Developments of a generalized new wave theory to advance coastal hydrodynamics

广义新波浪理论的发展促进沿海水动力研究

• 批准号: 08455228
• 负责人: NADAOKA Kazuo
• 金额: $ 4.16万
• 依托单位: Tokyo Institute of Technology
• 依托单位国家: 日本
• 项目类别: Grant-in-Aid for Scientific Research (B)
• 财政年份: 1996
• 资助国家: 日本
• 起止时间: 1996 至 1997
• 项目状态: 已结题
• 来源: https://kaken.nii.ac.jp/grant/KAKENHI-PROJECT-08455228/
• 关键词: wave equation; wave breaking; pressure gradient; breaking waves; turbulence model; phase-averaged model; long wave evolution; wave overtopping; 渦度; 砕波減衰; スペクトルモデル

Toward the establishment of a general theory on water waves, numerical analysis and laboratory experiments on wave breaking were executed first in this study. Their results revealed that when a wave breaks the vertical pressure gradient becomes zero near the wave crest, suggesting that the vertical pressure gradient may be used as a useful breaking criterion. Incorporating this criterion into the wave model by Nadaoka et al. (1994-97), which can describe wave evolution at arbitrary depths under nonlinear and dispersive effects, a numerical simulation was performed for wave train traveling over a slope. The numerical results on the breaker depth show good agreements with those by Goda's empirical criterion. A breaking wave model was also developed in which a depth-integrated formulation is employed and the turbulence energy source due to the large-eddy production at the breaking wave crest is formulated. This model was demonstrated to give satisfactory results even for irregular waves breaking over slopes with various profiles. As another main subject of the study, phase-averaged models both for the Boussinesq equations and Nadaoka et al's equations were developed. These phase-averaged type models may serve CPU time quite efficiently and simulate nonlinear evolution of carrier and associated long waves. In relation to this work, a field observation was performed at Kajima port facing the Pacific Ocean to reveal the characteristics of long waves associated with group waves. Further the wave model by Nadaoka et al.was extended to handle waves generated by impinging of water mass overtopping a breakwater.

为了建立水波的一般理论，本研究首先进行了波浪破碎的数值分析和实验研究。他们的结果表明，当波浪破碎时，垂直压力梯度在波峰附近变为零，这表明垂直压力梯度可以用作有用的破碎标准。将这一准则推广到Nadaoka等（1994-97）的波浪模型中，该模型可以描述任意深度的波浪在非线性和频散作用下的演化过程。数值计算结果与Goda的经验判据吻合较好。破碎波模型也被开发，其中采用的深度积分公式和湍流能量源，由于破碎波波峰的大涡产生制定。该模型被证明即使对于不规则波在不同剖面的斜坡上破碎也能给出令人满意的结果。作为研究的另一个主要课题，开发了Boussinesq方程和Nadaoka等人方程的相位平均模型。这些相位平均型模型可以相当有效地服务于CPU时间，并模拟载波和相关长波的非线性演化。与这项工作相关的是，在面向太平洋的鹿岛港进行了现场观测，以揭示与群波相关的长波特征。进一步将Nadaoka等人的波浪模型扩展到处理漫堤水体撞击所产生的波浪。

项目成果

Serdar BEJI, Kazuo NADAOKA: "Spectral modelling of nonlinear wave shoaling and breaking over arbitrary depths" Coastal Dynamics'97,Int.Conf.on Coastal Research through Large Scale Experiments,1997. (印刷中). (1997)

Serdar BEJI、Kazuo NADAOKA：“非线性波浪浅滩和突破任意深度的光谱建模”Coastal Dynamics97，Int.Conf.on Coastal Research through Large Scale Experiments，1997（出版中）。

Serdar BEJI,Kazuo NADAOKA: "Spectral modelling of nonlinear wave shoaling and breaking over arbitrary depths" Coastal Dynamics '97, Int.Conf.on Coastal Research through Large Scale Experiments. (in press). (1997)

Serdar BEJI、Kazuo NADAOKA：“非线性波浪浅滩和任意深度突破的光谱建模”海岸动力学 97，通过大规模实验进行海岸研究国际会议。

Yukinobu ODA,Takao TOE,Kazuo NADAOKA: "A Numerical Method for Waves Overtopping a Breakwater Taking into Account Momentum Flux" Proceedings of Coastal Engineering, JSCE. Vol.44. 751-755 (1997)

Yukinobu ODA、Takao TOE、Kazuo NADAOKA：“考虑动量通量的波浪越过防波堤的数值方法”海岸工程论文集，JSCE。

Kazuo NADAOKA, Serdar BEJI, Yasuyuki NAKAGAWA: "A fully dispersive weakly nonlinear model for water waves" Proc.Royal Society of London,Series A. Vol.453. 308-318 (1997)

Kazuo NADAOKA、Serdar BEJI、Yasuyuki NAKAGAWA：“水波的完全色散弱非线性模型”Proc.伦敦皇家学会，A 系列，第 453 卷。

土田 充・灘岡 和夫・西村 剛士・佐藤 恒夫・山口 孝市・平石 哲也: "多点観測による港内外の波浪特性と港内係留船舶の長周期動揺特性について" 海岸工学論文集. 44巻. 231-235 (1997)

Mitsuru Tsuchida、Kazuo Nadaoka、Takeshi Nishimura、Tsuneo Sato、Takashi Yamaguchi、Tetsuya Hiraishi：“通过多点观测了解港口内外的波浪特征以及停泊在港口的船舶的长周期运动特征” Journal of Coastal工程。第 44 卷。231 -235 (1997)