CAREER: Capturing the translation of wave climate to coastal change on rocky shorelines across scales

岩石海岸占世界海岸线的一半以上。 每一天，这些海岸线都受到成千上万的巨浪的冲击，导致海岸线后退，有时是灾难性的。 随着气候变化和海浪变得更加极端，海岸后退的潜在加速对自然栖息地，文化遗产，沿海社区和关键基础设施构成重大威胁。然而，极端波浪对岩石海岸侵蚀的影响并不为人所知，限制了对不断演变的海岸灾害的预测。该项目将综合环境，地形和地质数据集，使用创新的地震监测技术，并开发新的模型来了解岩石海岸侵蚀和海岸灾害对极端波浪的敏感性。该项目将把研究活动纳入面向公众的外联和大学教育，包括新开发的教育模块和在线互动工具，两者都利用可公开访问的实时数据集。该项目旨在了解可变波浪作用如何转化为岩石海岸线上的海岸侵蚀和海崖后退。这项工作是围绕三个组成部分：（1）量化构造和近岸形态如何控制波浪能量输送到岩石海岸，（2）测量近岸波浪转换和海崖响应在一系列设置，（3）试点海岸侵蚀模型，占波浪气候，波浪过滤效果，和悬崖侵蚀阈值。该项目的主要贡献包括波浪能输送的概率描述、波浪气候转化为海岸地貌工作的直接现场测量以及量化海岸对变化的环境极端的敏感性的新颖侵蚀模型。该奖项反映了NSF的法定使命，并通过使用基金会的智力价值和更广泛的影响审查标准进行评估，被认为值得支持。

Rocky coasts make up over half of the world’s coastlines. Each day, these coastlines are hammered by the force of thousands of crashing waves, causing the coastline to retreat, sometimes catastrophically. As climate changes and ocean waves become more extreme, potential acceleration of coastal retreat poses significant threats to natural habitats, cultural heritage, coastal communities, and critical infrastructure. However, the influence of extreme waves on rocky coast erosion is not well-known, limiting the prediction of evolving coastal hazards. This project will synthesize environmental, topographic, and geologic datasets, use innovative seismic monitoring techniques, and develop new models to understand the sensitivity of rocky coast erosion and coastal hazards to extreme waves. The project will integrate research activities into public-facing outreach and university education, including newly developed educational modules and online interactive tools, both leveraging publicly accessible, live-streamed datasets. This project aims to understand how variable wave action translates to coastal erosion and sea cliff retreat on rocky coastlines. The work is structured around three components: (1) quantifying how tectonics and near-shore morphology control wave energy delivery to rocky shores, (2) measuring near-shore wave transformation and sea cliff response across a range of settings, and (3) piloting a coastal erosion model that accounts for wave climate, wave filtering effects, and cliff erosion thresholds. The project's main contributions include a probabilistic description of wave energy delivery, direct field measurement of wave climate translation to coastal geomorphic work, and a novel erosion model quantifying coastal sensitivity to shifting environmental extremes.This award reflects NSF's statutory mission and has been deemed worthy of support through evaluation using the Foundation's intellectual merit and broader impacts review criteria.