Fundamental Study on Clothing Materials for the Systematic Clothing Design

服装的设计必须基于对服装的热舒适性、健康卫生性、触觉、穿着过程中的功能运动等多个因素的评价。外形和外观、形状保持性和耐用性。运用服装材料学的基本原理，对这些因素进行了系统化的研究，得出了对服装设计有益的方面。主要成果如下：1.分析了热、水/蒸汽和空气在织物中的传输特性对服装热舒适性的影响。在模拟实际穿着条件下进行了实验，得到了对服装设计有用的指导。阐明了辐射传递对几种纤维材料总传热的贡献。本文研究了丝、棉服装穿搭时的热湿传递现象与穿着风格的关系 关于我们 第2条。通过对织物表面和力学性能的分析，找出影响织物舒适性和基本运动的因素。在此基础上得出了一种客观的评价方法，可用于评价裤袜和运动服的服用性能.结合织物的物理性能，运用计算机花型技术设计服装。探讨了织物力学性能与服装外观的关系。得到了适合于服装裁剪性和悬垂性评价的预测方法。提取了影响空重引起的织物伸长率的因素，并找到了实用的预测方法.研究了织物的物理性能对缝纫收缩率的影响，为缝纫工艺控制提供依据。考察了粘合后的冷却条件对剥离强度的影响，找出了最佳冷却条件。提出了基于织物力学性能预测服装保形性的方法.探讨了高性能高强纤维在服装上的应用，提出了纤维-纱线-织物-服装的一致性理论。少

Design of garments has to be based on the evaluation of clothing in terms of several factors, such as thermal comfort, health and hygiene property, tactile sense, functional movement during wear. silhouette and appearance, shape retention and durability. We focused on the systematization of these factors by using the fundamental principle for clothing materials, and obtained the useful aspects for the clothing design. Main achievement is listed as follows.1. Effects of the transport property of heat, water/vapor and air through a fabric, on the thermal comfort of a garment was analyzed. Experiments were carried out in the simulation of actual wearing condition and the useful indication to the clothing design was obtained. The contribution of radiative transfer to the total heat transfer of several fibrous materials was clarified. The relation between the heat and moisture transfer phenomenon and the wearing style was studied when the silk and cotton garments was wearied one over anothe … More r.2. Fabric surface and mechanical properties were analyzed to find out the factors which influence on the comfortable tactile sense and the fundamental movement. Objective evaluation method on the basis of these results was obtained which can be used to evaluate the wearability of panty hose and sports wear.3. Skirts were designed by using the computer pattern making technique taking account of the fabric physical property. Relationship between the fabric mechanical property and the appearance of garments was examined. The suitable prediction method was obtained to evaluate the tailorability and drapability of garments. Factors which affects the fabric elongation caused by the empty weight was extracted and the useful prediction method was also found out.4. Fabric physical property of the shrinkage of seam packaling was studied to develop the tailoring process control. Influence of cooling condition after adhere the interlining on the peel off strength was investigated and the optimum cooling condition was found out.5. Method to predict the shape retention of garments was proposed on the basis of the fabric mechanical properties.6. Application of high performance and high strength fibers to the clothing was examined and the consistent theory through the fiber-yarn-fabric-garment was proposed. Less