war period alongside archival research and oral history. Trade association and business archives and economic data of material supply reveal relationships between makers, trade councils and the government. I will interpret sources using theory from design history, anthropology and sociology, including Actor-network theory and 'deskilling' debates. These methods together reflect the many influences impacting post-war makers. Location in the V&A/RCA PhD in History of Design, School of Arts and Humanities (SoAH), and a second supervisor in Jewellery and Metal (J&M), situates me within advanced historical and applied art practice-based research groups.