The effect of the wave height separated by wave period range on beach profile change

在本研究中，利用在Hasaki海岸观测到的5年海滩剖面和近海波浪数据集，讨论了海岸线变化率与6种频率分段波浪能通量之间的相关性。此外，还讨论了前滩形状对岸线后退速度的影响。从结果来看，利用分频波能通量可以将岸线侵蚀事件与岸线推进事件和岸线静止事件分开。此外，岸线位置和前滩形状对岸线后退速度有影响。这表明，岸线变化率的估算不仅需要考虑波浪能，还需要考虑岸线位置和前滩形状。

In this research, correlations between shoreline change rates and six frequency-sectioned wave energy fluxes were discussed using a 5-year data set of beach profiles and offshore waves observed at the Hasaki coast. Also, an effect of foreshore beach shape on shoreline backward movement speed was discussed. From the results, it is possible to separate shoreline erosion events from shoreline advance events and shoreline stand still events by using frequency-sectioned wave energy fluxes. Furthermore, the results revealed that the shoreline position and foreshore shape affect shoreline backward movement speed. This indicates that for the estimation of the shoreline change rate, we need to consider not only wave energy but also shoreline position and foreshore shape.