Analysis of Fabric Hand of High-guality Apparel Fabrics on the Basis of Objective Evaluation Technigue and the Design and Development of the High-performance Fabrics

高质量的服装面料必须具备；(1)织物手感高档；(2)织物的机械性能使其能制作精美的剪裁；(3)适宜的热、水输送性能。近年来，川端康成（Kawabata）和丹羽宇一郎（Niwa）等人提出了一种评价织物手感和织物质量的客观方法。在本研究的第一部分，为提高织物质量评价的准确性进行了试验。建立了评价织物一手价值和质量价值的几个新方程，并检验了它们的评价能力。对真丝等织物进行了判别分析。本文的分析是织物手性基本客观评价技术的应用，对如何通过改善织物力学性能来达到织物手性具有重要意义。为提高织物手感的评定精度，研制了织物表面分析装置和极低负荷压缩试验机。介绍了织物手的耐久性测试，并介绍了如何预测服装穿着过程中织物手的变化和质量。第二部分介绍了测量织物的水、热、透气性的新设备及其在织物评价研究中的应用。第三部分，将客观评价方法应用于新面料的设计。用新西兰粗羊毛代替含有马海毛纤维的高品质夏装，在不降低其高品质的前提下，其价格远低于含有马海毛纤维的新西兰粗羊毛。对这种新型织物的各项性能进行了评价和报道。这一发展将成为未来高档面料发展的新试验案例。

High quality fabric for apparel use must possess ; (1) high grade of fabric hand (2) fabric mechanical property which enables to make a beautiful making-up of tailoring (3) suitable thermal and water transport property. In the recent years, the objective method to evaluate the fabric hand and the fabric quality has been developed by Kawabata and Niwa.In the first part of this reserch, the trials to improve the accuracy of the quality ealuation of fabric is carried out. Several new equations evaluating the fabric primary hand values and quality value(THV) are developed and inspected their evaluation ability. The discriminant analysis of the fabric hand such as silk-like etc. is carried out. This analysis is an Application of the basic objective evaluation technique of fabric hand and important to obtain an information how to approach to sili-hand by improving fabric mechanical property. A fabric- surface analysing equipment and a very low-load compression tester are developed to improve the evaluation accuracy of fabric hand. The durability testing of fabric hand is introduced and it is shown how to predict the change in fabric hand and quality during wearing of qarment.In the second part, new equipments measuring (1) water, heat transport properties and (2) air permeability of fabric are introduced and their application to the research on fabric evaluation is presented.In the third part, the objective evaluation method is applied to the design of new fabric. The high Quality summer summer suiting containing mohair fiber is replaced without any loss of their high grade by the suiting containing New Zealand coarse wool of which price is much cheaper than that of mohair fiber. All of the performances of this new fabric is evaluated and reported. This development will become a new test case for the future development of high grade fabrics.