Bioinspired textiles: an investigation into biomimetic principles and their application to sustainable textile design and making processes

艾伦·麦克阿瑟基金会(Ellen MacArthur Foundation)最近发布的一份关于“新纺织品经济”(2017)的报告强调了时装和纺织业目前面临的挑战，这些挑战与全球生产和消费做法有关，这些做法对环境构成威胁，不再可持续。自2000年以来，全球服装产量翻了一番以上：大约2720升水被用来制作无处不在的t恤；一件衣服在其一生中平均只穿了四次；而95%的衣服可能会以某种形式被回收利用。人们越来越需要在循环经济中设计和生产可持续纺织品的实际办法。作为对这一迫切需要的回应，拟议的研究试图引入以实践为导向的仿生原理及其在纺织和服装领域的潜力。PI将建立在她的博士研究和设计实践的基础上，通过将机制和功能从生物学转移到纺织品设计过程中，开创了一种新颖的、跨学科的纺织品设计和构造方法。其总体意图是通过将仿生学原理、纺织和材料科学结合起来，在循环设计经济中建立一种跨学科的纺织品设计和生产方法，以推进可持续的最先进(SOA)方法。初步研究发现，专业设计和生物学学科之间缺乏相应的信息(Kapsali，博士，2009)。因此，PI将通过借鉴Naleway等人开创的已知框架来解决这些领域之间的文化和概念障碍。(2015)被称为生物结构设计元素(BSDE)。BSDE提供关于各种生物材料(例如，包括其韧性和强度)的机制和行为的性质的简化信息，以便为材料科学界设计和开发复合材料提供信息。通过改编Naleway等人的作品。模型，PI将创建一个更相关的仿生框架，专门用于纺织品设计社区。最初的BSDE系统的优势在于，它使用视觉语言而不是纯数学语言，这是一种创意社区可以使用的方法，以传达关于生物材料的机械和行为方面的SOA结构信息。国际纺织品协会的目标是根据一系列研讨会的结果，推出两个新的BSDE，以使纺织品设计师受益。PI将创建包含另外两个BSDE的实物纺织品演示程序，然后演示程序将成为在纺织品环境中交流、评估和评估仿生原理的基本工具。该工具本身将以题为“仿生纺织品设计和实践”(BTDP 1-3)的三个讲习班的形式介绍给应用和工业纺织界的代表。研讨会参与者将继续通过与演示者的互动以及参与性讨论、实践和理论原型来研究在纺织品设计过程中应用BSDE的策略。将通过讲习班前和讲习班后的面谈以及讲习班后设计概要的制定，评估讲习班对学员对生物机制和他们自己的设计实践的理解的影响。将通过对仿生设计、循环设计原则和可持续纺织品设计的文献回顾，创建分析设计产出的基准标准。作为传播仿生纺织品设计方法的一种可行工具，讲习班模板的评价将通过讲习班后个别参与者面谈的反馈进行，并向由工业、学术和政策专家组成的咨询小组进行介绍，以期形成一种可广泛应用于各种受众的模式。

A recent report published by the Ellen MacArthur Foundation on 'a new textiles economy' (2017) highlights current challenges for the fashion and textile sectors pertaining to global production and consumption practices that are a threat to the environment and no longer sustainable. Since the year 2000, global clothing production has more than doubled: approximately 2720 litres of water are used to make the ubiquitous t-shirt; the average garment is worn just four times in its lifetime; while 95% of clothing could potentially be recycled in some form. Practical approaches to the design and production of sustainable textiles within a circular economy are increasingly called for. In response to this imperative, the proposed research seeks to introduce practice-led engagement in biomimetic principles and their potential in textile and apparel contexts. The PI will build upon her doctoral research and design practice, which pioneered a novel, interdisciplinary approach to textile design and construction by transferring mechanisms and functionalities from biology into the textile design process. The overall intention is to establish an interdisciplinary approach to textile design and production within a circular design economy by drawing together biomimetic principles, textile and materials science to advance sustainable state-of-the-art (SoA) methods. Preliminary research identifies the lack of corresponding information between professional design and biology disciplines (Kapsali, PhD 2009). The PI will therefore address cultural and conceptual barriers between these realms by drawing upon a known framework pioneered by Naleway et al. (2015) referred to as 'Biological Structural Design Elements' (BSDEs). BSDEs provide streamlined information on the nature of mechanisms and behaviours presented in various biological materials (including, for example, their toughness and strength) to inform the design and development of composite materials for materials science communities. By adapting the Naleway et al. model, the PI will create a more relevant biomimetic framework specifically for textile design communities. The advantage of the original BSDE system is that it uses visual rather than pure mathematical language, an approach that is accessible to creative communities, to convey SoA structural information on the mechanical and behavioural aspects of biological materials. The PI's aim is to introduce two new BSDEs, based on findings from a series of workshops, for the benefit of textiles designers. The PI will create physical textile demonstrators incorporating the two additional BSDEs, and the demonstrators will then serve as a fundamental tool for the communication, evaluation and assessment of biomimetic principles in textile contexts. The tool itself will be presented to representatives from the applied and industrial textile sectors in the form of three workshops entitled 'Biomimetic Textiles Design and Practice' (BTDP 1-3). Workshop participants will go on to investigate strategies for the application of the BSDEs within textile design processes via interactions with the demonstrators and participatory discussions, practice and theory prototyping. Workshop impact on participants' understanding of biological mechanisms and their own design practice will be assessed via pre- and post-workshop interviews and the setting of a post-workshop design brief. Benchmark criteria for analysis of design outputs will be created from the literature review of biomimetic design, circular design principles and sustainable textile design. The workshop template's evaluation, as a viable tool for disseminating biomimetic approaches to textile design, will be carried out via feedback from individual participant interviews post-workshop, and a presentation to an Advisory Group of industry, academic and policy experts, with a view to evolving a model that can be deployed to a wide range of audiences.