Modelling sustainable fashion futures on Hair and Hairdressing Salons

在美发沙龙上塑造可持续时尚未来

• 批准号: 2520133
• 金额: --
• 依托单位: Nottingham Trent University
• 依托单位国家: 英国
• 项目类别: Studentship
• 财政年份: 2020
• 资助国家: 英国
• 起止时间: 2020 至 无数据
• 项目状态: 已结题
• 来源: https://gtr.ukri.org/projects?ref=studentship-2520133
• 关键词: Modelling; sustainable; fashion; futures; Hair

This project explores the culture of hair and hairdressing through ethnographic observation of clients andstylists in specific salons. A fashionable haircut is achieved via one-to-one negotiated experiences ofidentity construction within the community of the salon. Such client-craftsperson relationships, whilepresent in pre-industrial culture and high-end tailoring, are largely absent from clothing since the'democratisation' of fashion. Instead, 'fast-fashion' brands offer consumers abundant, cheap, low-qualityclothing, manufactured in distant countries, that reacts to ever-faster fashion trends (Zamani, Standin &Peters 2017). The widespread negative social and environmental impacts of this sector are welldocumented (Fletcher 2014).Scholars of fashion and sustainability are rethinking the field, challenging the dominance of currentindustry models while acknowledging the significance of fashion to identity construction and social life(Von Busch 2018, Payne 2019). My study benefits this wider endeavour by increasing understanding ofhow fashionable identities are managed, and investigating the potential for forms of sociality in salons tobecome catalysts for sustainable clothing behaviours.This study uses Spradley's (1980) 'descriptive observation' to record the salon environment while payingspecific attention to social interactions, followed by semi-structured interviews with hairdressers andclients. Initial pilot studies will comprise one working week in three Nottingham salons. I will select thesalon with the richest culture for a longitudinal study over the course of a year, with extended visitscoinciding with the 6-8-week timescale between haircuts.Four years of designing for a high street fashion supplier provided first-hand knowledge of the workingsof the fashion industry. I left to pursue an academic career, achieving a high distinction in my MA(supported by an NTU competitive scholarship), and presenting at 'Culture, Costume and Dress' 2019(Birmingham) and 'Fashion, Costume and Visual Culture' 2019 (Roubaix - with NTU Global Travel FundBursary). This proposal builds upon my master's research on the importance of style and surface toidentity, with specific focus on the visual and material properties of hair.Since the MA, I have gained a wealth of academic experience: hourly-paid lecturing at NTU, guidingfashion and textile students towards industry change; working as a Research Assistant for Raw Print'sZine Therapy project at NTU, providing literature reviews to underpin funding proposals; and volunteeringon NTU's Textile Tales project (funded by Heritage Lottery Fund), including training from the University ofLeicester's East Midlands Oral History Archive and experience in interviewing.

这个项目通过对特定沙龙的客户和发型师的人种学观察来探索头发和美发文化。时尚的理发是通过一对一的沙龙社区内身份建设的协商体验来实现的。这种客户-工匠关系，虽然存在于前工业文化和高端裁剪中，但自从时尚的“民主化”以来，在服装中基本上没有了。相反，“快速时尚”品牌为消费者提供了大量、廉价、低质量的服装，这些服装是在遥远的国家生产的，能够响应越来越快的时尚趋势(Zamani，Stanin&Peters 2017)。时尚和可持续发展的学者们正在重新思考这一领域，挑战当前行业模特的主导地位，同时承认时尚对身份构建和社会生活的重要性(Von Busch 2018，Payne 2019)。我的研究有益于这一更广泛的努力，因为我增加了对时尚身份如何管理的理解，并调查了沙龙中各种社交形式成为可持续服装行为的催化剂的可能性。这项研究使用斯普拉德利(1980)的“描述性观察”来记录沙龙环境，同时特别关注社交互动，随后对理发师和客户进行了半结构化访谈。最初的试点研究将包括在诺丁汉的三家沙龙工作一周。我将选择最具文化底蕴的品牌进行为期一年的纵向研究，延长访问的时间间隔为6-8周。我为一家商业街时尚供应商设计了四年，提供了对时尚业工作的第一手知识。我离开去追求学术生涯，在我的硕士学位上获得了很高的荣誉(由NTU竞争性奖学金支持)，并在2019年(伯明翰)和2019年(鲁拜克斯-与NTU全球旅行基金奖学金)的“文化、服装和服饰”(文化，服装和服装)和“时尚，服装和视觉文化”(鲁拜克斯-与南大全球旅行基金)上发表演讲。这项建议建立在我的硕士对风格和表面对身份认同的重要性的研究基础上，特别关注头发的视觉和物质属性。自获得硕士学位以来，我获得了丰富的学术经验：在NTU讲授时薪，指导时尚和纺织专业的学生走向行业变革；在NTU担任Raw Print的Zine治疗项目的研究助理，提供文献综述以支持资助建议；以及志愿参与NTU的纺织故事项目(由传统彩票基金资助)，包括来自莱斯特大学东米德兰兹口述历史档案馆的培训和采访经验。