The effect of the wave height separated by wave period range on beach profile change

在这项研究中，利用5年的滩涂剖面和滨海波浪观测资料，讨论了海岸线变化率与6个频率分段的波浪能量通量之间的关系。此外，还讨论了岸滩形状对岸线向后运动速度的影响。结果表明，利用频率分段的波浪能量通量可以将岸线侵蚀事件与岸线推进事件和岸线静止事件区分开来。此外，结果还表明，岸线位置和前滨形状会影响岸线向后移动的速度。这表明，在估算海岸线变化率时，不仅要考虑波浪能量，还要考虑岸线位置和前滨形态。

In this research, correlations between shoreline change rates and six frequency-sectioned wave energy fluxes were discussed using a 5-year data set of beach profiles and offshore waves observed at the Hasaki coast. Also, an effect of foreshore beach shape on shoreline backward movement speed was discussed. From the results, it is possible to separate shoreline erosion events from shoreline advance events and shoreline stand still events by using frequency-sectioned wave energy fluxes. Furthermore, the results revealed that the shoreline position and foreshore shape affect shoreline backward movement speed. This indicates that for the estimation of the shoreline change rate, we need to consider not only wave energy but also shoreline position and foreshore shape.