Collaborative Research: Nearshore Canyon Experiment

主题：埃尔加/赫伯斯/古萨摘要基金用于开发、测试和改进在陡峭近岸地形存在的情况下由波浪传播和波浪破碎驱动的环流模式。这些测试将使用从加州一个有两个近海峡谷的现场收集的数据进行测试。具体目标包括：确定表面重力波如何通过复杂的内陆架地形传播，确定由水深引起的波场近岸变化如何影响浅滩、破裂和近岸环流，以及确定在存在陡峭地形时海浪带和内陆架之间的质量交换特征。外陆架和中陆架上的四个波浪浮标将为模型提供离岸波浪边界条件，并表征外陆架上的折射。位于陆架中部的压力室将识别来自斯克里普斯峡谷的反射波。内陆架上方的PUV(压力和速度传感器)和声学多普勒海流剖面仪(ADCP)将表征内陆架和海浪带的环流和波浪场。漂流者将被部署和跟踪。将比较中浪和低浪情况，试图在没有波浪强迫的情况下隔离由峡谷引起的流动。浮标、压力室和PUV将提供方向波谱演变的估计，以便与模型输出进行比较。各种内陆架模型，包括NOPP群落模型，将与现场数据进行比较。

Subject: Elgar/Herbers/Guza abstractFunds are provided for development, testing, and improvement of circulation models driven by wave propagation and wave-breaking in the presence of abrupt nearshore topography. These will be tested using data collected from a California field site with two offshore canyons. Specific objectives include: determining how surface gravity waves propagate across a complex inner shelf topography, determining how bathymetrically-induced alongshore variations of the wave field affect shoaling, breaking, and nearshore circulation, and determining the characteristics of mass exchange between the surf zone and the inner shelf in the presence of abrupt topography. Four waverider buoys over the outer and mid shelf will provide offshore wave boundary conditions for the models and characterize the refraction over the outer shelf. Pressure cells at mid shelf will identify reflected waves from Scripps Canyon. PUVs (pressure and velocity sensors) and acoustic doppler current profilers (ADCPs) over the inner shelf will characterize inner shelf and surf zone circulation and wave fields. Drifters will be deployed and tracked. Moderate wave and low wave situations will be compared in an attempt to isolate flows induced by the canyon in the absence of wave forcing. The buoys, pressure cells, and PUVs will provide estimates of the evolution of the directional wave spectrum for comparison with model output. Various inner shelf models, including the NOPP community model, will be compared to the field data.