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Study on quasi three-dimensional numerical model for nonlinear random waves.

非线性随机波准三维数值模型研究。

基本信息

批准号：
10450180
负责人：
ISOBE Masahiko
金额：
$ 4.03万
依托单位：
University of Tokyo
依托单位国家：
日本
项目类别：
Grant-in-Aid for Scientific Research (B)
财政年份：
1998
资助国家：
日本
起止时间：
1998 至 2000
项目状态：
已结题

来源：
https://kaken.nii.ac.jp/en/grant/KAKENHI-PROJECT-10450180/
关键词：
short-crested random waves nonlinear waves breaking waves short-crested random wave basin numerical model swash zone nonlinear mild-slope equations 非線形性海浜流多方向不規則造波装置鉛直断面分布戻り流れ水槽実験

项目摘要

In this study, a numerical model of nonlinear, random wave transformation in the vertical two dimensions is developed first. The basic equations of the model are the nonlinear mild-slope equations proposed by Isobe (1994), and an efficient numerical algorithm is developed in addition to the boundary condition at the wave generator which can generate long waves as well. A moving boundary is installed to deal with the wave motion in the surf zone. By integrating these factors, a numerical model is proposed to predict the profile, velocity and turbulence of random waves on a general topography from deep to shallow water. A two dimensional experiment is performed to develop and verify the numerical model by measuring the wave field including the swash zone.Next, the breaking criteria of short-crested random waves is studied to incorporate with a three dimensional numerical model for random waves. A short-crested random wave basin is developed to reproduce short-crested random wave fields. The wave generator is more sophisticated than existing ones, with a stable feed back system to absorb reflected waves. Data for the breaking criteria are obtained by experiments by this wave basin.To develop a quasi-three dimensional numerical model of nonlinear random waves, numerical models of wave transformation are developed based on the nonlinear mild-slope equations and Boussinesq equations. These models are verified by applying to the wave diffraction and run-up problems. By combining the Boussinesq equations model with a model to predict the vertical velocity distribution due to undertow, a quasi-three dimensional numerical model of nonlinear random waves is developed.

在这项研究中，非线性，随机波变换的数值模型在垂直的二维发展。模型的基本方程是Isobe（1994）提出的非线性缓坡方程，并在造波机处设置了边界条件，同时也设置了一个有效的数值算法。在碎波带中设置了一个动边界来处理波浪的运动。通过综合这些因素，提出了一个数值模式来预测从深水到浅水的一般地形上的随机波浪的剖面、速度和湍流度。通过二维波浪试验验证了数值模型的正确性，并对短峰随机波的破碎准则进行了研究，并将其与三维随机波数值模型相结合。为了再现短峰随机波场，建立了短峰随机波水池。波发生器比现有的更复杂，具有稳定的反馈系统来吸收反射波。为了建立准三维非线性随机波浪的数值模型，基于非线性缓坡方程和Boussinesq方程建立了波浪变形的数值模型。通过应用于波浪绕射和爬高问题，对模型进行了验证。将Boussinesq方程模型与底流垂向流速分布模型相结合，建立了准三维非线性随机波浪数值模型。