The effect of the wave height separated by wave period range on beach profile change

在这项研究中，海岸线的变化率和6个频率截面波能通量之间的相关性进行了讨论，使用5年的数据集的海滩配置文件和离岸波观测在Hasaki海岸。此外，还讨论了前滨海滩形状对岸线后退速度的影响。从结果中，它是可能的分离海岸线侵蚀事件从海岸线前进事件和海岸线静止事件，通过使用频率分段波能通量。此外，研究结果还表明，海岸线的位置和前滨形状影响海岸线的后退速度。这表明，在估计海岸线变化率时，我们不仅需要考虑波浪能量，还需要考虑海岸线位置和前滨形状。

In this research, correlations between shoreline change rates and six frequency-sectioned wave energy fluxes were discussed using a 5-year data set of beach profiles and offshore waves observed at the Hasaki coast. Also, an effect of foreshore beach shape on shoreline backward movement speed was discussed. From the results, it is possible to separate shoreline erosion events from shoreline advance events and shoreline stand still events by using frequency-sectioned wave energy fluxes. Furthermore, the results revealed that the shoreline position and foreshore shape affect shoreline backward movement speed. This indicates that for the estimation of the shoreline change rate, we need to consider not only wave energy but also shoreline position and foreshore shape.