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Analysis of Fabric Hand of High-guality Apparel Fabrics on the Basis of Objective Evaluation Technigue and the Design and Development of the High-performance Fabrics

基于客观评价技术的高档服装面料手感分析及高性能面料的设计开发

基本信息

批准号：
61300012
负责人：
NIWA Masako
金额：
$ 8.06万
依托单位：
Nara Women's University
依托单位国家：
日本
项目类别：
Grant-in-Aid for Co-operative Research (A)
财政年份：
1986
资助国家：
日本
起止时间：
1986 至 1987
项目状态：
已结题

项目摘要

High quality fabric for apparel use must possess ; (1) high grade of fabric hand (2) fabric mechanical property which enables to make a beautiful making-up of tailoring (3) suitable thermal and water transport property. In the recent years, the objective method to evaluate the fabric hand and the fabric quality has been developed by Kawabata and Niwa.In the first part of this reserch, the trials to improve the accuracy of the quality ealuation of fabric is carried out. Several new equations evaluating the fabric primary hand values and quality value(THV) are developed and inspected their evaluation ability. The discriminant analysis of the fabric hand such as silk-like etc. is carried out. This analysis is an Application of the basic objective evaluation technique of fabric hand and important to obtain an information how to approach to sili-hand by improving fabric mechanical property. A fabric- surface analysing equipment and a very low-load compression tester are developed to improve the evaluation accuracy of fabric hand. The durability testing of fabric hand is introduced and it is shown how to predict the change in fabric hand and quality during wearing of qarment.In the second part, new equipments measuring (1) water, heat transport properties and (2) air permeability of fabric are introduced and their application to the research on fabric evaluation is presented.In the third part, the objective evaluation method is applied to the design of new fabric. The high Quality summer summer suiting containing mohair fiber is replaced without any loss of their high grade by the suiting containing New Zealand coarse wool of which price is much cheaper than that of mohair fiber. All of the performances of this new fabric is evaluated and reported. This development will become a new test case for the future development of high grade fabrics.

高质量的服装用织物必须具备：（1）高等级的织物手感;（2）织物的机械性能，使服装具有美观的外观;（3）适当的热传导和水传导性能。近年来，Kawabata和Niwa发展了织物手感和织物质量的客观评价方法，本文第一部分对提高织物质量评价的准确性进行了试验。提出了几种新的织物手感和质量评价方程，并对它们的评价能力进行了检验。对仿丝绸等织物风格进行了判别分析。这一分析是织物手感客观评价基本技术的应用，对于获得如何通过改善织物力学性能来接近手感的信息具有重要意义。为了提高织物风格评价的准确性，研制了织物表面分析装置和超低负荷压缩试验机。本文介绍了织物手感耐久性测试方法，以及如何预测服装穿着过程中织物手感和质量的变化。第二部分介绍了测试织物水、热传递性能和透气性能的新设备及其在织物评价研究中的应用。第三部分介绍了织物手感耐久性测试方法，并对织物手感耐久性测试方法进行了讨论。将客观评价方法应用于新织物的设计。用新西兰粗毛取代马海毛夏季花呢，价格比马海毛便宜得多，但又不失高档。对该织物的各项性能进行了评价和报告。这一发展将成为未来高档面料发展的一个新的试验案例。