Studies on Scientific Analysis of Materials, Techniques and Their Historical Contexts of Jinbaori

Jinbaori或运动外套是日本武士自世纪以来穿在盔甲上的外套，一直使用到世纪中期。本研究旨在对隅研究所收藏的104件金宝日和共立女子大学收藏的两件金宝日进行研究，以探讨其特征并将其置于历史背景中。首先从风格功能、材料、装饰元素等方面进行分析。其次，采用分光光度计对金宝日面料的颜色进行了测试，并对面料的纤维进行了扫描电镜分析。将包括染料和媒染剂分析在内的科学分析解释到纺织技术的历史背景中。分析了江户时代（1603-1867年）37个金宝日使用的红色羊毛织物的颜色、染料和媒染剂。将颜色绘制在L*a*B* 色度系统上。采用高效液相色谱-光电二极管阵列检测器对染料进行分析，采用X射线荧光光谱法对织物上的媒染剂进行检测。从蓝红色的金宝日中检出铝媒染胭脂虫染料。经实物检验和科学分析，认为金宝日由江户早期的1件、中期的10件和后期的95件组成，反映了西方纺织文化和时尚的影响，日本武士的美学

Jinbaori or a campaign coat was an outer garment worn over armors by Japanese warriors since the 16th century and was continually used until the middle of the 19th century. This research intended to examine 104 pieces of Jinbaori in the collection of Sumi Research Institute and two pieces in the collection of Kyoritsu Women's University in order to explore their characteristic features and to place them in historical contexts. Firstly styles functions, materials, decorative elements were examined. Secondly colors of outer fabrics on Jinbaori were measured by spectrophotometer and their fibers were analyzed by scanning Electron Microscope. Scientific analysis including dye and mordant analysis was interpreted into historical contexts of textile technology Colors, dyes and mordants of red woolen fabrics used for 37 Jinbaori of the Edo period (1603-1867) were analyzed. The colors were plotted on the L*a*b* chromatic system. The dyes were analyzed by high performance liquid chromatography with photo-diode array detector, and mordants on fabrics were detected by X-ray fluorescence spectroscopy. Cochineal dye with aluminum mordant was detected from bluish-red Jinbaori. Cochineal, lac, and a combination of cochineal and lac dyed with aluminum and tin mordants were identified in yellowish-red Jinbaori As the results of object examination and scientific analysis the study concluded those Jinbaori consists of 1 from the early Edo period, 10 from the middle of Edo period, and 95 from the Late Edo period, those of which reflected influence of Western textile culture and fashion, and aesthetics of Japanese warriors.