Collaborative Research: The Veiling-Fashion Industry: Transnational Geographies of Islamism, Capitalism, and Identity

许多致力于社会和政治生活伊斯兰化的伊斯兰主义者以既符合他们的伊斯兰原则又与消费资本主义的必要性相容的方式参与全球经济。这个合作研究项目将通过对新土耳其面纱时尚产业及其与柏林、巴黎和阿姆斯特丹的跨国联系的多地点案例研究，调查伊斯兰主义与资本主义的交集及其地缘政治和文化影响。土耳其的面纱时装（一种时髦的伊斯兰女性服装）生产商已经开始向中东、欧洲和北美的零售店出口产品。调查人员将通过追踪该行业的生产、设计、销售和财务特征，分析总部位于土耳其的面纱时尚产业的范围、历史和地理。他们还将探讨生产、销售和消费的面纱时尚的地缘政治、地缘经济和身份形成在跨国背景下的影响。调查人员将采用多方法研究设计，包括四个组成部分：(1)对土耳其面纱时尚行业的调查；(2)基于访谈的三家跨国面纱时装公司（Tekbir、Aydan和Dicle）的案例研究；(3)伊斯坦布尔、巴黎、柏林和阿姆斯特丹的土耳其面纱时尚消费者焦点小组；(4)制作和分析服装目录、宣传册、广告、公司报告和时装秀的服装档案。本研究项目将对跨国伊斯兰商业的影响以及当代欧洲和土耳其穆斯林妇女中面纱时尚的兴起进行实证评估。更广泛地说，项目结果将阐明伊斯兰实践和身份跨国化的地缘政治和地缘经济影响。该项目将侧重于面纱时尚产业的结构和动态，以及伊斯兰商业实践、经济治理和工作场所法规在全球商品链各个阶段的作用。通过对面纱时尚的生产和消费如何与土耳其和欧洲的政治和文化身份交织在一起的分析，本研究将提供对关键问题的新理解，包括移民问题、公共面纱的监管以及穆斯林身份的跨国化，这些问题现在在土耳其、欧洲和世界其他地区都处于危险之中。

Many Islamists who are working for the Islamicization of social and political life participate in the global economy in ways that are both reconciled to their Islamic principles and compatible with the imperatives of consumer capitalism. This collaborative research project will investigate the intersection of Islamism and capitalism and its geopolitical and cultural implications through a multi-sited case study of the new Turkish veiling-fashion industry and its transnational connections to Berlin, Paris and Amsterdam. Turkish producers of veiling-fashion, which is fashionable Islamic dress for women, have begun to export their products to retail outlets in the Middle East, Europe, and North America. The investigators will analyze the scope, history, and geography of the veiling-fashion industry headquartered in Turkey by tracing out the circuits of production, design, sales, and finance that characterize the industry. They also will explore the implications of the production, sale, and consumption of veiling-fashion for geopolitics, geoeconomics, and identity formation in a transnational context. The investigators will employ a multi-method research design with four components: (1) a survey of the veiling-fashion industry in Turkey; (2) interview-based case studies of three transnational veiling-fashion companies (Tekbir, Aydan, and Dicle); (3) focus groups with consumers of Turkish veiling-fashion in Istanbul, Paris, Berlin, and Amsterdam; and (4) the production and analysis of a veiling-fashion archive of catalogues, brochures, advertisements, company reports, and fashion shows.This research project will provide an empirically grounded assessment of the effects of transnational Islamic businesses and the rise of veiling-fashion amongst Muslim women in contemporary Europe and Turkey. More broadly, project results will illuminate the geopolitical and geoeconomic implications of the transnationalization of Islamic practices and identities. The project will focus on the structure and dynamics of the veiling-fashion industry and the role of Islamic business practices, economic governance, and workplace regulations at each stage in the global commodity chain. Through the analysis of how the production and consumption of veiling-fashion has become entwined with political and cultural identities in Turkey and in Europe, this research will provide new understanding of critical issues, including questions of migration, the regulation of public veiling, and the transnationalization of Muslim identities, that now are at stake in Turkey, Europe, and other parts of the world.