Composite properties of hair: Insights from selective modification and characterisation

该项目的重点是描述人类头发的性质，并开发新技术，以选择性地修改纤维并改善纤维性能。该项目方法的一个关键要素是建立一系列分析技术，如湿差示扫描量热法、扫描电子显微镜和Diastron拉伸分析仪。头发纤维，像其他角蛋白纤维一样，具有影响纤维的宏观物理和化学性质的微观结构特征。这些区域含有不同的蛋白质和脂质，这些蛋白质和脂质可以在洗涤、漂白、烫发、阳光照射和热定型过程中从纤维中降解或丢失。通过更好地理解选择性去除或添加的效果，可以提高整体纤维性能。该项目将在项目持续期间重点关注关键可交付成果，时间轴为：-去除游离和表面结合脂质：第1年。开发选择性脂质去除工艺，并评估表面润湿性，摩擦和吸附特性; -从细胞膜复合物中去除游离和结合脂质：第1年。开发选择性的脂质去除过程，并评估弯曲磨损，纤维断裂和拉伸强度; -选择性去除角质层而不改变皮质特性：第2年。开发选择性的角质层去除工艺，并评估染料、氧化性和还原性化学品在没有表面角质层“屏障”的情况下渗透到松散纤维中的情况。建立更大的敏感性的黑色素颗粒修改没有角质层存在; -选择性去除/更换基质蛋白质在皮质：第3年。化学处理可以降解蛋白质，导致结构损伤和质量损失。该项目将开发有针对性的工艺和保护剂，既能保持物理完整性，又能评估相容蛋白质的应用以“修复”损伤; -与联合利华确认并转让开发的方法和知识：第4年-撰写论文：第4年

The project will focus on characterising the nature of human hair and developing new technology to selectively modify the fibre and improve fibre performance. A key element in the project approach is to establish a range of analytical techniques such as Wet Differential Scanning Calorimetry, Scanning Electron Microscopy and the Diastron Tensile Analyser. The hair fibre, like other keratin fibres, has microstructural features that influence the macro-physical and chemical properties of the fibre. These regions contain distinct proteins and lipids that can be degraded or lost from the fibre during washing, bleaching, perming, sunlight exposure and heat styling. By better understanding the effect of selective removal or additions the overall fibre properties can be enhanced. The project will be focused over the duration of the project on key deliverables and the timeline is: - Removal of free and surface-bound lipids: Year 1. Develop selective lipid removal processes and evaluate surface wettability, friction and adsorption characteristics; - Removal of free and bound lipids from the cell membrane complex: Year 1. Develop selective lipid removal processes and evaluate flex abrasion, fibre fracture and tensile strength; - Selective removal of cuticle without changing cortex properties: Year 2. Develop selective cuticle removal processes and evaluate the penetration of dyes, oxidative and reductive chemicals into the bulk fibre without the surface cuticle "barrier" being present. Establish the greater sensitivity of the melanin granules to modification without the cuticle being present; - Selective removal/replacement of matrix proteins in the cortex: Year 3. Chemical treatments can degrade proteins giving rise to structural damage and loss of quality. The project will develop targeted processes and protective agents that can maintain physical integrity but also evaluate the application of compatible proteins to "repair" the damage; - Confirm and transfer developed methodologies and knowledge with Unilever: Year 4 - Write up thesis: Year 4