Laser Enhanced Biotechnology for Textile Design: Three Dimensional, Colour and Surface Patterning

用于纺织品设计的激光增强生物技术：三维、颜色和表面图案

• 批准号: AH/J002666/1
• 负责人: Jinsong Shen
• 金额: $ 26.68万
• 依托单位: De Montfort University
• 依托单位国家: 英国
• 项目类别: Research Grant
• 财政年份: 2012
• 资助国家: 英国
• 起止时间: 2012 至 无数据
• 项目状态: 已结题
• 来源: https://gtr.ukri.org/projects?ref=AH%2FJ002666%2F1
• 关键词: Laser; Enhanced; Biotechnology; Textile; Design

The textiles and clothing sector represents the second biggest area of global economic activity in terms of intensity of trade and approximately 7% of world exports. The environmental and social impacts are therefore significant. Harmful chemicals which are routinely used in traditional dyeing, bleaching, printing and finishing processes to achieve colour and pattern, have been identified as one of the key challenges to sustainability within the industry. The chemicals used can damage workers health and the local environment through water and air pollution. In addition, large amounts of water and energy are used in many processes. Alongside legislation such as REACH (the new European Chemicals Regulations), an increased focus on efficiency has been recommended as a strategy for increasing environmental performance. Further to this, the role of the designer has been recognised as central to promoting the development of sustainable solutions within the sector. The proposed project contributes to the development of sustainable textile design processes by investigations into enzymatic and laser processing technologies and their combination to achieve 3D and colour surface patterning on textiles. Due to the process specificity afforded by both technologies, energy use, water use and effluent production will be minimised in comparison with traditional surface patterning techniques. Through combining these technologies, the work aims to enhance current techniques and to discover new creative opportunities for UK textile designers. Enzymes are biological catalysts. In other words they can be used to perform chemical transformations on organic compounds. They are obtaining an increasingly important role within textile wet processes including pre-treatments, bleaching and finishing due to their reliability, flexibility and environmental advantages. Due to their environmental advantages, in particular their replacement of harmful chemicals and the specificity of reaction they enable, the application of enzymes in textile processes has been developed rapidly. Their use as a creative design tool is, however, as yet unexplored. Initial trials carried out at DMU suggest that enzymes have great potential as creative textile design tools. Processing is, however, slow. In this project, enzyme technology will be developed for colour and 3D pattern design effects. The techniques used and effects achieved will be enhanced through using laser processing as a pre-treatment to enzyme treatments. The aim of this is to promote reactions and to broaden design opportunities. A specific focus will be the development of enzyme printing techniques. If successful, enzyme printing will be an innovative development. Lasers are used within industry to cut, mark and weld a range of materials. They provide a rapid prototyping tool as well as production line capabilities. Lasers provide an energy efficient means of achieving textile patterning without the use of excessive water or chemicals and therefore have environmental advantages in comparison with traditional textile processes. In regard to surface patterning they enable specificity and control afforded by digital generation of imagery. Due to increased access to laser technology, laser cutting, and to some extent marking, are increasingly used by designers working in high-end markets. As a marking tool, lasers are used to 'etch', a range of materials. This project aims to further develop laser marking as a creative design tool by targeting treatment at specific fibres to achieve new 3D and colour effects. The techniques used will be combined with enzyme processing via pre and post treatment, the aim being to create new design opportunities and to enhance the surface quality of natural fibre fabrics.

就贸易强度而言，纺织品和服装行业是全球经济活动的第二大领域，约占世界出口的7%。因此，环境和社会影响重大。在传统的染色、漂白、印刷和整理工艺中，为获得颜色和图案而经常使用的有害化学品已被确定为该行业可持续发展的主要挑战之一。所使用的化学品会通过水和空气污染损害工人的健康和当地环境。此外，在许多过程中使用大量的水和能源。除了REACH（新的欧洲化学品法规）等立法之外，还建议更加注重效率，作为提高环境绩效的战略。除此之外，设计师的作用被认为是促进行业内可持续解决方案发展的核心。拟议项目通过研究酶和激光加工技术及其组合，促进可持续纺织品设计工艺的发展，以实现纺织品上的3D和彩色表面图案。由于这两种技术所提供的工艺特性，与传统的表面图案化技术相比，能源使用、水使用和废水产生将最小化。通过结合这些技术，这项工作旨在提高现有的技术，并为英国纺织品设计师发现新的创造性机会。酶是生物催化剂。换句话说，它们可以用于对有机化合物进行化学转化。由于其可靠性、灵活性和环保优势，它们在纺织品湿法工艺（包括预处理、漂白和整理）中发挥着越来越重要的作用。由于其环境优势，特别是其替代有害化学品和它们所能实现的反应特异性，酶在纺织工艺中的应用得到了迅速发展。然而，它们作为一种创造性的设计工具的使用尚未被探索。在DMU进行的初步试验表明，酶作为创造性的纺织品设计工具具有巨大的潜力。然而，处理速度很慢。在这个项目中，酶技术将被开发用于颜色和3D图案设计效果。通过使用激光加工作为酶处理的预处理，将提高所使用的技术和所取得的效果。这样做的目的是促进反应和扩大设计的机会。一个具体的重点将是酶打印技术的发展。如果成功，酶打印将是一个创新的发展。激光在工业中用于切割、标记和焊接一系列材料。它们提供快速原型工具以及生产线功能。激光提供了一种实现纺织图案化的节能手段，而不使用过量的水或化学品，因此与传统的纺织工艺相比具有环境优势。关于表面图案化，它们使图像的数字生成所提供的特异性和控制成为可能。由于激光技术的普及，激光切割以及某种程度上的打标越来越多地被高端市场的设计师所使用。作为一种标记工具，激光可用于"蚀刻"一系列材料。该项目旨在进一步开发激光打标作为创意设计工具，通过针对特定纤维进行处理，以实现新的3D和颜色效果。所使用的技术将通过前处理和后处理与酶处理相结合，目的是创造新的设计机会，并提高天然纤维织物的表面质量。

项目成果

Sustainability in the textile and apparel industries

纺织和服装行业的可持续发展

• 发表时间: 2020
• 作者: Kane F

The Effect Of CO2 Laser Irradiation On Surface and Dyeing Properties of Wool for Textile Design

纺织品设计中CO2激光照射对羊毛表面和染色性能的影响

• 发表时间: 2014
• 作者: Morgan L

Textile Led Sustainable Innovation for Sportswear

纺织品引领运动服装的可持续创新

• 发表时间: 2016
• 作者: Kane, F

Laser-dyeing for sustainable textile design

用于可持续纺织品设计的激光染色

• 发表时间: 2015
• 作者: Morgan L

Laser Enhanced Surface Modification for Textile Design

用于纺织品设计的激光增强表面改性

• 发表时间: 2013
• 作者: Morgan L