Soft Beach Change Prediction in Japan Sea Coast

日本海岸的软滩变化预测

• 批准号: 10650504
• 负责人: YAMASHITA Takao
• 金额: $ 1.92万
• 依托单位: KYOTO UNIVERSITY
• 依托单位国家: 日本
• 项目类别: Grant-in-Aid for Scientific Research (C)
• 财政年份: 1998
• 资助国家: 日本
• 起止时间: 1998 至 1999
• 项目状态: 已结题
• 来源: https://kaken.nii.ac.jp/grant/KAKENHI-PROJECT-10650504/
• 关键词: Sea Currents; Headland Defense Works; Soft Beach; Offshore Sediment Transport; Japan Sea; Winter Monsoon; 広域漂流; 海浜流; 安定海浜; 漂砂

Japan's sandy beaches facing Japan Sea have serious erosion problems which were mainly caused by steep wind waves in winter monsoon. Off-shore-going currents, so-called 'undertow' was generated in the surf zone due to wave breaking resulting in sediment transport towards off-shore to form a long-shore bar near breaker line. Sediment going off-shore was trapped with a long-shore bar. This is a circulation cycle of cross-shore sediment in winter. When large-scale coastal constructions are built to stop longshore sediment transport, a circulation cycle of cross-shore sediment is destroyed. This is a mechanism of beach erosion of sandy coasts facing Japan SeaHead-land defense works have been developed by the head researcher's group to control beach erosion mentioned above. Beach change prediction method has also been developed and pointed out that the following themes should be investigated for establishing soft beach change prediction of Japan Sea coasts.(1) Depth of closure : coastal currents induced by monsoon wind,(2) Simulation of stable beach formation,(3) Beach nourishment methods : mutual evaluation of beach preservation methods in Japan, EU and USA.This research project elaborated on prediction of coastal currents induced by winter monsoon in Japan Sea and made clear the three-dimensional structure of coastal currents and offshore sediment transport. These results will be applied to a simulation of pocket beach formation in head-land defense works.

日本面对日本海的沙滩存在严重的侵蚀问题，这主要是由冬季季风中陡峭的风波引起的。由于波浪破裂，在冲浪带中产生了离岸电流，即所谓的“承诺”，导致沉积物向离岸运输，在断路器线附近形成一个长岸杆。沿岸的沉积物被一家长岸的酒吧困住了。这是冬季跨国沉积物的循环周期。当建造大规模的沿海建筑以阻止漫长的沉积物运输时，跨国沉积物的循环循环被破坏。这是首席研究员小组开发了一种面对日本海头防御工程的桑迪海岸的海滩侵蚀机制，以控制上述海滩侵蚀。 Beach change prediction method has also been developed and pointed out that the following themes should be investigated for establishing soft beach change prediction of Japan Sea coasts.(1) Depth of closure : coastal currents induced by monsoon wind,(2) Simulation of stable beach formation,(3) Beach nourishment methods : mutual evaluation of beach preservation methods in Japan, EU and USA.This research project elaborated on prediction of coastal currents induced by winter日本海的季风，清楚地清楚了沿海电流和近海沉积物运输的三维结构。这些结果将应用于对Head-Land Defense工程中Pocket Beach组的模拟。

项目成果

山下隆男・黒岩正光 野田英明: "現地観測データからみた海浜流場と海底地形の変動特性との関係" 海岸工学論文集. 45. 576-580 (1998)

Takao Yamashita，Masamitsu Kuroiwa，Hideaki Noda：“基于现场观测数据的海滩流场与海底地形变化特征的关系”海岸工程学报45。576-580（1998）。

加藤 茂・山下隆男 安田孝志・三島豊秋: "高次乱流モデルとローラー型砕波モデルを援用した海浜流の3次元数値解析" 海岸工学論文集. 45. 191-196 (1998)

Shigeru Kato、Takao Yamashita、Takashi Yasuda、Toyoaki Mishima：“使用高阶湍流模型和滚轮型波浪破碎模型对海滩流进行三维数值分析”《海岸工程学报》45。191-196（1998）。

Baba, Y., H. Imamoto, T. Yamashita and H. Yoshioka: "Decomposition of coastal currents into excitaion modes, Analysis of ADCP data at Hazaki Oceanographical Research Station, 1998"Proc. of Coastal Engineering, JSCI. 196-200 (1999)

Baba, Y., H. Imamoto, T. Yamashita 和 H. Yoshioka：“将沿岸流分解为激发模式，哈崎海洋研究站 ADCP 数据分析，1998 年”Proc。

Yamashita, T., H. Yoshioka, Lu Ming, S. Kato and C. Shimoda: "ADCP observation of nearshore current structure in the surf zone"Proc. of Int. Conf. On Coastal Engineering, ASCE. 787-800 (1998)

Yamashita, T., H. Yoshioka, Lu Ming, S. Kato 和 C. Shimoda: “ADCP 冲浪区近岸海流结构观测”Proc.

Kato, S., T. Yamashita and Lu Ming: "Verification of three-dimensional model for coastal current prediction"Proc. of Coastal Engineering, JSCE. 211-215 (1999)

Kato, S., T. Yamashita, Lu Ming: “沿岸流预测三维模型的验证”Proc.