The Optimum Silhouette Design of Garments Based on Fabric Mechanical Properties and Control of the Sewing System

决定服装质量的主要关键要求是适应人类的感觉，或者说心灵的舒适感。这包括视觉美感和佩戴者的舒适感。为了在当今的服装行业中设计和制造出高质量的服装，需要建立一种客观的面料成形性和裁剪性的评价方法，这两个因素对服装的审美吸引力有重要影响。但服装设计的过程仍然主要依赖于设计师长期经验的直觉。用于女装的纺织材料的种类在不断增加。除了由天然纤维或人造纤维制成的传统织物外，纺织制造商还使用特殊的纤维形成控制和纤维组装结构控制技术，如纺纱、织造和…，提供与传统材料不同性能的新材料更多的NG等。这些面料的一些例子是“ShingOsen”和“New Generation Wool”。由于即使是经验丰富的服装设计师在使用这些新材料方面也缺乏经验，他们的直觉在决定最佳剪裁设计和考虑面料可缝合性的裁剪过程控制时效率较低。因此，可以说，目前的制造系统可能会因为缺乏关于新材料的信息而导致制造和消费方面的问题。本研究的目的是通过高品质服装的生产和消费的有效循环，为实现更舒适的穿着寿命做出贡献。提出了一种基于织物基本力学性能的服装最佳剪裁设计方法，并通过国内外研究人员的合作，验证了该方法在实际工厂中的适用性。由于利用面料的基本力学性能对缝制过程进行工程控制是制作高品质服装所必需的，因此，为了形成无缝皱、无缝损伤、无缝滑的最佳缝制，获得了一种缝制条件的控制方法，如机线和机针的类型以及缝纫机的各种操作条件。本研究的结果总结如下：(1)根据面料的基本力学性能和阐明高质量面料的力学性能范围来确定最佳的轮廓。(2)利用激光扫描测试仪对缝线折皱的客观测量方法的新发展，提出了针线和纱线动态张力的测量方法，并通过理论分析为缝制条件的控制准备了基础数据。(3)根据面料的基本力学性能，对缝制工艺进行系统化，并检验其在工厂实际工作中的适用性。较少

The main critical requirements in deciding the quality of clothing is an adaptation to the human sense, or the feeling of ease-of-mind. This includes visual aesthetic sense and wearer comfort. In order to design and make top-quality garments in the present-day apparel industry, it has become necessary to establish an objective evaluation method of fabric formability and tailorability, factors that have important influence on the aesthetic appeal of the garment.However, the procedure of designing garments still relies primarily on designers' intuitive sense through long experience. The variety of textile materials used for ladies' garments is continually increasing. In addition to conventional fabrics constructed from natural fibers or man-made fibers, new materials with different properties from those of conventional materials are also being supplied by textile manufacturers using special techniques for fiber forming control and fiber assembly structure control, such as spinning, weavi … More ng, etc.. Some examples of these fabrics are "SHINGOSEN" and "New Generation Wool". As even veteran apparel designers have little experience in woking with these new materials, their intuitive sense is less effective in decisions concerning optimum silhouette design and tailoring process controls that take fabric sewability into consideration. Therefore, it can be said that the present manufacturing system may lead to problems in manufacturing and consumption because of lack of information about the new materials.The objective of this study is to contribute to the realization of more comfortable wear life through an effective cycle of the production and consumption of high quality garments. A designing method for the optimum silhouette of clothing was developed based on fabric basic mechanical properties, and the applicability of this method in actual factories was verified through the cooperation of researchers in both Japan and foreign countries. As engineering control of the sewing process using a fabric's basic mechanical properties is necessary to construct high quality garments, a control method for sewing conditions, such as the type of machine thread and machine needle, and the various operation conditions of the sewing machine was obtained in order to form an optimum stitch with no seam pucker, seam damage, or seam slippage.The results obtained in this study are summarized as follows.(1) Decision of an optimum silhouette based on a fabric's basic mechanical properties and the clarification of the range of mechanical properties of high quality fabrics.(2) New development of an objective measurement method of seam pucker using a laser scanning tester, a measuring method of the dynamic tension of both the needle thread and bobbin thread, and the preparation of basic data for the control of sewing conditions by theoretical analyzes.(3) The systemization of the sewing process and inspection of applicability in the actual factory work to produce high quality apparel based on a fabric's basic mechanical properties. Less