Development of novel dermatologic applications of in vivo FTIR molecular spectroscopy

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Fourier transform infrared spectroscopy (FTIR) is a technique used to determine the structural composition of materials. Reflectance FTIR techniques in particular collect information about the surfaces of materials, making it ideal to study skin. Used ex vivo to analyse human tissue, FTIR has proved successful in the diagnosis of a range of diseases from atherosclerosis to neoplasms. Until now its application for in vivo skin research has been limited by issues of practicality and sensitivity. Agilent's hand-held 4300 FTIR spectrometer uniquely offers high-sensitivity and portability opening up new opportunities. We have already shown that FTIR can be used in vivo to quantify the skin barrier defect in patients with eczema, and that this measurement could help direct preventative therapies towards those most at risk. On the back of this we are currently undertaking a clinical study, The Skin Testing for Atopic eczema Risk (STAR) study, funded by the Leo Foundation to validate the potential use of FTIR as a risk biomarker for AD. This project will see the development of new sampling interfaces for the Agilent 4300 spectrometer optimized to analyse human skin in vivo. Working in partnership with L'Oreal and Agilent we will demonstrate new applications for this technique to aid the development of new personal skin care and topical pharmaceutical products with enhanced efficacy and safety.Years 1 and 2Identify the working parameters of the new sampling interface(s) and compare with existing interfaces. This will involve determining which interfaces are most appropriate for skin analysis and from what depth within the skin surface information is collected. Identify and verify spectral biomarkers of skin chemistry/physiology by conducting a series of small human cohort studies and in vitro experiments. For instance, by preparing mock skin/skin component samples to study pH-associated changes. Stratum corneum pH is now recognised as a key regulator of skin homeostasis and function, yet there is no way to currently measure the pH within the stratum corneum in vivo. Biomarkers relating to sebum levels, keratin structure, lipid structure and composition, Natural Moisturising Factor levels, skin hydration, melanin levels, and tissue inflammation/irritation are also of interest. Exaggerated washing tests will provide a useful model as many of these properties are adversely affected by aggressive cleansers. Complementary skin analysis techniques, including transepidermal water loss and capacitance measurements will be utilized to help validate FTIR-based metrics.Use knowledge gained to mine the STAR longitudinal birth cohort study FTIR data for new markers of skin health. Once complete in December 2019 the STAR database will contain FTIR measurements taken from 175 babies at birth, 1 month of age and 12 months of age, coupled with comprehensive information on skin health and skin care practices during this time.Years 2 and 3Design and undertake a fundamental human cohort study that demonstrates the potential of FTIR and its value to the cosmetics and pharmaceutical industries. This could involve assessing the changing structural composition of the skin with advancing age, and help identify the differing needs of skin care at different stages of the lifecycle. With access to our skin barrier laboratory the study can incorporate complementary techniques such as Optical Coherence Tomography, to understand how skin surface changes measured by FTIR correspond with deeper changes to the collagen matrix and vasculature for example.Years 3 and 4Undertake a series of impact activities based around the techniques developed. This will involve working closely with L'Oreal to support new product claims, and will focus on the theme of 'cleansing without compromise' amongst others.