The Optimum Silhouette Design of Garments Based on Fabric Mechanical Properties and Control of the Sewing System

基于织物力学性能和缝制系统控制的服装优化廓形设计

• 批准号: 05402059
• 负责人: NIWA Masako
• 金额: $ 10.18万
• 依托单位: Nara Women's University
• 依托单位国家: 日本
• 项目类别: Grant-in-Aid for General Scientific Research (A)
• 财政年份: 1993
• 资助国家: 日本
• 起止时间: 1993 至 1995
• 项目状态: 已结题
• 来源: https://kaken.nii.ac.jp/grant/KAKENHI-PROJECT-05402059/
• 关键词: silhouette design; sewing process control; optimum machine stitch; seam puckering; dynamic tension of needle and bobbin thread; mechanical properties of fabrics and threads; apparel design; high quality apparel; 縫製システム; ミシンの上下糸バランス; 上下糸の動的張力; 衣

The main critical requirements in deciding the quality of clothing is an adaptation to the human sense, or the feeling of ease-of-mind. This includes visual aesthetic sense and wearer comfort. In order to design and make top-quality garments in the present-day apparel industry, it has become necessary to establish an objective evaluation method of fabric formability and tailorability, factors that have important influence on the aesthetic appeal of the garment.However, the procedure of designing garments still relies primarily on designers' intuitive sense through long experience. The variety of textile materials used for ladies' garments is continually increasing. In addition to conventional fabrics constructed from natural fibers or man-made fibers, new materials with different properties from those of conventional materials are also being supplied by textile manufacturers using special techniques for fiber forming control and fiber assembly structure control, such as spinning, weavi … More ng, etc.. Some examples of these fabrics are "SHINGOSEN" and "New Generation Wool". As even veteran apparel designers have little experience in woking with these new materials, their intuitive sense is less effective in decisions concerning optimum silhouette design and tailoring process controls that take fabric sewability into consideration. Therefore, it can be said that the present manufacturing system may lead to problems in manufacturing and consumption because of lack of information about the new materials.The objective of this study is to contribute to the realization of more comfortable wear life through an effective cycle of the production and consumption of high quality garments. A designing method for the optimum silhouette of clothing was developed based on fabric basic mechanical properties, and the applicability of this method in actual factories was verified through the cooperation of researchers in both Japan and foreign countries. As engineering control of the sewing process using a fabric's basic mechanical properties is necessary to construct high quality garments, a control method for sewing conditions, such as the type of machine thread and machine needle, and the various operation conditions of the sewing machine was obtained in order to form an optimum stitch with no seam pucker, seam damage, or seam slippage.The results obtained in this study are summarized as follows.(1) Decision of an optimum silhouette based on a fabric's basic mechanical properties and the clarification of the range of mechanical properties of high quality fabrics.(2) New development of an objective measurement method of seam pucker using a laser scanning tester, a measuring method of the dynamic tension of both the needle thread and bobbin thread, and the preparation of basic data for the control of sewing conditions by theoretical analyzes.(3) The systemization of the sewing process and inspection of applicability in the actual factory work to produce high quality apparel based on a fabric's basic mechanical properties. Less

决定服装质量的主要关键要求是对人类感官的适应，或者说是安心的感觉。这包括视觉美感和佩戴者舒适度。当今服装行业，为了设计和制作出高品质的服装，有必要建立一种客观的评价方法，评价面料的成形性和可剪裁性等对服装美观有重要影响的因素，但服装设计的过程仍然主要依赖于设计师长期经验的直觉。用于女士服装的纺织材料的种类不断增加。除了由天然纤维或人造纤维构成的传统织物之外，纺织品制造商还使用特殊的纤维成形控制和纤维集合体结构控制技术，如纺纱、织造、热处理和热处理，来提供与传统材料具有不同性能的新材料。 ...更多信息 ng等。这些织物的一些例子是“SHINGOSEN”和“新一代羊毛”。由于即使是经验丰富的服装设计师在使用这些新材料方面也缺乏经验，因此他们的直觉在考虑面料缝纫性的最佳廓形设计和剪裁工艺控制方面的决策不太有效。因此，可以说，目前的制造系统可能会导致问题的制造和消费，因为缺乏有关新材料的信息。本研究的目的是通过生产和消费的高品质服装的有效循环，为实现更舒适的穿着生活。提出了一种基于织物基本力学性能的服装最佳廓形设计方法，并通过与国内外研究人员的合作，验证了该方法在实际工厂中的适用性。由于使用织物的基本机械性能对缝纫过程进行工程控制对于制造高质量的服装是必要的，因此获得了缝纫条件的控制方法，例如机线和机针的类型，以及缝纫机的各种操作条件，以便形成没有接缝起皱、接缝损坏，或接缝滑移。在这项研究中获得的结果总结如下。(1)根据织物的基本机械性能和高品质织物的机械性能范围确定最佳轮廓。(2)新开发了用激光扫描仪客观测量缝纫线缝褶的方法，以及针线和底线动态张力的测量方法，并通过理论分析为缝纫条件的控制准备了基础数据。(3)缝纫过程的系统化和在实际工厂工作中的适用性检查，以根据织物的基本机械性能生产高质量的服装。少

项目成果

Miyuki Mori and Masako Niwa: "Investigation on the Performance of Sewing Thread" Proc.of the 22nd Thxtile Research Symposium at Mt.Fuji. 207-216 (1993)

Miyuki Mori 和 Masako Niwa：“缝纫线性能的调查”，第 22 届 Thxtile 研究研讨会在富士山举行。

Masako Ayada, MikiKo Miki and Masako Niwa: "Evaluation Method of Deformation of Knitted Fabrics by Dynamic Creep Test" J.Japan Assn.Text.End-Uses. (in preparation).

Masako Ayada、MikiKo Miki 和 Masako Niwa：“通过动态蠕变试验评价针织物变形的方法”J.Japan Assn.Text.End-Uses。

Sueo Kawabata and Masako Niwa: "Application of Fabric Objective Data to Garment Manufacturing, The Present and Future" Proc.of the Deutsches Wollforshungsinstitut Seminar. 1-8 (1995)

Sueo Kawabata 和 Masako Niwa：“织物客观数据在服装制造中的应用，现在和未来”德国 Wollforshungsinstitut 研讨会的 Proc.。

丹羽雅子,森美友喜: "縫糸の撚角度変化による縫目構造中の糸張力の推定" 日本家政学会誌(第48回日本家政学会発表予定、1996年6月). (投稿予定).

Masako Niwa、Yuki Morimi：“通过改变缝纫线的扭转角度来估计接缝结构中的线张力”日本家政学会杂志（计划在第 48 届日本家政学会上发表，1996 年 6 月）（待定）。已提交）。

Miyuki Mori and Masako Niwa: "The Effects of Sewing Machine Needle and Bobbin Thread Tension on Seam Balance and Seam Puckering" International Journal of Clothing Scienec and Technology (The 25th Textile Research Symposium at Mt.Fuji 発表予定、1996年8月). (投稿予定)

Miyuki Mori 和 Masako Niwa：“缝纫机针和底线张力对接缝平衡和接缝褶皱的影响”国际服装科学技术杂志（1996 年 8 月在富士山举行的第 25 届纺织研究研讨会上发表）。 （预定发布）