Analysis of Fabric Hand of High-guality Apparel Fabrics on the Basis of Objective Evaluation Technigue and the Design and Development of the High-performance Fabrics

高品质的服装面料必须具备：(1)高品质的面料手感；(2)面料的机械性能，能使裁剪出漂亮的妆容；(3)适宜的热和水传输性能。近年来，Kawabata和Niwa发展了一种客观评价织物手感和织物质量的方法。在本研究的第一部分，进行了提高织物质量评价准确性的尝试。建立了评价织物原始值和品质值(THV)的几个新方程，并检验了它们的评价能力。对仿真丝等织物手感进行了判别分析。这一分析是对织物手感基本客观评价技术的应用，对于如何通过改善织物的力学性能来接近手感具有重要意义。为提高织物手感评定的准确性，研制了织物表面分析设备和极低负荷压缩试验机。介绍了织物手感的耐久性测试方法，以及如何预测织物手感的变化和织物穿着时的质量变化；第二部分介绍了测试织物水、热传输性能和透气性的新设备，并介绍了它们在织物评价研究中的应用；第三部分将客观评价方法应用到新织物的设计中。含有马海毛纤维的高品质夏季套装被价格比马海毛纤维便宜得多的新西兰粗羊毛套装所取代，而不损失其高档次。对这种新面料的各项性能进行了评价和报告。这一发展将成为未来高档面料发展的新检验案例。

High quality fabric for apparel use must possess ; (1) high grade of fabric hand (2) fabric mechanical property which enables to make a beautiful making-up of tailoring (3) suitable thermal and water transport property. In the recent years, the objective method to evaluate the fabric hand and the fabric quality has been developed by Kawabata and Niwa.In the first part of this reserch, the trials to improve the accuracy of the quality ealuation of fabric is carried out. Several new equations evaluating the fabric primary hand values and quality value(THV) are developed and inspected their evaluation ability. The discriminant analysis of the fabric hand such as silk-like etc. is carried out. This analysis is an Application of the basic objective evaluation technique of fabric hand and important to obtain an information how to approach to sili-hand by improving fabric mechanical property. A fabric- surface analysing equipment and a very low-load compression tester are developed to improve the evaluation accuracy of fabric hand. The durability testing of fabric hand is introduced and it is shown how to predict the change in fabric hand and quality during wearing of qarment.In the second part, new equipments measuring (1) water, heat transport properties and (2) air permeability of fabric are introduced and their application to the research on fabric evaluation is presented.In the third part, the objective evaluation method is applied to the design of new fabric. The high Quality summer summer suiting containing mohair fiber is replaced without any loss of their high grade by the suiting containing New Zealand coarse wool of which price is much cheaper than that of mohair fiber. All of the performances of this new fabric is evaluated and reported. This development will become a new test case for the future development of high grade fabrics.