A Shape Analysis of Human Shoulders Based on the Construction of Shoulder Girdle and its Application to Basic Dress Pattern Design.

为了对服装基本图案设计进行理论分析，我们对人体肩部形状进行了三维分析，因为人体肩部以肩带为基础的解剖结构非常复杂，而且个体之间的差异也很大。分析了人体肩部形状特征与其表面发展的关系，从而提出了适合每个人的服装样式的构建思路。实验结果如下：1.实验结果表明：设计了一个由四个测距仪组成的三维测量系统，可以在5秒内测量出人体的整体形状，测量精度高。用上述方法测量了57名成年女性的石膏人肩，也测量了人体测量学。对人体测量数据进行主成分分析，提取与肩部形状有关的两个主成分。每个组成部分都是肩部形状的复杂因素，如倾斜的肩膀，向前突出的肩膀和圆肩或弯曲的背部。根据pca因子得分将每个样本分为四类。通过对同一样品肩部部分表面发育模式的分析，发现肩部形状的变化在发育模式上具有一定的特征，即前、后两部分发育宽度的平衡；缝隙的长度、数量和形状对发展模式产生了影响。在某些情况下，肩部的不同形状特征在发育模式上显示出相同的特征。这些结果将引导我们做出新的基本服装图案，使服装更容易穿在肩膀上。

For the purpose of theoretical analysis of basic dress pattern design, human shoulders shapes were analyzed three dimensionally, because they has very complex anatomical structure based on the shoulder girdle and they also has very large variation among individuals. An analysis concerning the relation between human shoulders shape characteristics and its surface development was considered to lead us to think out a idea for the construction of dress patterns which would fit each individual person. The results were as Follows ;1. An three-dimensional measuring system using four range-finders was equipped which could measure whole human body shape within five seconds with high measuring accuracy.2. Plaster figures of human shoulders which had been molded out of fifty seven adult women were measured using above system and were also measured anthropometrically. The principal component analysis (PCA) was carried out against the anthropometric measurements, and two principal components concerning the shoulders shape were extracted. Each component was realized as complex of factors of the shoulders shape such as sloping shoulders, forward-protrudent shoulders and round shoulders or a bent back. Every samples were classified into four types according to the factor scores of PCA.3. The analyzes of surface development patterns of the shoulders part of the same samples resulted in that the variation of ones shoulder shapes bore some specific features on the development patterns, i. e. , the balance of the width of the development of front part and that of back ; the length, quantity and shape of the chink which yielded on the development patterns. In some cases different shape features on the shoulders came to show the same feature on the development patterns. These results will lead us to proper idea for making new basic dress pattern with which the dress fits easily on ones shoulders.