Designing a Sensibility for Sustainable Clothing (S4S)
Designing a Sensibility for Sustainable Clothing (S4S)
批准号:
AH/R000123/1
负责人:
Clare Saunders
金额:
$46.09万
依托单位:
依托单位国家:
英国
项目类别:
Research Grant
财政年份:
2017
资助国家:
英国
项目状态:
已结题
起止时间:
2017 至 --
中文摘要
设计可持续服装的情感项目是一次重要的尝试,旨在了解创造性活动如何塑造个人对可持续发展的敏感性(即他们思考、想象和实践可持续发展的方式)与服装的关系。我们的跨学科方法提供了一种新的方法,有望推动有利于环境的行为改变的工作范围。它还对可持续时尚的新兴领域以及工艺过程、创意制作和材料效果之间的关系的研究做出了重大贡献。该项目以“社会设计”和联合生产方法为基础,这意味着我们不仅对生产知识感兴趣,还对在生产知识的过程中与他人合作感兴趣。这种方法很重要,因为时尚业、文化和想象力是多方面的复杂问题,具有重大的个人(即情感)、社会和环境影响。我们认为,参与性艺术和手工艺实践可能是产生可持续发展意识的重要工具,因此也是为行为变化提供政策信息的重要工具。因此,艺术和手工艺需要一个严肃的试验台作为行为干预,尤其是因为政治学家几十年来一直建议将多种知识结合在一起来解决政策问题。该项目由五个相互关联的工作链组成:工作链1。个别研究参与者和专家(包括我们当地社区的纺织品/时尚合作伙伴以及国家和国际政策制定和塑造者)聚集在一起,讨论与服装相关的社会和环境问题,2.通过一系列研讨会(8个系列的5个半天研讨会),6-10名参与者以参与式方式探讨服装生命周期的不同要素。他们被鼓励分享知识,并通过将创意成果(参见案例支持这些细节)以及编写和自我评估的电影传递给国家不同地区的一群类似的同行,从而鼓励他们进行反思和互动。工作线3.在研讨会系列之前和之后对服装实践进行评估,以通过调查、访谈和衣柜审计来确定服装敏感性和选择的任何变化。一小部分关键志愿者将在整个项目期间保持一本反思的衣物购买日记,记录衣物购买情况,并反映他们的感受、态度和行为的任何变化。他们将记录他们对物质过程的参与在塑造任何变化中所起的作用的看法。工作线索4。我们通过深入探索人们对衣服的感受以及在研讨会中探索的制作面料和衣服的材料过程,采用了一种“情感政治”。我们通过对研讨会、访谈、参与者的博客和反思电影中的谈话进行归纳分析来做到这一点。工作要点5.我们与项目伙伴、顾问和参与者组成的广泛网络进行联络后,将我们的调查结果仔细收集起来,形成一份政策简报,帮助政策制定者努力推动有利于环境的行为改变。在与我们的项目合作伙伴时尚革命的联系下,我们将安排与DEFRA和所有党派议会设计和创新小组的会议,在会上我们将分享政策简介和项目的一些创造性成果(例如反光视频和文物)。从每个地点挑选2-3名参与者、一些关键合作伙伴、调查人员和项目研究人员将参加会议。
英文摘要
The Designing a Sensibility for Sustainable Clothing project represents a significant attempt to seek to understand how creative activities might shape individuals' sensibility for sustainability (that is the way in which they think through, imagine and practice sustainability) in relation to clothing. Our interdisciplinary approach provides a novel methodology that promises to push forward the boundaries of work on pro-environmental behaviour change. It also makes a significant contribution to the emergent field of sustainable fashion and to research on the relationship between craft processes, creative making and material affect. The project is grounded in 'social design' and co-production methodologies, which means that we are not interested in just producing knowledge, but also in working with others in the process of generating knowledge. This approach is important because fashion industries, cultures and imaginaries are multi-faceted and complex issues with significant personal (i.e. emotional) social and environmental implications. We argue that participatory arts and craft practices are potentially an important tool for generating a sensibility of sustainability and therefore for informing policy on behaviour change. Arts and crafts therefore require a serious test bed as a behavioural intervention, not least because political scientists have, now for a number of decades, recommended that multiple knowledges be drawn together to solve policy problems.The project consists of five interrelated work strands:Work strand 1. Individual research participants and experts (including our local community textiles / fashion partners and national and international policy -making and -shaping actors) come together to discuss the social and environmental problems associated clothing, and to inform and shape the workshops that follow through exposing the challenges of making fashion sustainable and engaging in asset mapping to address these challenges.Work strand 2. Throughout a series of workshops (8 series of 5 half day workshop), groups of 6-10 participants explore different elements of the clothing life-cycle in a participatory manner. They are encouraged to share knowledge and be reflexive and interactive by passing creative outputs (see Case for Support for details