ON THE DEVELOPMENT OF NUMERICAL ANALYSIS METHOD OF WAVE DEFORMATION AND BREAKING WAVE ON BEACH

本研究将破碎波的变形过程与边坡的内部机理联系起来，是建立从变形到破碎波形成现象的一部分的数值方法的目的。理论研究(1)。提出了与坡面破碎波研究相关的数值分析模型，明确了用有限元法进行分析的方法。我们用普朗特型雷诺应力来估计破碎波的能量色散，并在连续方程中采用了包含空气压力的方法，认为破碎波带有连续的气泡。与实验结果比较，波浪高度与坡度和陡度对应的计算结果吻合较好。(2)由于存在一种非线性且不可理解的波，我们采用smac方法通过破波现象进行更精确的计算。对SMAC方法进行了改进，使该方法能够计算出破碎波后的扰动机制。本计算系统采用作者自行开发的有限元计算结果。计算结果与实验结果吻合较好，并对破碎波和涡流进行了定量计算。（3). 针对波浪边界层问题，提出了基于混合长度理论的湍流控制方程直接有限元分析方法，定量评价了波浪有限振幅和惯性传递项的影响。在此基础上，提出了将能量色散作为涡旋方程对象的有限元方法。该方法通过对波纹砂床湍流边界层的计算，计算了扰动机理的性质，数值计算结果与实验结果吻合较好。实验研究对坡面破碎波变形过程进行了实验研究。我们拍摄了一段视频，搭建了一个人像分析系统，分析了一个内部量，得到了与数值分析相比较的数据。我们研究了破碎波变形与所有量的过渡的关系。少

THIS RESEARCH HAS TAKEN THE DEFORMATION PROCESS OF BREAKING WAVE IN RELATION TO INNER MECHANISM ON THE SLOPE AND IS THE PURPOSE OF ESTABLISHMENT OF NUMERICAL METHOD FORMED A PART OF PHENOMENON FROM DEFORMATION TO BREAKING WAVE.1. THEORETICAL RESEARCH (1). IT IS PRESENTED THE NUMERICAL ANALYSIS MODEL IN CONNECTION WITH STUDY THE BREAKING WAVE ON THE SLOPE AND MAKES A CLEAR THE ANALYSIS METHOD BY FINITE ELEMENT.WE ESTIMATE THE ENERGY DISPERSION OF BREAKING WAVE WITH REYNOLDS STRESS OF PRANDTL TYPE,IN ADDITION WEWE TAKE A METHOD IN CONTINUTY EQUATION INCLUDED AN AIT PRESSURE THAT THE BREAKING WAVE COMES WITH AN CONTINUOUS AIR BUBBLE.IN COM-PARISON WITH EXPERIMENT,WE KNOWN A GOOD CALCULATIVE AGREEMENT THAT THE WAVE HEIGHT CORRESPONDS TO SLOPE GRADIENT AND STEEPNESS. (2) WE APPLIED A SMAC METHOD FOR MORE EXACT CALCULATION THROUGH BREAKING WAVE PHENOMENON,BECAUSE THERE IS A NONLINEAR AND UNSTANDING WAVE.WE MODIFIED SMAC METHOD,SO THE PRESENT SMAC METHOD CAN CAL-CULATE A DISTURB MECHANISM AFT … More ER BREAKING WAVE.THIS CALCULATION SYSTEM USE A F.E.M RESULT DEVELOPED BY AUTHOR.THE CALCULATED RESULT GOOD AGREE WITH AN EXPERIMENTAL RESULT,WE DID A QUANTITATIVE CALCUL-ATION ABOUT BREAKING WAVE AND VOTEX. (3). WE DEVELOPED THE METHOD TO ANALYZE DIRECT F.E.M FOR CONTROL EQUATION OF TURBULENT FLOW ON BASE OF MIXTURE LENGTH THEORY TO PROBLEM OF THE WAVE BOUNDARY LAYER,WHICH EVALUATED QUANTITATIVELY THE EFFECT OF WAVE FINITE AMPLITUDE AND INERTIA TRANSFER TERM.NEXT,WE DEVELOPED F.E.M METHOD TO INTRODU-CE ENERGY DISPERSION AN OBJECT OF VOTEX EQUATION.THIS METHOD USED A CALCULATION THE TURBULENT BOUND-ARY LAYER ON THE RIPPLED SAND BEDS,WHICH CALCULATED THE PROPERTY OF DISTURB MECHANISM,THERE IS A GOOD AGREE BETWEEN NUMERICAL METHOD RESULT AND EXPERIMENTAL RESULT.2. EXPERIMENTAL RESEARCH WE DID EXPERIMENT AN OBJECT OF BREAKING WAVE DEFORMATION PROCESS ON THE SLOPE. WE TAKE A VIDEO,EST-ALISH A PORTRAIT ANALYSIS SYSTEM,ANALYZE A INNER QUANTITY AND GET A COMPARATIVE DATA IN COMPARISON TO NUMERICAL ANALYSIS.WE INVESIGATE BREAKING WAVE DEFORMATION IN RELATION TO TRANSITION OF ALL QUAN-TITY. Less