Relation between Anisotropic Mechanical and Thermal Properties of Single Fibers and Performance of Clothing Materials

对影响服装材料性能的单纤维的各向异性力学性能，即沿纤维轴向的力学性能、横向于纤维轴向的力学性能和剪切性能进行了研究。采用涤纶、尼龙、腈纶、羊毛、棉和亚麻纤维作为服装纤维的各向异性弹性模量的测试材料，并以高性能纤维作为参考样品。结果表明，纤维的各向异性弹性模量呈球形分布，纤维的各向异性弹性模量与纤维分子取向之间存在一定的关系。为了考察上述纤维的实际应用，阐明了这些纤维的破坏各向异性以及水对各向异性力学性能的影响。并对羊毛纤维在精纺、纺纱、织造和后整理过程中各向异性弹性模量的变化进行了研究。结果表明， 关于我们 剪切模量的降低和横向模量的降低率的变化，这些性能似乎是一种疲劳现象。然后，研究了单根纤维的各向异性力学性能对纤维材料纤维间摩擦的影响。单纤维的各向异性力学性能受改变经纬纱交叉角的剪切扭矩性能和纱线的横向压缩性能的影响，特别是受纱线力学性能滞后性能的影响。当纤维分子取向度较高，横向模量较低时，纤维间摩擦力增大。从纱线结构和单纤维的各向异性力学性能出发，从理论上导出纱线的主要力学性能，并利用导出的理论计算了纱线性能对织物的基本力学性能，即织物的剪切、拉伸、弯曲和压缩性能的影响，结果表明，纱线的主要力学性能与织物的剪切、拉伸、弯曲和压缩性能有关。纤维的横向和剪切性能对服装面料的性能至关重要。以上结果表明，从单纤维性能出发进行高性能服装面料总体设计的可能性。单纤维导热系数各向异性的测量不精确，目前还没有得到任何可靠的结果。少

Anisotropic mechanical properties of single fibers, that is, the mechanical property along the fiber axis, the property transverse to the fiber axis and shear property, which fundamentally influence the performance of clothing material, are surveyed and the results obtained are as follows. Polyester, nylon, acrylic, wool, cotton and linen were used for measurements of anisotropic elastic moduli of apparel fiber and high performance fibers were measured for reference samples. As a results of that, a sphere of anisotropic elastic moduli of clothing fibers and the relation between anisotropic elastic moduli and molecular orientation were obtained. For the survey of the practical use of the above fibers, failure anisotropy of these fibers and the effect of water on the anisotropic mechanical properties were clarified. Then the changes of the anisotropic elastic moduli during worsted, spinning, weaving and finishing processes of wool fibers were surveyed. The results showed that a remarkabl … More e decrease of the shear modulus occurred and that the transverse modulus' rate of decrease changed, so these performances seemed to be a phenomena of fatigue. Then, the effect of anisotropic mechanical properties of single fibers on the fiber-fiber friction of fibrous materials was studied. Specifically, anisotropic mechanical properties of single fibers affected by the shear torque property for changing the intersecting angle between warp and weft yarns and transverse compression property of yarn, particularly, that affected by hysteresis performance of yarn mechanical property. Then fibrous materials consisted of the fibers which have higher oriented molecular and lower transverse modulus showed increasing of fiber-fiber friction. Primary mechanical properties of yarn were led theoretically by yarn construction and anisotropic mechanical properties of single fibers, and the effect of these yarn properties on basic mechanical properties of fabric, that is shear, tensile, bending and compressional properties of fabric, were calculated using leaded previously developed theory, as a results, the transverse and shear property of fiber are most important to the performance of clothing materials. Above results showed the possibility of total designing of high performance clothing material from single fiber properties. Measurements of anisotropy of thermal conductivity of single fibers were not precise and any reliable results were not obtained for the present. Less