of these) artefacts and written and self-evaluative films on to a group of similar peers in a different part of the country.Work strand 3. Clothing practices are assessed before and after the workshop series to identify any changes in clothing sensibilities and choices using a survey, interviews and a wardrobe audit. A smaller group of key volunteers will keep a reflective clothes-purchasing diary throughout the life of the project, recording clothing purchases as well as reflecting on any changes in their feelings, attitudes and behaviours. They will record their perceptions about the role of engagement with material processes in shaping any changes.Work strand 4. We adopt a 'politics of affect' by exploring in-depth the way people feel about clothing and the material processes involved in making fabric and clothes explored in the workshops. We do this through inductively analysing talk during the workshops, interviews and participants' blogs and the reflective films. Work strand 5. Our findings are assembled carefully after liaison with our extensive network of project partners, consultants and participants into a policy brief that will help policy-makers work towards promoting pro-environmental behaviour change. In liaison with our project partner Fashion Revolution, we will arrange meetings with DEFRA and the All Party Parliamentary Design and Innovation Group at which we will share the policy brief and some creative output from the project (e.g. reflective videos and artefacts). A small select group of 2-3 participants from each location, some key partners, the investigators and project researchers will attend.
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DOI:
10.1016/j.jclepro.2021.126387
发表时间:
2021-03
期刊:
Journal of Cleaner Production
影响因子:
11.1
作者:
[J. West;C. Saunders;J. Willet]
通讯作者:
J. West;C. Saunders;J. Willet
Enacting a Sensibility for Sustainable Clothing: the quiet activism of making face masks
培养对可持续服装的敏感性:制作口罩的安静行动
DOI:
--
发表时间:
2021
期刊:
影响因子:
--
作者:
[Hackney, F.]
通讯作者:
Hackney, F.
We are Commoners, Creative Acts of Commoning
我们是平民,共同的创造性行为
DOI:
--
发表时间:
2022
期刊:
影响因子:
--
作者:
[F Hackney]
通讯作者:
F Hackney
Design Research for Change
变革设计研究
DOI:
--
发表时间:
2018
期刊:
影响因子:
--
作者:
[Loudon G]
通讯作者:
Loudon G
Jack's Jumper: Designing a Sensibility for Sustainable Clothing
Jacks Jumper:设计可持续服装的感性
DOI:
--
发表时间:
2019
期刊:
影响因子:
--
作者:
[Hackney, F.]
通讯作者:
Hackney, F.
共 8 条
ECRP08 Collaboration led by the University of Antwerp: Caught in the Act of Protest: Contextualising Contestation (CCC)
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批准号:ES/G011621/2
-
项目类别:Research Grant
-
资助金额:$1.86万
-
财政年份:2013
-
负责人:Clare Saunders
-
依托单位:
URGENT INVITE "Doing TB differently: Generating a workable TB policy during an acute episode within a chronic countryside conflict"
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批准号:ES/L008106/1
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项目类别:Research Grant
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资助金额:$20.61万
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财政年份:2013
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负责人:Clare Saunders
-
依托单位:
ECRP08 Collaboration led by the University of Antwerp: Caught in the Act of Protest: Contextualising Contestation (CCC)
-
批准号:ES/G011621/1
-
项目类别:Research Grant
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资助金额:$28.75万
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财政年份:2009
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负责人:Clare Saunders
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依托单位:
海外基金