Understanding Extreme Nearshore Wave Events through Studies of Coastal Boulder Transport

通过研究沿海巨石迁移来了解极端近岸波浪事件

• 批准号: 1529756
• 负责人: Rónadh Cox
• 金额: $ 27.75万
• 依托单位: Williams College
• 依托单位国家: 美国
• 项目类别: Standard Grant
• 财政年份: 2015
• 资助国家: 美国
• 起止时间: 2015-08-15 至 2021-08-31
• 项目状态: 已结题
• 来源: https://www.nsf.gov/awardsearch/showAward?AWD_ID=1529756&HistoricalAwards=false
• 关键词: Understanding; Extreme; Nearshore; Wave; Events

A non-technical description of the project that explains the significance and importanceExceptionally severe storms in 2013-2014 transported very large boulders (50-430 metric tons) on Ireland's Aran Islands. Some of these boulders were tens of meters above sea level and some were hundreds of meters inland. This project will analyze these boulders together with meteorological information, numerical modeling, and physical modeling in a scaled wave tank, to detail the relationships between wave energy and the movement of heavy objects.This research will train undergraduate and graduate earth scientists in analysis of coastal erosion. School groups from the field locations in Ireland will be involved in the project as citizen scientists, and the results will be communicated to both professional organizations and local communities. The project will establish a predictive relationship between storm-wave power and the inland extent of boulder movement that can serve as an index of the destructive power of storms, which will be of value to coastal communities, policy makers, and coastal engineers as part of long-term coastal hazard assessment. This project is part of the US-Ireland Research and Development Partnership program and it is co-funded by the NSF Office of International Science and Engineering.A technical description of the projectThe project has three goals, which will be carried out via collaboration with researchers in Ireland. The first goal is to map topography and bathymetry of Ireland's Aran Islands, to collect pressure data from submerged sensors that will monitor wave heights in real time, and to continue monitoring year-to-year movement of coastal boulders. The second is to numerically model wave height augmentation in the coastal zone, to understand how storm waves are amplified to the point where they can move very large masses at great heights and distances inland. The third goal is to create a scaled wave-tank experiment combining the field measurements and numerical models, to provide additional constraints on physical processes happening as waves impact the shoreline. This integrated approach will provide an accurate assessment of near-shore high-energy processes that could be used to forecast inshore propagation of wave energy for specific sea states and coastal bathymetry.

该项目的非技术性描述解释了其意义和重要性 2013 年至 2014 年的异常严重的风暴在爱尔兰阿兰群岛运送了非常大的巨石（50-430 公吨）。这些巨石有的海拔数十米，有的在内陆数百米。该项目将在按比例的波浪池中分析这些巨石以及气象信息、数值模型和物理模型，以详细说明波浪能与重物运动之间的关系。该研究将培训本科生和研究生地球科学家分析海岸侵蚀。来自爱尔兰实地地点的学校团体将作为公民科学家参与该项目，结果将传达给专业组织和当地社区。该项目将建立风暴波功率与巨石运动内陆范围之间的预测关系，作为风暴破坏力的指标，作为长期沿海灾害评估的一部分，这对沿海社区、政策制定者和沿海工程师有价值。该项目是美国-爱尔兰研究与发展伙伴计划的一部分，由美国国家科学基金会国际科学与工程办公室共同资助。该项目的技术描述该项目有三个目标，将通过与爱尔兰研究人员的合作来实现。第一个目标是绘制爱尔兰阿兰群岛的地形和测深图，从水下传感器收集压力数据，实时监测波高，并继续监测沿海巨石的逐年移动。第二个是对沿海地区的波高增强进行数值模拟，以了解风暴波如何被放大到可以将大量物体向内陆的高处和远距离移动的程度。第三个目标是创建一个规模化的波浪池实验，结合现场测量和数值模型，为波浪冲击海岸线时发生的物理过程提供额外的约束。这种综合方法将为近岸高能过程提供准确的评估，可用于预测特定海况和沿海测深的波浪能的近岸传播。