Collaborative Research: Modeling wave breaking onset and dissipation in energy-conserving models for surface waves

波浪破碎是影响各种海洋和海岸科学和工程问题的关键过程，无论是近海还是近岸，都具有重要的社会意义。本研究将开发用于波浪破裂起始、破裂条件和波浪破裂引起的能量耗散的检测算法，用于相位分辨海浪传播模型。将针对最近的高保真数值模拟和实验室和现场数据进行广泛的验证和灵敏度分析。所开发的公式的鲁棒性也将与现有的断裂模型进行比较。除了开发参数化之外，本研究还将量化与操作相位分辨波模型中波浪破碎的各种参数化相关的不确定性。风暴条件下的模型-现场数据比较将通过更好地识别风暴和极端事件期间的模型技能和不确定性，使海岸工程界受益。这项工作将改进相位分解波浪模型对破碎波发生和严重程度的预测，从而：(i)更准确地表示波浪强迫（在洋流、沉积过程、海气相互作用等方面）在一系列水深范围内，包括内大陆架、冲浪区和河口；改进沿海和海洋结构及船舶设计的设计分析和安全。在高能/风暴事件期间更好地预测破碎过程和影响也将通过改进沿海恢复能力的策略使公众受益。华盛顿大学（UW）的一名初级科学家，首席PI，将受到更资深的联合PI的指导，这将帮助他过渡到一个永久的任命。该项目将支持特拉华大学（University of Delaware）的一名女研究生，她将由pi共同指导。外展活动将在华盛顿大学举行的年度“发现日”活动中进行。提出了一种新的、统一的、鲁棒的闭包模型，用于参数化相位解析、节能的表面波模型中波浪破碎的开始和进展，该模型适用于Boussinesq（通常用于浅水）和高阶谱（HOS）（通常用于深水）模型。提出的工作的动机和基础是最近使用高保真数值模拟获得的结果，这些结果表明，单个波峰的破裂开始和强度可以完全由波峰在任意深度接近破裂时的局部特性来确定。新的封闭模型将改进现有的方法，提供一种适合单个波峰的公式，而不是基于波列的一般特征进行校准。将根据最近的高保真数值模拟、可用的实验室实验以及最近和正在进行的风暴条件下的现场观测，对拟议的破裂闭合模型进行广泛的验证和敏感性分析。后一种数据及其在数值模拟中的应用都是相当新颖的，并且将建立一个独特的模型-场数据比较过程，因为它需要使用波场重建算法初始化相位解析模型。提出的断裂闭合模型的鲁棒性也将与现有的断裂模型进行比较。该奖项反映了美国国家科学基金会的法定使命，并通过使用基金会的知识价值和更广泛的影响审查标准进行评估，被认为值得支持。

Wave breaking is a crucial process affecting a variety of ocean and coastal science and engineering problems both offshore and in the nearshore of great societal importance. This study will develop algorithms for the detection of wave breaking initiation, breaking conditions, and energy dissipation due to wave breaking, for use in phase-resolving ocean wave propagations models. Extensive validation and sensitivity analysis will be performed against recent high-fidelity numerical simulations and laboratory and field data. The robustness of the developed formulations will also be compared with existing breaking models. In addition to developing the parametrizations, this study will quantify uncertainties associated with various parametrizations of wave breaking in operational phase-resolving wave models. The model-field data comparison during storm conditions will benefit the coastal engineering community by better identifying model skill and uncertainty during storms and extreme events. The work will improve predictions of the occurrence and severity of breaking waves in phase-resolving wave models leading to: (i) a more accurate representation of wave-forcing (on currents, sediment processes, air-sea interactions, etc.) over a range of water depths, including the inner shelf, the surf zone, and river mouths; (ii) improved design analyses and safety for coastal and ocean structures and ship design. A better prediction of breaking processes and impacts during energetic/storm events will also benefit the public through improved strategies for coastal resilience. A junior scientist at the University of Washington (UW), the lead PI, will be mentored by the more senior co-PIs, which will help him transition to a permanent appointment. The project will support a female graduate student at the University of Delaware, who will be co-advised by the PIs. Outreach will be conducted at the annual "Discovery Days" event at the University of Washington.A new, unified, and robust closure model for parameterization of the onset and progression of wave breaking in phase-resolving, energy-conserving surface wave models is proposed, applicable to Boussinesq (commonly used in shallow water) and High-Order Spectral (HOS, commonly used in deep water) models. The proposed work is motivated by and builds on recent results obtained using high-fidelity numerical simulations, which establish that the onset and strength of breaking of an individual wave crest can be determined solely from local properties of the evolving crest as it approaches breaking in arbitrary depth. The new closure model will improve on existing methods by providing a formulation that is adaptive to individual wave crests, as opposed to being calibrated based on the general features of the wave train. Extensive validation and sensitivity analysis of the proposed breaking closure model will be performed against recent high-fidelity numerical simulations, available laboratory experiments, and recent and ongoing field observations during storm conditions. Both the latter data and its use in numerical modeling are quite novel and will establish a unique model-field data comparison procedure as it requires initialization of the phase-resolving model using a wave field reconstruction algorithm. The robustness of the proposed breaking closure model will also be compared with existing breaking models.This award reflects NSF's statutory mission and has been deemed worthy of support through evaluation using the Foundation's intellectual merit and broader impacts review criteria.