CAREER: Multi-scale Interactions of Waves, Currents and Morphology with Application to Rip Currents

职业：波浪、海流和形态的多尺度相互作用及其在裂流中的应用

• 批准号: 0845957
• 负责人: Walter Robinson
• 金额: $ 56.72万
• 依托单位: North Carolina State University
• 依托单位国家: 美国
• 项目类别: Standard Grant
• 财政年份: 2009
• 资助国家: 美国
• 起止时间: 2009-07-15 至 2015-09-30
• 项目状态: 已结题
• 来源: https://www.nsf.gov/awardsearch/showAward?AWD_ID=0845957&HistoricalAwards=false
• 关键词: CAREER; Multi; scale; Interactions; Waves

0845957 YuThis award is funded under the American Recovery and Reinvestment Act of 2009 (Public Law 111-5).Coastal erosion has increasingly become a concern due to rising global sea levels, changing climate and accelerating human activities. The hydrodynamics in the surf zone has significant influences on nearshore sediment transport, hence shoreline erosion, and on the transport and mixing that affect the water quality in coastal oceans and floodplains. Understanding the complex dynamics of the nearshore system is of fundamental relevance to the development of reliable predictive tools for planning, management and mitigation to build a sustainable and resilient coastal environment. This study aims to improve this understanding by investigating the multi-scale interactions among three key nearshore processes: waves, currents and sediment transport. Rip currents, an important nearshore process, are also a dangerous beach hazard, accounting for 80% of surf zone rescues in the US. Theoretical understanding of their generation mechanisms has not been satisfactory, in particular on beaches lacking alongshore variability. Recent studies have mostly focused on morphodynamic instabilities, stressing the feedback between currents and sediment transport but not fully considering the dynamical interaction between waves and currents. This research will investigate all multi-scale interactions. The research will use extensive linear instability analysis, numerical modeling of the nonlinear multi-scale dynamics, and model validation through comparisons with observations. The methodology developed here will be applicable in modeling other environmental systems including estuaries and floodplains. Research and education will be fostered by developing a graduate research program and curriculum in coastal dynamics and environmental fluid mechanics. This will rejuvenate undergraduate education in fluid mechanics at NC State to stress its role in natural environments. Key concepts of coastal engineering research will be brought into the K-12 science curriculum by direct interaction with teachers through a collaborative initiative. Further broad impacts are expected through the outreach programs of the PI's collaborators, including the National Weather Service, Army Corps of Engineers Field Research Facility, Sea Grant and UNC-Coastal Studies Institute.This project is being co-funded by the Engineering, Geosciences, and Cyber Infrastructure Directorates.

0845957 Yuthis奖是根据2009年的《美国复苏与再投资法》（公法111-5）资助的。由于全球海平面上升，气候变化和加速人类活动，因此越来越多地成为人们关注的问题。冲浪区的流体动力学对近岸沉积物的运输有重大影响，因此，海岸线侵蚀，以及影响沿海海洋和洪泛区水质的运输和混合。了解近岸系统的复杂动态与开发可靠的预测工具的计划，管理和缓解措施以建立可持续且有弹性的沿海环境有关。这项研究旨在通过研究三个关键的近岸过程之间的多尺度相互作用来提高这种理解：波浪，电流和沉积物运输。 Rip Currents是一个重要的近岸工艺，也是一种危险的海滩危险，占美国冲浪区域营救的80％。对其发电机制的理论理解并不令人满意，尤其是在缺乏沿岸变异性的海滩上。最近的研究主要集中在形态动力学不稳定性上，强调了电流和沉积物传输之间的反馈，但没有完全考虑波和电流之间的动态相互作用。这项研究将研究所有多尺度相互作用。该研究将通过与观察值进行比较，使用广泛的线性不稳定性分析，非线性多尺度动力学的数值建模以及模型验证。此处开发的方法将适用于建模其他环境系统，包括河口和洪泛区。研究和教育将通过制定沿海动力学和环境流体力学的研究生研究计划和课程来培养研究和教育。这将使北卡罗来纳州流体力学的本科教育恢复活力，以强调其在自然环境中的作用。沿海工程研究的关键概念将通过与教师的合作计划直接与教师进行互动，将其带入K-12科学课程。通过PI合作者的推广计划，包括国家气象局，陆军工程兵团实地研究机构，SEA Grant和UNC-Coastal研究研究所的外展计划将产生进一步的广泛影响。该项目由工程，地球科学和网络基础设施局共同资助。