Relation between Anisotropic Mechanical and Thermal Properties of Single Fibers and Performance of Clothing Materials

对影响服装面料性能的单纤维各向异性力学性能，即沿纤维轴向的力学性能、横向纤维轴向的力学性能和剪切性能进行了研究。用涤纶、尼龙、丙烯腈、羊毛、棉、亚麻等纤维材料测定了服装纤维的各向异性弹性模量，并以高性能纤维为参照物进行了测试。得到了服装纤维的各向异性弹性模量球以及各向异性弹性模量值与分子取向的关系。为了考察这些纤维的实际应用，阐明了这些纤维的破坏各向异性以及水对各向异性力学性能的影响。考察了羊毛纤维在精纺、纺纱、织造和后整理过程中各向异性弹性模数的变化。结果表明，…具有显著的优势剪切模量值的下降幅度较大，横向模量值的下降率也发生了变化，表现为疲劳现象。然后，研究了单纤维的各向异性力学性能对纤维材料纤维-纤维摩擦性能的影响。具体而言，单纤维的各向异性力学性能受改变经纬交角的剪切扭矩特性和纱线横向压缩性能的影响，尤其是纱线力学性能的滞后性能。具有较高取向度和较低横向模数的纤维组成的纤维材料，纤维与纤维之间的摩擦力增大。纱线的主要力学性能由纱线结构和单纤维的各向异性力学性能在理论上决定，并利用先导理论计算了这些纱线性能对织物基本力学性能的影响，即织物的剪切、拉伸、弯曲和压缩性能，结果表明纤维的横向和剪切性能对服装材料的性能是最重要的。以上结果表明，从单一纤维性能出发进行高性能服装面料的总体设计是可能的。对单根纤维导热系数各向异性的测量并不准确，目前还没有得到任何可靠的结果。较少

Anisotropic mechanical properties of single fibers, that is, the mechanical property along the fiber axis, the property transverse to the fiber axis and shear property, which fundamentally influence the performance of clothing material, are surveyed and the results obtained are as follows. Polyester, nylon, acrylic, wool, cotton and linen were used for measurements of anisotropic elastic moduli of apparel fiber and high performance fibers were measured for reference samples. As a results of that, a sphere of anisotropic elastic moduli of clothing fibers and the relation between anisotropic elastic moduli and molecular orientation were obtained. For the survey of the practical use of the above fibers, failure anisotropy of these fibers and the effect of water on the anisotropic mechanical properties were clarified. Then the changes of the anisotropic elastic moduli during worsted, spinning, weaving and finishing processes of wool fibers were surveyed. The results showed that a remarkabl … More e decrease of the shear modulus occurred and that the transverse modulus' rate of decrease changed, so these performances seemed to be a phenomena of fatigue. Then, the effect of anisotropic mechanical properties of single fibers on the fiber-fiber friction of fibrous materials was studied. Specifically, anisotropic mechanical properties of single fibers affected by the shear torque property for changing the intersecting angle between warp and weft yarns and transverse compression property of yarn, particularly, that affected by hysteresis performance of yarn mechanical property. Then fibrous materials consisted of the fibers which have higher oriented molecular and lower transverse modulus showed increasing of fiber-fiber friction. Primary mechanical properties of yarn were led theoretically by yarn construction and anisotropic mechanical properties of single fibers, and the effect of these yarn properties on basic mechanical properties of fabric, that is shear, tensile, bending and compressional properties of fabric, were calculated using leaded previously developed theory, as a results, the transverse and shear property of fiber are most important to the performance of clothing materials. Above results showed the possibility of total designing of high performance clothing material from single fiber properties. Measurements of anisotropy of thermal conductivity of single fibers were not precise and any reliable results were not obtained for the present. Less