Bioinspired textiles: an investigation into biomimetic principles and their application to sustainable textile design and making processes

艾伦·麦克阿瑟基金会（Ellen MacArthur Foundation）最近发布的一份关于“新纺织经济”（2017）的报告强调了时尚和纺织行业目前面临的挑战，这些挑战与全球生产和消费实践有关，对环境构成威胁，不再可持续。自2000年以来，全球服装产量增加了一倍多：大约2720升水用于制造无处不在的T恤;平均每件衣服在其一生中只穿四次;而95%的服装可能以某种形式回收利用。在循环经济中设计和生产可持续纺织品的实用方法越来越受欢迎。为了应对这一迫切需要，拟议的研究旨在引入以实践为导向的仿生原理及其在纺织和服装领域的潜力。PI将建立在她的博士研究和设计实践的基础上，通过将生物学的机制和功能转移到纺织品设计过程中，开创了一种新颖的跨学科纺织品设计和构造方法。其总体目的是在循环设计经济中建立一种跨学科的纺织品设计和生产方法，将仿生原理、纺织和材料科学结合在一起，以推进可持续的最先进（SoA）方法。初步研究发现，专业设计和生物学科之间缺乏相应的信息（Kapsali，博士2009）。因此，PI将通过借鉴Naleway等人（2015）开创的称为“生物结构设计元素”（BSDEs）的已知框架来解决这些领域之间的文化和概念障碍。BSDES提供了关于各种生物材料中存在的机制和行为的性质的简化信息（包括例如它们的韧性和强度），为材料科学界设计和开发复合材料提供信息。通过调整Naleway等人的模型，PI将专门为纺织品设计社区创建一个更相关的仿生框架。原始的Bethesda系统的优点是它使用视觉而不是纯数学语言，这是一种创造性社区可以使用的方法，来传达关于生物材料的机械和行为方面的SoA结构信息。PI的目的是根据一系列研讨会的结果，为纺织品设计师介绍两种新的BSDE。PI将创建包含两个额外BSDES的物理纺织品演示器，然后演示器将作为纺织品环境中仿生原理的交流，评估和评估的基本工具。 该工具本身将以题为“仿生纺织品设计与实践”（BTDP 1-3）的三个研讨会的形式向应用和工业纺织品部门的代表介绍。研讨会的参与者将通过与演示者的互动和参与式讨论，实践和理论原型，继续研究在纺织品设计过程中应用BSDES的策略。 通过研讨会前后的访谈和研讨会后的设计简介，将评估研讨会对参与者理解生物机制和他们自己的设计实践的影响。设计输出分析的基准标准将从仿生设计，圆形设计原则和可持续纺织品设计的文献综述中创建。作为传播纺织品设计仿生方法的一个可行工具，将通过讲习班后对个别参与者的访谈反馈以及向行业、学术和政策专家咨询小组的介绍，对讲习班模板进行评估，以期形成一个可供广泛受众使用的模型。

A recent report published by the Ellen MacArthur Foundation on 'a new textiles economy' (2017) highlights current challenges for the fashion and textile sectors pertaining to global production and consumption practices that are a threat to the environment and no longer sustainable. Since the year 2000, global clothing production has more than doubled: approximately 2720 litres of water are used to make the ubiquitous t-shirt; the average garment is worn just four times in its lifetime; while 95% of clothing could potentially be recycled in some form. Practical approaches to the design and production of sustainable textiles within a circular economy are increasingly called for. In response to this imperative, the proposed research seeks to introduce practice-led engagement in biomimetic principles and their potential in textile and apparel contexts. The PI will build upon her doctoral research and design practice, which pioneered a novel, interdisciplinary approach to textile design and construction by transferring mechanisms and functionalities from biology into the textile design process. The overall intention is to establish an interdisciplinary approach to textile design and production within a circular design economy by drawing together biomimetic principles, textile and materials science to advance sustainable state-of-the-art (SoA) methods. Preliminary research identifies the lack of corresponding information between professional design and biology disciplines (Kapsali, PhD 2009). The PI will therefore address cultural and conceptual barriers between these realms by drawing upon a known framework pioneered by Naleway et al. (2015) referred to as 'Biological Structural Design Elements' (BSDEs). BSDEs provide streamlined information on the nature of mechanisms and behaviours presented in various biological materials (including, for example, their toughness and strength) to inform the design and development of composite materials for materials science communities. By adapting the Naleway et al. model, the PI will create a more relevant biomimetic framework specifically for textile design communities. The advantage of the original BSDE system is that it uses visual rather than pure mathematical language, an approach that is accessible to creative communities, to convey SoA structural information on the mechanical and behavioural aspects of biological materials. The PI's aim is to introduce two new BSDEs, based on findings from a series of workshops, for the benefit of textiles designers. The PI will create physical textile demonstrators incorporating the two additional BSDEs, and the demonstrators will then serve as a fundamental tool for the communication, evaluation and assessment of biomimetic principles in textile contexts. The tool itself will be presented to representatives from the applied and industrial textile sectors in the form of three workshops entitled 'Biomimetic Textiles Design and Practice' (BTDP 1-3). Workshop participants will go on to investigate strategies for the application of the BSDEs within textile design processes via interactions with the demonstrators and participatory discussions, practice and theory prototyping. Workshop impact on participants' understanding of biological mechanisms and their own design practice will be assessed via pre- and post-workshop interviews and the setting of a post-workshop design brief. Benchmark criteria for analysis of design outputs will be created from the literature review of biomimetic design, circular design principles and sustainable textile design. The workshop template's evaluation, as a viable tool for disseminating biomimetic approaches to textile design, will be carried out via feedback from individual participant interviews post-workshop, and a presentation to an Advisory Group of industry, academic and policy experts, with a view to evolving a model that can be deployed to a wide range of audiences.