Wind-Wave-Current Coupled Model for Coastal Current System in the Wave-Shoaling Region

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Objectives : This research project aims to make clear the processes of momentum exchange between atmosphere and ocean and to establish a numerical model for describing air-sea interaction in the coastal ocean. The momentum flux from an air turbulent flow to ocean through a wave in the wave shoaling region is modeled. Using observed knowledge, numerical model for describing an interaction system of air-wave-coastal current was constructed.Main Results : The result s obtained by this research are as follows.(1)Observational researches :The generating mechanism and structure of a coastal current system were clarified by a wave and current observation in the wave shoaling region at the Ogata Wave Observatory, Disaster Prevention Research Institute, Kyoto University.(2)Coastal Current System :The mathematical model of the coastal current system which consists of fields of wind, wave, turbulent flow, and mean coastal current was built. It clarified that a coastal current system was major external force of material transportation in winter Monsoon in the coasts along Japan Sea.(3)Air-Wave-Current Coupled Model:Wave breaking shear stress was proposed as a white-cap dissipation in which wave energy is changed into a flow. Thereby, the Air-Wave-Current Coupled Model was established and the simulation of storm surges and high waves was carried out. Huge wave simulation in Japan Sea was conducted by Air-Wave coupled model, surge-wave interaction in Yatsushiro Sea and the Bay of Bengal were also conducted by Air-Wave-Current Coupled Model.(4)Atmosphere-Land Surface-Ocean Coupled Model:Synthesizing the model in (3) and the models of rainfall, runoff, and land surface, the integrated model for simulation of water cycle and a material transportation was established. Observation data in Tanabe Bay was employed for verification of the model